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Should come up, does it lift at all or does it just twist?
I found the center hidden bolt. Leave it to ford to make just that one an allen wrench bolt.
I had to sacrifice an old allen wrench, and tape it inside a socket with a few extensions to get it.
I was certain that the plenum never came off, but apparently it did, and the first guy replaced two injectors, but.......
He didn't bother to replace the gasket!!!
When I pulled the plenum up, the gasket was in a mess of crispy pieces.
What to do now?
I'm certain with that gasket trashed there had to be some intake leakage.
Would that make the engine act like it did in the video?
While I'm here, should I go ahead and replace all of the injectors or what?
What else should I do at this point?
The only thing I managed to kill was this crispy little green hose.
Probably wouldn't hurt to get a cheap vacuum tester from the discount auto store. Unmetered air can cause issues, but not sure that it's solely responsible. While you're in there check the resistance on all the injectors. Those crimp type butt splice connectors work, but I don't trust them with anything critical. It's too easy to get a bad crimp or cut the wire inside. Solder and heat shrink is the way to go. I'd probably trust a wire nut more. I'm not saying they will cause an issue. Just don't have great luck with them myself.
I'm going to do the ohm readings on the injectors.
If all's good there, then I'll replace the plenum gasket and put it all back together.
Then I guess I go from there.
3 rules to troubleshoot anything.
1 Do the easiest/simplest/most obvious thing first.
2 Never trust the last guy to work on it, even(especially) if that guy was you.
3 90% of problems are human error.
Looking at rules two and three, even if the injectors all test fine, verify the injectors that got replaced were wired correctly.
As I sit pondering this whole thing....
Guy #2 said a few of the cylinders were flooding.
I'm doubting that a leaking air intake would cause this. Maybe it would?
Flooding in my mind would be from an injector firing when it's not supposed to, or a plug not firing.
Of course I'll need to pull the plugs, and check the firing order.
How would one go about making sure the two new injectors were wired correctly?
I suppose I could try to take readings from the others and check that they match.
Speaking to the issue of rough running between the fire and mechanic Billy, something not yet touched on. In the proximity of the fire, there are only a few wires to be found. The wires to the fuel injectors and only one other, the single, black wire to the O2 sensor.
Just because a wire is burnt, that doesn't necessarily mean that it is shorted or open. Worth a glance though.
Also, do you know if the green vacuum line to the egr valve has been broken all along? If it has, and the system is otherwise functional, it can cause a cascading power loss cycle with overheating, lean burning and timing retarding. All conditions exacerbating the others in a downward spiral. Especially under the call for more power when climbing the grade you speak of. A vacuum leak alone can trigger a similar cycle.
You do really need the computer codes here.
And don't be intimidated by the fuel injection. It's not mysterious, not fragile and it has gotten the truck from A to B a lot longer than a un-maintained carb ever would have.
Speaking to the issue of rough running between the fire and mechanic Billy, something not yet touched on. In the proximity of the fire, there are only a few wires to be found. The wires to the fuel injectors and only one other, the single, black wire to the O2 sensor.
Just because a wire is burnt, that doesn't necessarily mean that it is shorted or open. Worth a glance though.
Also, do you know if the green vacuum line to the egr valve has been broken all along? If it has, and the system is otherwise functional, it can cause a cascading power loss cycle with overheating, lean burning and timing retarding. All conditions exacerbating the others in a downward spiral. Especially under the call for more power when climbing the grade you speak of. A vacuum leak alone can trigger a similar cycle.
You do really need the computer codes here.
And don't be intimidated by the fuel injection. It's not mysterious, not fragile and it has gotten the truck from A to B a lot longer than a un-maintained carb ever would have.
Thank you.
It's only intimidating because it's unfamiliar.
I'm pretty certain that I snapped the green vacuum line when I pulled it off.
I'm going to see if I can repair the connection.
If not I'll trace it down and see if I can replace it when I run to town for the plenum gasket.
But first I'm going to put on ohm meter to the injectors, just to verify.
Since it's a 100 mile RT to the parts store, I'd rather get everything I need in as few of trips as possible.
I was thinking about the injectors wiring. I was expecting to see different color wires from the harness, maybe the end did get damaged and one of your mechanics replaced the wires. Injector should have a + and - on it. Maybe unwrap some of the tape around the wires to the injectors just before the ones that got replaced and trace the wires. I'll see if I can't find a decent picture and a wiring diagram to go with it.
Checked the ohms on the injectors.
They're all 14.5 except 1 @14.8 but I doubt that's any big deal.
The new injectors are wired the same as the others with the red on the left and black on the right.
First picture:
What is this friggistat?
It's the thing the snapped green little hose connects to.
Is that maybe part of the smog control system?
It seems like some sort of blowby something or other.
It connects to the gizmotron in pic 2 depicted by the arrow.
If it's all to do with the smog set up, then it probably doesn't matter since the smog pump isn't inline anyways.
Yes bolted to the plenum.
Do I need any of this?
I don't have to worry about emissions here.
I can't just say yes or no. What I will say is your truck is computer controlled, and it relies on lots of sensors and is turned to run with all of that functional. It's not uncommon to lose just a portion of that system and your fuel economy and power drop way off because the computer is in limp home mode. I'm not an expert and I like to keep my vehicles whole. But I'm pretty sure you can remove all of it and reprogram the computer to do without it.
I can't just say yes or no. What I will say is your truck is computer controlled, and it relies on lots of sensors and is turned to run with all of that functional. It's not uncommon to lose just a portion of that system and your fuel economy and power drop way off because the computer is in limp home mode. I'm not an expert and I like to keep my vehicles whole. But I'm pretty sure you can remove all of it and reprogram the computer to do without it.
Well, I need some definitive answers here, because to go replacing crispy broken lines that don't do anything is going to be a waste of my time and money, and maybe just enough to make me close the hood on this thing and sell it as is.
Well, I need some definitive answers here, because to go replacing crispy broken lines that don't do anything is going to be a waste of my time and money, and maybe just enough to make me close the hood on this thing and sell it as is.
