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Old Feb 24, 2019 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
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Manifold bolt question

1975 F250 Highboy, 360FE C6, all stock.
I have diligently located and corrected the leaking exhaust manifolds on my truck.
I used NOS manifolds, had the machine shop grind them flat before installation, used Remflex gaskets, FORD NOS steel exhaust donuts in properly formed and sleeved exhaust pipes.
I did reuse the old bolts but they appear fine with no thread damage.
I finally have no exhaust leaks!!

Why cant I keep the manifold bolts tight??
I initially torqued them to 23 FT-LBs as Remflex suggested, but I have to re-torque them so many times in the past month , I'm sure they are beyond 23 ft-lbs now.
Basically after each ride I am able to get a half to almost full rotation on each manifold bold..its almost as though they are backing themselves out.

I like the truck with no exhaust leaks and am wondering if new bolts with locking washers and loctite would do the trick??
Appreciate any suggestions
Thanks
Tbruz
 
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Old Feb 24, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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I love the remflex gaskets on headers. they've held up great in my '76 high boy 428 Cobra Jet . I've never tried them on stock manifolds.

my guess is this, Remflex gaskets are pretty soft and fragile. on headers you have a larger surface area to spread the compression from the bolts. on stock manifolds you don't. so maybe the gaskets are letting things loosen up and back off.

This seems logical to me, but if I'm wrong there is one thing I'm sure of. the stock gaskets work fine and with new manifolds they will seal and your bolts won't back out. I'd put some in and ditch the graphite gaskets. .
 
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Old Feb 24, 2019 | 06:01 PM
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Don't overtighten them, 23 ft/lbs is plenty. Blue Loctite (not red!) might work but I don't think it holds up to the heat.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2019 | 06:09 PM
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I don't think any loctite would work, I believe red is only good for up to 650 degrees.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2019 | 06:59 PM
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The only reason they would back out is they're not staying tight. the only reason they're not staying tight is they're getting slack. the only place to get slack is the gaskets. new manifolds + new bolts + graphite gaskets that don't belong .
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 05:48 AM
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Maybe try Wedge lock or Nord lock washers....Fastenall has them https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/ I agree with the slack coming from the soft gaskets. And only after you compress all the compression out of the gaskets, then they will hold torque.

A long drawn out, but very good explanation of how the washers work.

 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 12:34 PM
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I doubt they will stop compressing until they're gone. like I said headers are what they are for .. they will smash out and break up I've done it.



graphite gaskets are great under the right conditions and worthless in the wrong ones.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 12:46 PM
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I’ve ordered a set of the steel gaskets and will replace the Remflex gaskets at the first opportunity.
Thanks
tbruz
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tbruz
I’ve ordered a set of the steel gaskets and will replace the Remflex gaskets at the first opportunity.
Thanks
tbruz
Quess it's worth a try, but I've used REMFLEX gaskets with stock manifolds on 390's and a 460 with no problems. Of course, I've also never heard of manifold bolts coming loose without PB blaster, impact wrench and a torch!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2019 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tbruz
I’ve ordered a set of the steel gaskets and will replace the Remflex gaskets at the first opportunity.
Thanks
tbruz
Hi tbruz,
For the steel gaskets, will you use Graphite Grease as specified in the factory manual?
Thanks..!
 
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 06:20 PM
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Was planing on installing them dry.
What is graphite grease?
Thanks
Tbruz
 
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tbruz
Was planing on installing them dry.
What is graphite grease?
Thanks
Tbruz
Hi Tbruz,
I'm not exactly sure what graphite grease is, but it is specified in the 1975 Shop Manual.
I had the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket replaced last summer at an old school truck repair shop, they used the steel gasket, and coated it with something that oozed out from the joint. Not sure what they used, should have asked.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 08:44 PM
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I use Permatex anti-seize compound that contains graphite. I don't know the technicals of what the graphite does. I suspect that it may help with heat transfer, fill minor imperfections, and possibly provide some degree of rust protection to the mating surfaces. Over time, carbon deposits may also help fill the joint after the graphite has done it's job initially. I have a 1979 F150 (400 engine) with 375,000 miles and it has never had exhaust manifold gaskets installed--no leaks! Manifolds installed directly on the heads seem to stay flat and rarely (maybe never) need machining to true them up.

Many Ford engines did not come from the factory with exhaust manifold gaskets. I can't figure out why so many Ford truck lovers feel the need to install some sort of composite gasket with the manifolds. The 360/390 in our trucks did use a heat shield from the factory which is what Ford called them in the parts manuals (likely the same as the "metal gaskets" that you have). I think you are on the right track with what you are doing by installing the manifolds the way Ford did it originally. Headers are a different story.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 03:17 AM
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And at least some anti-seize on the bolts. https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...e-lubricant-2/
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 08:04 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by tbruz
1975 F250 Highboy, 360FE C6, all stock.

Why cant I keep the manifold bolts tight??
I initially torqued them to 23 FT-LBs as Remflex suggested, but I have to re-torque them so many times in the past month , I'm sure they are beyond 23 ft-lbs now.
Basically after each ride I am able to get a half to almost full rotation on each manifold bold..its almost as though they are backing themselves out.

I like the truck with no exhaust leaks and am wondering if new bolts with locking washers and loctite would do the trick??
Appreciate any suggestions
Thanks
Tbruz
I also support the use of the anti-seize compound on the bolt threads in case you ever want to remove them in the future. Due to the heating/cooling cycles, the gaskets may be shrinking, and/or the bolts could be backing off some. I wouldn't use the loctite. The locking washers might help. Oldsmobile once used bendable tabs which would press against the flats on the bolt heads to discourage rotation. I suppose you could drill the heads of the bolts and "wire" them to stop the rotation. That's been used on differentials and other applications.
 
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