engine knock
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engine knock
I just bought a '78 ford F-100 with an original 300. It knocks quite a bit. It's been suggested to me to add a quart of tranny fluid to the oil when changing the oil and it will fix the knocking.
Has anyone else had this experience?
Has anyone else had this experience?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Re: engine knock
Welcome to FTE!!
How long had it sat before moving it? A few years? I would not add auto tranny fluid to the engine oil anyway. If there's a light tap, like lifters or something, it could just go away with normal driving.
If it has not setup for long then there's really nothing you can do except change the worn parts. Don't fall prey to quick fixes or to myths that could cause further damage.
Originally posted by cobden
I just bought a '78 ford F-100 with an original 300.
I just bought a '78 ford F-100 with an original 300.
If it has not setup for long then there's really nothing you can do except change the worn parts. Don't fall prey to quick fixes or to myths that could cause further damage.
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Thanks for the info. I don't know a lot about the engine. The old tiger I bought it from has told me a few doozies that I am now realizing. To be more specific, the nise is a loud "ticking" that does not go away when the engine warms up. He said it was professionally rebuilt a number of years back, and I know he didn't put many miles on it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Can you tell if its an upper or lower engine tap/knock?
Another thing - if its an auto tranny - I have heard torque converters make a knocking sound if the bolts are loose at the flywheel
Has he got some kind of invoice or other document stating when and by whom it was rebuilt? Could just be a partial overhaul.
Another thing - if its an auto tranny - I have heard torque converters make a knocking sound if the bolts are loose at the flywheel
Has he got some kind of invoice or other document stating when and by whom it was rebuilt? Could just be a partial overhaul.
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I'll have a listen tonight and see if I can tell where the noise is coming from.
It shouldn't be the bolts on the torque converter. The rear main was leaking oil, and I fixed it. When I was in there I changed the Fly wheel. It ticked before the repairs, and it ticked after.
As for receipts, no can do. I bought it (fairly cheap) without driving it because it wasn't licensed. When getting it saftied I found out what his version of new brakes were. It needed everything. I then called him and he told me he put new pads on six years ago (onto rotors that were shot then). Needless to say we have different opinions of what "new" is, and I learned my lesson.
It shouldn't be the bolts on the torque converter. The rear main was leaking oil, and I fixed it. When I was in there I changed the Fly wheel. It ticked before the repairs, and it ticked after.
As for receipts, no can do. I bought it (fairly cheap) without driving it because it wasn't licensed. When getting it saftied I found out what his version of new brakes were. It needed everything. I then called him and he told me he put new pads on six years ago (onto rotors that were shot then). Needless to say we have different opinions of what "new" is, and I learned my lesson.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Let us know.
In case you don't know: You can use a 2 ft length of old water hose or a screwdriver to listen for the tap/knock. Put your ear to one end of the hose while searching with the other - I prefer this method
Or with the BIG screwdriver: You can put the handle end to your ear and search with the working end.
Just don't let that working end get caught in a pulley - it doesn't look natural walking around with a screwdriver sticking out of your head!
In case you don't know: You can use a 2 ft length of old water hose or a screwdriver to listen for the tap/knock. Put your ear to one end of the hose while searching with the other - I prefer this method
Or with the BIG screwdriver: You can put the handle end to your ear and search with the working end.
Just don't let that working end get caught in a pulley - it doesn't look natural walking around with a screwdriver sticking out of your head!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
Yeah, the ol' Mechanics Stethescope (sp?). The hose is a much better idea as it flexes instead of getting jammed into your skull.
When listening for the noise, try to tell if it's a knock or a tick. Knocking sounds deeper like smacking the block with a hammer, where ticking sounds more like hitting it with a screwdriver.
Knocking is bad. Bad, like main or rod bearings. Ticking is usually not so bad like lifters or valves. Could be oil pump too.
Let us know what you find.
Kevin K.
When listening for the noise, try to tell if it's a knock or a tick. Knocking sounds deeper like smacking the block with a hammer, where ticking sounds more like hitting it with a screwdriver.
Knocking is bad. Bad, like main or rod bearings. Ticking is usually not so bad like lifters or valves. Could be oil pump too.
Let us know what you find.
Kevin K.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Montana
adjust your valve springs? mine did the same thing and finally one broke so i adjusted both sides then it purred like a kitten. don't know if that would be it, just a suggestion.
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All,
A leaky exhaust manifold can deliver a "tick" just like a valve.
Inspect the exhaust manifold for signs of carbon build up(black stain). This is where it leaking at.
If it is a lifter, automatic tranny fluid can "unstick it" for you. This is not a "cure all" though. If the motor has worn rings you may very well burn your motor up. Automatic tranny fluid burns at a lower temp than motor oil and if it leaks by the rings it will burn behind the ring thereby turning to carbon. This binds the ring and can seize the piston, in worst cases. It's very interesting to pull one apart and see the damage, especially when its not mine!
Good Luck,
KingFisher
A leaky exhaust manifold can deliver a "tick" just like a valve.
Inspect the exhaust manifold for signs of carbon build up(black stain). This is where it leaking at.
If it is a lifter, automatic tranny fluid can "unstick it" for you. This is not a "cure all" though. If the motor has worn rings you may very well burn your motor up. Automatic tranny fluid burns at a lower temp than motor oil and if it leaks by the rings it will burn behind the ring thereby turning to carbon. This binds the ring and can seize the piston, in worst cases. It's very interesting to pull one apart and see the damage, especially when its not mine!
Good Luck,
KingFisher
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The valve springs sounds interesting, and makes sense too. Others have suggested lifters too. I'll try and find out exactly where the tick is coming from and go from there. Thanks a lot for all your input.
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