Upgrading 2001 7.3 Excursion
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
You will never get EGT through the OBDII or the computer on the truck. There is no sensor for it. You have to install that sensor yourself, along with fuel pressure. You can get the trans. temp from the computer. Boost is offered through the MAP PID, but it is not super accurate...especially if you go with a turbo that puts out more than 23 psi.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
You will never get EGT through the OBDII or the computer on the truck. There is no sensor for it. You have to install that sensor yourself, along with fuel pressure. You can get the trans. temp from the computer. Boost is offered through the MAP PID, but it is not super accurate...especially if you go with a turbo that puts out more than 23 psi.
I bought the EGT sensor when I bought the edge gauge. Just need to install the sensor when I get all these upgrades figured out.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
I’ve been pleased with my MBRP 4” aluminized kit, only gripe is a drone at 55-60mph but then dies off. Otherwise a good choice. I rebuilt and upgraded the gtp38 turbo and wish I would have saved my few hundred bucks toward an sxe/T4 setup. I’ve been happy with the unloaded performance gains of the ww2 and fresh rebuild but will soon be upgrading to the borg Warner
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
I agree about the trans pan...it will only get you more fluid capacity which somewhat helps, but the 6.0l trans cooler in conjunction with the pre radiator cooler will be best. Relative to the 4" aluminum or stainless...unless you're planning some future upgrades, the stock exhaust is fine as long as you get an open type muffler. However, I would definitely upgrade to stainless if you are somewhere up north where salt gets laid down on the roads during the winter.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles county
I got the diamond eye 4" down-pipe back exhaust and added a 4040 jones (aka aeroturbine) muffler to it and i'm more then happy with the sound and performance. No drone at all in my X. The turbo whistle is there but not obnoxiously loud. I have heard the XL series on another application and I didn't like how bassy it sounded at around 60-70 mph. My X is relatively quiet at 65-75 at cruising speed when the RPM's are low and loud when I put the hammer down.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Well, I ended up finally getting to do some upgrades after a great camping trip gone wrong. All of the sudden I started spewing oil and I didn't even know where to begin to look. Had to have the Excursion and travel trailer towed home 175 miles... Not very fun. Found out it was a bolt that backed out from the HPOP and started leaking into the valley of the engine and started to run down the back side making it look like a rear main seal leak.
I ended up getting the MBRP Stainless 4" turbo back exhaust and a PHP Hydra chip for now since it was in the shop and the wife gave me the green light to get it the way I wanted it. I am literally on the edge of my seat waiting for something else to go wrong with this rig. Is there anything I need to do, take it to someone to have them look over everything and make sure it is good to go? I feel like I need to have and extra sensor for everything, a gallon of oil, power steering fluid... everything extra when I take it camping just in case... I bought the 7.3 because of its reliability, maybe I just bought one that wasn't taken care of very well before me.
I ended up getting the MBRP Stainless 4" turbo back exhaust and a PHP Hydra chip for now since it was in the shop and the wife gave me the green light to get it the way I wanted it. I am literally on the edge of my seat waiting for something else to go wrong with this rig. Is there anything I need to do, take it to someone to have them look over everything and make sure it is good to go? I feel like I need to have and extra sensor for everything, a gallon of oil, power steering fluid... everything extra when I take it camping just in case... I bought the 7.3 because of its reliability, maybe I just bought one that wasn't taken care of very well before me.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
I must have missed it if you mentioned the mileage, but even if low, there are many years on the seals, o-rings, and pressure lines. Extra MOTORCRAFT sensors are smart to have on hand.
This thread has already visited the transmission and gauges, no need to reiterate.
Some common issues are:
Turbo pedestal o-rings (good time to put in an aftermarket wheel and rebuild the turbo if you want to)
EBPV o-ring (some simply delete the EBPV)
EBP tube and sensor caked up with soot (clean or replace if keeping EBPV)
HPOP lines (replace)
HPOP o-rings (rebuild or replace HPOP)
Fuel bowl (rebuild) - check pressure with gauge, rebuild FPR if required
Passenger's side fuel line (chafes on retainer bracket, replace and re-insulate bracket)
Belts, coolant hoses, complete coolant flush with proper coolant
Power steering/Hydo-boost pressure hoses
Check/clean/grease all grounds
Fuel tank mods (Hutch/Harpoon) - many add a pre-pump filter at this juncture
I'm sure others will chime in with their advice, I'm probably forgetting a thing or two... but I think these are the "big chunks" that will net improved confidence.
This thread has already visited the transmission and gauges, no need to reiterate.
Some common issues are:
Turbo pedestal o-rings (good time to put in an aftermarket wheel and rebuild the turbo if you want to)
EBPV o-ring (some simply delete the EBPV)
EBP tube and sensor caked up with soot (clean or replace if keeping EBPV)
HPOP lines (replace)
HPOP o-rings (rebuild or replace HPOP)
Fuel bowl (rebuild) - check pressure with gauge, rebuild FPR if required
Passenger's side fuel line (chafes on retainer bracket, replace and re-insulate bracket)
Belts, coolant hoses, complete coolant flush with proper coolant
Power steering/Hydo-boost pressure hoses
Check/clean/grease all grounds
Fuel tank mods (Hutch/Harpoon) - many add a pre-pump filter at this juncture
I'm sure others will chime in with their advice, I'm probably forgetting a thing or two... but I think these are the "big chunks" that will net improved confidence.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
I must have missed it if you mentioned the mileage, but even if low, there are many years on the seals, o-rings, and pressure lines. Extra MOTORCRAFT sensors are smart to have on hand.
This thread has already visited the transmission and gauges, no need to reiterate.
Some common issues are:
Turbo pedestal o-rings (good time to put in an aftermarket wheel and rebuild the turbo if you want to)
EBPV o-ring (some simply delete the EBPV)
EBP tube and sensor caked up with soot (clean or replace if keeping EBPV)
HPOP lines (replace)
HPOP o-rings (rebuild or replace HPOP)
Fuel bowl (rebuild) - check pressure with gauge, rebuild FPR if required
Passenger's side fuel line (chafes on retainer bracket, replace and re-insulate bracket)
Belts, coolant hoses, complete coolant flush with proper coolant
Power steering/Hydo-boost pressure hoses
Check/clean/grease all grounds
Fuel tank mods (Hutch/Harpoon) - many add a pre-pump filter at this juncture
I'm sure others will chime in with their advice, I'm probably forgetting a thing or two... but I think these are the "big chunks" that will net improved confidence.
This thread has already visited the transmission and gauges, no need to reiterate.
Some common issues are:
Turbo pedestal o-rings (good time to put in an aftermarket wheel and rebuild the turbo if you want to)
EBPV o-ring (some simply delete the EBPV)
EBP tube and sensor caked up with soot (clean or replace if keeping EBPV)
HPOP lines (replace)
HPOP o-rings (rebuild or replace HPOP)
Fuel bowl (rebuild) - check pressure with gauge, rebuild FPR if required
Passenger's side fuel line (chafes on retainer bracket, replace and re-insulate bracket)
Belts, coolant hoses, complete coolant flush with proper coolant
Power steering/Hydo-boost pressure hoses
Check/clean/grease all grounds
Fuel tank mods (Hutch/Harpoon) - many add a pre-pump filter at this juncture
I'm sure others will chime in with their advice, I'm probably forgetting a thing or two... but I think these are the "big chunks" that will net improved confidence.
Fuel Pump
Transmission
Entire front axle rebuild all seals and wheel bearings
Ball joints
I know all of these issues are from lack of maintenance from previous owner but its getting to be a head ache and a lot of money. I appreciate the feed back and will start looking into replacing these items. I want to have confidence in it and just have an issue free vehicle.
Is there a way to hook it up to a computer and give it a diagnostics run through or will it only tell me something if it has thrown a code?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
I can remember the days when everything you listed except the transmission was due every 30k miles. These trucks are not Toyotas, but they aren't as bad as the older stuff. Yeah, they're spendy to repair and upgrade, but they're made pretty stout and that costs money.
Yes, there is a TON of data you can monitor through the OBD port. Many people use Torque Pro and/or Forscan (very inexpensive or free, depending on platform) along with a compatible OBDII adapter. My advice is to download both, go to their websites, and check out the adapters they recommend. Hopefully someone here will chime in with a recent purchase that works, our trucks are a little picky on what adapters they're compatible with so be careful.
Yes, there is a TON of data you can monitor through the OBD port. Many people use Torque Pro and/or Forscan (very inexpensive or free, depending on platform) along with a compatible OBDII adapter. My advice is to download both, go to their websites, and check out the adapters they recommend. Hopefully someone here will chime in with a recent purchase that works, our trucks are a little picky on what adapters they're compatible with so be careful.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Miles mean a lot, but TIME will always be a factor on any soft parts (rubber, seals, plastic, engine o-rings, etc). 19 years is a lot of time on the road, and I don't think any auto manufacturing company banks on their vehicles going the distance like ours have. It is far cheaper to fix the issues with mine than to buy something newer and make that monthly payment.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Yup, I’d rather have the occasional expense fixing then a monthly payment on a new one.
My bro just bought a 2019 F250, I hate to think of what the repairs will be like on that in 18 years, way to computerized.
My bro just bought a 2019 F250, I hate to think of what the repairs will be like on that in 18 years, way to computerized.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
I get it, it's just frustrating. I came from a 2016 Toyota Tundra that I bought new and apparently got used to having a new vehicle. Then buying a 18 year old vehicle expecting the same results isn't quite realistic. I love everything about it except I just need to gain that confidence while on the road.
I will look to keep replacing items and upgrading through out the rest of the summer since we have camping trips planned through the summer.
I will look to keep replacing items and upgrading through out the rest of the summer since we have camping trips planned through the summer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
be careful with the term “upgrading”. very few aftermarket parts are as high quality as oem ford motorcraft.
more times then not i see people say they are “upgrading” when in fact they are installing lower quality parts then what came stock. a first clue a good test is if it costs less then the part from motorcraft it likely a lower quality part. there are obviously exceptions to that test but not many
more times then not i see people say they are “upgrading” when in fact they are installing lower quality parts then what came stock. a first clue a good test is if it costs less then the part from motorcraft it likely a lower quality part. there are obviously exceptions to that test but not many
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