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Finished this today for some small parts. It’s only 10’ x 4’ but I can easily move the walls add a couple more sections and box in the entire truck when I am ready to paint it I have furnace filters for the two fans. One fan blowing in, one fan blowing out. I made a paint booth out of pvc pipe and plastic sheeting when I painted my tractors but I needed something bigger for the truck. This one has 4 100 watt bulbs for lighting. Probably should go with fluorescent lights. I got the doors all torn apart last week. Sanded today. They are ready for paint to. I need to hang them somehow in the booth. I think a 2x4 over the top of the walls and a wire for each door.
Incandescent and fluroscent lighting in a paint booth is a big no-no unless they have explosion proof fixtures. Don't want you to go "BOOM".
Best economical alternative is LED lighting, and there are no guarantees with that either. And you would want the exhaust fan to be in the overhead anyway.
Use a fixture in the ceiling that sits flush with the ceiling. Not explosion proof but gets most of the heat and electrical connections out of the space. Like this one:
Wouldn't you want your inlet and outlet fans separated? Seems in this set up you are going to be blowing back in everything you just exhausted? I think someone mentioned have the exhaust out the top.
x2 on the fans, the further apart the better the air filtration. Hopefully the outgoing is headed toward the outside, meaning not in an enclosed garage which has its own issue like flame from waterheaters etc....
Nice clean area to work in. From what little experience I have in painting I would agree with the others on fans and lights but would not have a fan blowing into the work space as it will stir up any dust particles that are in the paint booth as well as introduce dust into the booth.
There are some great painters on the forum and all have helpful advice. Only wish I was that far along.
Good luck.
When I painted my Fairlane in my garage, I had installed a gable fan in the wall as an exhaust. I had good airflow so a buildup of explosive gases wasn't a problem.
I agree with the other comments regarding fan placement...a push-pull configuration works better, leaves less area in the booth for air to get trapped.
I would not be concerned about explosive gases, I have conducted many tests and using open flames I have never been able to cause a combustive reaction using automotive paints in a closed area...just not enough fuel in the fuel/air mix to permit combustion.
Here is a pic of a nice door stand should you choose to build one...
Great looking paint booth. I agree, don't think there are enough explosive particles in paint to combust a explosion. Just my two cents. I would make both fans exhaust, it will pull air out from somewhere. I think most modern paint booths are down drafts now so I would leave them low.
Ok, so nobody seems to be concerned about the concentration of fumes and vapors, I guess that's why every real paint booth I've ever seen that has vapor tight/explosion proof fixtures and waterfall exhaust scrubbers is just plain stupid. "Here, hold my beer and watch this", "It'll be fine, I'm just going to do it once", "I didn't know the gun was loaded".
Ok, so nobody seems to be concerned about the concentration of fumes and vapors, I guess that's why every real paint booth I've ever seen that has vapor tight/explosion proof fixtures and waterfall exhaust scrubbers is just plain stupid. "Here, hold my beer and watch this", "It'll be fine, I'm just going to do it once", "I didn't know the gun was loaded".
^^^overreaction fear mongering at its finest.
Our old paint booth at my dads body shop had none of that. It had fluorescent ceiling fixtures flush mounted in the walls. It had a fan only on the discharge end and filtration at the other end.
The 5 year old commercial paint booth I was in on Monday may have had class 1 div 2 lights (I didn’t pay attention) but certainly didn’t have a waterfall exhaust scrubber.
The commercial paint shops I have been in had large filters built into the big bay doors for intake, and large filters that covered the exhaust ducts so nothing went out. As for the lighting in the shop I don't remember about what they had for that. No roof scrubbers though.
^^^overreaction fear mongering at its finest. That's why they paid me the big bucks to chair the safety committee at work.
Have you ever painted a car? The first car I spray painted was with single part fleet enamel on a '37 Plymouth coupe in an open garage with an Electrolux vacuum cleaner spray attachment. That was 1952. No fans, no masks, no hat. A friend held my beer, but I had the ability to learn.
But I suppose it also depends on what type of paint you plan on using, and whether it is considered toxic or not.
Just because "We've always done it that way", doesn't mean you're doing it correctly or safely.
Abstract
Mainly in the car industry, many electrostatic spraying installations are at present being converted to use water-based paints. This will involve considerable advantages in the field of fire and explosion protection, if the water-based paints used can be considered non flammable when sprayed. To investigate this question, the burning behavior of more than 120 electrostatically sprayed water-based paints, which consist of flammable resins and possibly flammable pigments suspended in mixtures of flammable water-soluble organic solvents and water, was tested under practical conditions. Investigations on flushing liquids (solvents) were also included. The paints were sprayed using high rotation bell-type sprayers. While the majority of commercially available water-based paints proved to be non-flammable when sprayed, a number of paints turned out to be flammable. Recipe ranges are stated in the form of an easy numerical equation which delimits the different burning behaviors. It was found, that the flammability limit of the multiphase paint system is simply related to the flammability limits of its binary subsystems water/combustible solids and water/combustible liquids in an additive manner.
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