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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 10:47 AM
  #1  
Boondockdad's Avatar
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Crazy electrical problem

It's probably easier just to look at the video than describe what it's doing.

Also, there's a 30A charger on it while this is happening.

video

2003 Ford E-350
7.3L PSD automatic
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:00 PM
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Looks like a pretty classic battery terminal or ground issue. The voltage on the gauge is irrelevant due to the charger.

What have you done to diagnose so far?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:11 PM
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It was doing something similar day before yesterday. Checked the starter relay and noticed the nuts were loose on both lugs. Tightened them down with locktite. Started fine after that. Now this.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:16 PM
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Nothing crazy here. The pulse of the dashlights is directly related to the Charger you have hooked up.

To test the theory, disconnect both batteries and charge them 2 amp until full.

Clean every ground and positive terminal right down to the starter.

After the batteries are fully charged, have them load tested.

I agree with ICE above, it's free, easy, and after the procedure you'll be shocked at how much faster it spins up and it will make life easier on every electrical component on the truck.

Denny
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:21 PM
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Not sure if locktite is a good thing to use on electrical connections, might be an insulator. Maybe want to remove those connections, clean really good then reinstall.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:32 PM
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I'm wondering if he can disconnect them without destroying the relay at this point.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019 | 01:46 PM
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no locktite on relays, please.

You said it was running. Still flashy lights with charger unhook?

Why are you charging your batteries? Time to test each battery individual (unhooked) with a bubble tester and load tester?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2019 | 10:21 AM
  #8  
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When you find a loose connection that's causing issues you should remove and clean it instead of just tightening it down, there's often corrosion and/or some burning that'll keep it from having a good connection even when tightened. I've actually seen where a connection gets worse after being tightened.

And the locktite was a bad idea, it's very likely to insulate. Start at that relay, it might be all that's wrong.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2019 | 01:55 PM
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You guys nailed it.
I was a little sceptical about locktite being the problem since it started fine after the application, but it must have become an insulator once it fully cured.

Disconnected, cleaned with POR15 cleaner, sandpaper and brass brush. 9mm bore brush also helpful on the nuts. Also cleaned the ground point on the body that connects directly to the neg battery cable. That was heavily corroded. Battery posts and lugs. Everything was shiney enough to eat off of. Started right up.

thanks all

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