Brake question....
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More Turbo
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Brake question....
Truck is right at 100k miles. Brakes were replaced around 68k miles. Pedal is feeling a bit mushy (have to press further down). Not sure if brake fluid has ever been changed. Also how long do brakes last on these trucks? Never tow anything. Just daily driver. Was going to bleed the brake system with the brake pump way starting with Rear Passenger, Rear Driver, Front Passenger and then Front Driver while keeping an eye out on the reservoir. I also learned that the power steering pump shares fluid with the brake booster? Is this right? If so do I need to replace the PS fluid as well?
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Its a good idea to change the brake fluid when replacing brakes. Mushy pedal can also indicate a master cylinder starting to go, or flexible brake lines starting to give. A little early for that at 100K miles though, but it's something to check.
Some good threads here on changing your PS fluid too. Yes, the PS pump supplies hydraulic power to the brake booster (hydro boost) instead of vacuum on these trucks.
Some good threads here on changing your PS fluid too. Yes, the PS pump supplies hydraulic power to the brake booster (hydro boost) instead of vacuum on these trucks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
Brake fluid is hydroscopic and easily absorbs water from the humidity in the atmosphere, once water is in your brake lines the little bit of water right at the brake caliper will boil off under hard breaking, now you have steam in your brake line and caliper. Of course Steam compresses but more so when it cools it leaves air in your brake system.
this is why manufactures recommend to flush the fluid every 2 years.
also... many trucks go 70k on the OEM brakes.
this is why manufactures recommend to flush the fluid every 2 years.
also... many trucks go 70k on the OEM brakes.
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More Turbo
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Brake fluid is hydroscopic and easily absorbs water from the humidity in the atmosphere, once water is in your brake lines the little bit of water right at the brake caliper will boil off under hard breaking, now you have steam in your brake line and caliper. Of course Steam compresses but more so when it cools it leaves air in your brake system.
this is why manufactures recommend to flush the fluid every 2 years.
also... many trucks go 70k on the OEM brakes.
this is why manufactures recommend to flush the fluid every 2 years.
also... many trucks go 70k on the OEM brakes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
Possible the best tool in all of harbor freight is their vacuum bleeder.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Possible the best tool in all of harbor freight is their vacuum bleeder.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Possible the best tool in all of harbor freight is their vacuum bleeder.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
yes, start at the furthest and work towards the closest.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
before you start bleeding each caliper. Remove the bleader ( have a helper put their finger over the hole so it doesn’t drain ) and carefully wrap some Teflon tape around the threads and then reinstall.
without the tape the suction will pull air bubbles through the threads and you will keep seeing bubbles in the tubing thinking it is coming from the brake system.
Either do the tape or just barely crack the bleader. This takes longer because the opening is just barely flowing and even then you can still get bubbles coming through the threads.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
Or just let it suck air through the threads and run enough fluid through that you know all the air is out.
which is fine because you are flushing all the fluid.....the tape is more for when you are doing a brake job and just bleeding the system.
which is fine because you are flushing all the fluid.....the tape is more for when you are doing a brake job and just bleeding the system.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 436
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From: Southwest WA
another hint:
I always pull the old brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir as the fist step and refill with fresh brake fluid.
No point getting the old fluid from the reservoir into the wheel cylinders.
I always pull the old brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir as the fist step and refill with fresh brake fluid.
No point getting the old fluid from the reservoir into the wheel cylinders.
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This was my plan.
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Sometimes (okay...many times), though, I fail to follow that mantra.
Diverdude
Joined: May 2017
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From: Tennessee
I just did my front brakes, replaced all with new including new stainless braided hoses. The one thing that made all the work super easy was buying Russell brake bleeders! I replaced my new calipers bleeders with Russells. You just open them one at a time about 1.5 to 2 turns and pump the brakes. Took five minutes per side even though I started with a bone dry system! I bought them for when I do the rear brakes too. Best money spent ever!
