Brake question....
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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This is my next job. Bleeding the brakes didn't really help much. Though I now have new clean fluid in the system.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
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All you need is some clear plastic tubing (3/8" internal diameter) from Home Depot and an empty milk jug. Cut a slit in the milk jug cap and feed the tubing through it to keep it from coming out and flinging ATF everywhere.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: San Diego, CA
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Correct. I watched the video. I am also going to tape off the tube that you pull off from the master cylinder so it doesn't spray old ATF everywhere. He mentions it at the end of the video. Looks pretty simple. I also hope I can easily get a funnel in the fill hole with having a S&B CAI system.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I have version 2 of that intake and my problem is that I can't get the cap completely off with the intake installed. I can lift the cap and set it to the side and I don't have a problem getting a long skinny funnel in the reservoir.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Thanks for the heads up. I will assume I have the latest version since I just bought late last year.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
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From: San Diego, CA
S&B tells me I'm in the minority. They even have a video of taking the P/S cap off with the intake installed.
To be fair they have been great to work with. They have sent me 3 different versions of the intake tube portion for me to try to see if it solves the problem. None of them do and 2 of them won't line up to get the filter to sit flat so I can put the plexiglass cover one.
To be fair they have been great to work with. They have sent me 3 different versions of the intake tube portion for me to try to see if it solves the problem. None of them do and 2 of them won't line up to get the filter to sit flat so I can put the plexiglass cover one.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
S&B tells me I'm in the minority. They even have a video of taking the P/S cap off with the intake installed.
To be fair they have been great to work with. They have sent me 3 different versions of the intake tube portion for me to try to see if it solves the problem. None of them do and 2 of them won't line up to get the filter to sit flat so I can put the plexiglass cover one.
To be fair they have been great to work with. They have sent me 3 different versions of the intake tube portion for me to try to see if it solves the problem. None of them do and 2 of them won't line up to get the filter to sit flat so I can put the plexiglass cover one.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Well that was much easier than I thought. I wasn't able to remove the PS cap, but was able to set it aside while I stuck a long skinny funnel in it. The old fluid was still somewhat red. So I just ran 2 quarts of new ATF Mercon V through it. Turned the wheel left and right while pumping the brakes. Pretty easy. Seemed to help the mushy brakes. Not 100% but probably 40% fixed em. Noticeable at the least.
What are some other things I can do to get back the stiff pedal?
What are some other things I can do to get back the stiff pedal?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
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From: Arizona
When I did my brakes I flushed thoroughly and used Valvoline DOT3/DOT4 synthetic and WOW my brakes are better than new. I gravity bled the fronts but the rears were stubborn so I got Russell speed bleeders and they worked like a champ. I kept flushing and flushing till it was spotless, went through 4 quarts. One thing to note, once opened brake fluid can absorb moisture so use only new, fresh sealed bottles of brake fluid and don't try to store the leftover, it's not worth it.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Likes: 12
When I did my brakes I flushed thoroughly and used Valvoline DOT3/DOT4 synthetic and WOW my brakes are better than new. I gravity bled the fronts but the rears were stubborn so I got Russell speed bleeders and they worked like a champ. I kept flushing and flushing till it was spotless, went through 4 quarts. One thing to note, once opened brake fluid can absorb moisture so use only new, fresh sealed bottles of brake fluid and don't try to store the leftover, it's not worth it.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3,541
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Well that was much easier than I thought. I wasn't able to remove the PS cap, but was able to set it aside while I stuck a long skinny funnel in it. The old fluid was still somewhat red. So I just ran 2 quarts of new ATF Mercon V through it. Turned the wheel left and right while pumping the brakes. Pretty easy. Seemed to help the mushy brakes. Not 100% but probably 40% fixed em. Noticeable at the least.
What are some other things I can do to get back the stiff pedal?
What are some other things I can do to get back the stiff pedal?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 571
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Hmm. I will look into this. I do know my brakes only have 30k on them. Also i tested to make sure I don't have air in the lines and it seems I don't. I would brake, let off, brake let off and brake again all with the same results. Never got firmer or softer
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2017
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Quick update. I feel as if the brakes are back to the soft pedal. 1/4 travel does nothing. 1/2 travel lightly brakes. 3/4 starts to break as if I coming to a stop sign. Full travel grips the brakes hard. When I used the vacuum bleeder I was getting air pockets in the tube along with fresh brake fluid. Was that normal or did this possibly add air into my lines? I also barely turned the bleeder valve (1/2 possibly) enough to let fluid come out. I didn't make a full turn. I also never pumped the brakes during the bleed/refill. I just let the air compressor do the job. Does that matter if I pumped the brakes or not? Now when I changed my PS fluid I pumped the brakes and turned the wheels all at the same time.