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Old May 5, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #1  
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From: so calif
Unhappy Starting problems


91 f-250 5.8L 3/4ton custom

Could not start 1 day , starter solenoid just clicking. Tried jumping
thinking battery may be low, not problem; checked and cleaned all starter , relay, batt, connections including grounds. still same thing, relay just thunking, not the kind when you have loose connections which is real fast but just one clunk? Bought new relay same problem, bought new starter, same problem, and finally bought brand new die hard battery but it just still does same thing? I checked neutral/park switch on column and thats fine!
I can start by grounding the solenoid, so is it the " S " terminal wire maybe to the ignition? I'd appreciate any help. alternator checks fine,
turns off fine, ignition light comes on when I TURN KEY TO ON POSITION.

Thanks,
T.A.R.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2004 | 08:58 PM
  #2  
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Dealford
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I've seen this many times. Only once I used my booster cables to by-pass the pos. lead from the battery to the starter and had the car start just fine. Some others would only start with cable by-pass AND jumping the solenoid.
It would be great to learn if there's a secret here. Like something to do with the small wire lead?
The single, loud click that's not a locked starter because jumping the solenoid will run the starter perfectly.
AL.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 04:09 PM
  #3  
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Dealford
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Question

Anyone ever figure this one out?
AL.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 09:02 PM
  #4  
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This would be fairly simple to figure out if you had a testlight or better yet a voltmeter.





Put the negative of the meter or testlight on point #2.

Put the positive of the meter or testlight on point #1.

Try to start the engine, while watching the meter or testlight. If the voltage drops below 8 volts, or the testlight dims way down, then the battery is bad.

Leave the negative of the meter on #2, and put the positive of the meter on point #3. Try to start the truck. If the voltage drops, then the short positive battery lead is bad.

Leave the negative of the meter on #2, and test points #6 and #7. If you get a voltage drop on a point, then the problem is upstream of that point.

If all these tests show no significant voltage drop, then put the positive of the testlight or meter on point #1 and leave it there. Put the negative of the testlight or meter a clean place on the engine block. Try to start the truck. If you get a big voltage drop, then the problem is at point #2 or point #4.

If you do not get a big voltage drop here, then somehow try to hook the negative of the testlight or meter on the case of the starter, and then try the test again with the test lead positive still on the battery positive. If you get a large voltage drop, then the starter does not have good contact with the bellhousing. I had this happen to me once. I had just replaced an engine that was very leaky and grimey, and I didn't clean the mounting area off good enough when I replaced the starter.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2004 | 08:36 AM
  #5  
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Franklin2’s explanation and diagram would make an excellent job aid for anyone trouble shooting a starting problem. I would suggest that his answer be imported into a “sticky” thread.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #6  
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Dealford
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Thumbs up Start a Technical Information Page

Franklin2 has provided so many diagrams with bang on instructions!
A Tech. Info. Sticky that includes the entire thread on each topic would be great reading for anyone looking for answers. Especially ones that end like this one with grime/corrosion where the starter mounts to the bellhousing.
AL.
 
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