Hello all
my name is Jason
first time to any threads or forums and first time owning a 460

I do apologize if this has been asked and if it has please just point me in correct direction to read that thread

Bought this truck in October had a rear main seal leak. I’ve done a million in my lifetime so I figured what’s one more

found out that you have to pull the engine to do this. Being lazy and not wanting to do this in the garage I brought it to a buddy recommended shop. First mistake smh...

2 months later I get a picture of the engine with heads and intake off saying there’s to much sludge and they won’t put it back together without a full rebuild for $4800! I asked why the heads were even off. “You have to take head off to do rear main on this truck”. I swear he said that to me!! I laughed at him and told him to Foff and picked my truck up and engine in a million pieces.

then the fun began. While I was there I bought a full engine rebuild kit from summit. Ended up only reusing the crank, block, rods and heads. Everything else is brand new.

got her set in the truck the other day and went to start it..

Extremely rough idle as if it was missing a cylinder shut it off to check

135-140 psi on every cylinder
new injectors are spraying proper
plug wires are new and plugs definitely work. (My dad Accidentally cranked it over while I was holding the plug and my ***** was on the metal bumper).... yeah it works! Lmao

set timing to approx 13 degrees got it to idle fine but trying to rev it just stumbles over itself bad! But here’s the kicker. It will rev and run good for 20 seconds then go back to this stumbling bumbling state

thought maybe MAF so I unplugged it to (bypass it) and same thing. This process did work diagnosing wife’s 2001 4Runner. Unplugged maf and it ran great replaced and it was fixed. So let me know if this is same scenario for the fords too

also after about 20 min of revving in driveway now I have lifter chatter?? Very intermittent too. If it was only high rpm I would say oil pump was starving it. But when the truck decides to idle and rev proper there is no chatter.
Or is that the reason it starts chattering because they are getting starved and then by getting starved they are not opening and closing the valve a properly causing it to buck like that and feel like it’s missing a cylinder
Now it just seems like it’s chattering the whole time. Idling for 5 min and it’s chattering never went away
Do I need to just blow out all that assembly lube?? Is it making it stick??

ant thoughts for me Thanks in advance


Best regards

yes sir sir as best I know how.
I hand tightened all bolts
I set each cylinder TDC and made sure that the lifter was not on the cam
lobe at all then torqued to factory specs. All getting 1/2 turn give or take to reach torque specs 20 ft pounds I believe

checked oil psi it sits pretty steady at 50 psi. Bought a real Guage and Plugged it into the back where the factory sensor used to be. It is 100 percent mechanical. So the pressure showing has to be right. Pulled the lifters a few are frozen (will not compress with my finger tip inside pressing on it. Called summit and am returning them. Bought lunati lifters this time got them today. Hopefully that was all it was!

What did the bottom of the lifters look like. If there is any sign of galling then you will have to replace the cam also. As stated before use a high zinc break in oil. Follow break in procedure from cam manufacturer.