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Messing with the truck yesterday I could not get the starter to kickback at all with the same timing. The truck was up to temperature and sat idling for quite a while in the same weather so I'm not sure what is up with the inconsistency. The single power wire for the starter is in good shape, although pretty small. I'm not sure what gauge but it was probably 5/16" thick with insulation. I knew I would be driving the truck later in the day for around 30 minutes so I retarded the timing back to 10* initial. No issue starting at all. I'll keep putting some miles on the truck and see if the starter acts up again.
I verified the secondaries are only opening about 1/4" with a paperclip. Pulled off the vacuum diaphragm and replaced the little cork washer and it would hold vacuum with my finger over the hole. I also shot some air through the port on the carb body that the cork washer sits against, still no change. In drive, it feels like it short shifts from 1st to 2nd. I don't have a tach to verify it with but it feels more like 3 grand. I guess my next move would be to try putting lighter springs in the diaphragm.
Okay so now I'm a bit confused. What do your secondaries and shifting have to do with your timing and starter problems?
Stock a smog era 460's timing is usually 12 degrees BTDC. Bumping it up to 14 degrees is a great way to get a tad more oomph our of your engine. Changing to a straight up timing chain helps that too.
Anyways...if the starter isn't kicking back, then good deals! But then the question is why would it do it in the first place. Make sure all your grounds are clean and tight to start. Clean the connection at the starter as well. If the kickback stops forever, sweet!
The trans short shifting at 3k...sounds like your kickdown is either way out of adjustment, or the vacuum modulator is blown out of it. However if the truck takes till 3k to shift...that's not exactly what I'd call "short shifting".
Also it should be noted that while a cable might LOOK good on the outside, it may be garbage inside. I like to replace all battery cables on my older vehicles right when I buy them as a preventative measure. Do not buy the ones that the parts stores sell, as they are notiously junk. Go to your local welding supply company and have them make you some quality 2ga cables instead.
Okay so now I'm a bit confused. What do your secondaries and shifting have to do with your timing and starter problems?
Stock a smog era 460's timing is usually 12 degrees BTDC. Bumping it up to 14 degrees is a great way to get a tad more oomph our of your engine. Changing to a straight up timing chain helps that too.
Anyways...if the starter isn't kicking back, then good deals! But then the question is why would it do it in the first place. Make sure all your grounds are clean and tight to start. Clean the connection at the starter as well. If the kickback stops forever, sweet!
The trans short shifting at 3k...sounds like your kickdown is either way out of adjustment, or the vacuum modulator is blown out of it. However if the truck takes till 3k to shift...that's not exactly what I'd call "short shifting".
Originally Posted by Dave145
Also it should be noted that while a cable might LOOK good on the outside, it may be garbage inside. I like to replace all battery cables on my older vehicles right when I buy them as a preventative measure. Do not buy the ones that the parts stores sell, as they are notiously junk. Go to your local welding supply company and have them make you some quality 2ga cables instead.
Originally Posted by Skip1970
2 gauge welding cable is the good stuff forsure!
I was able to come up with some 1/0 welding wire today. I'll crimp some terminals on and post pics of the finished product.
I don't guess the secondaries on the carb have anything to do with the timing, just another step towards having a good running engine. I imagine faulty secondaries causes a lean mixture and would cause damage over time. Maybe not, but I'll throw a lighter spring in there and see what happens...
Also, I do not have a kick down lever attached to my carb. Does a kick down also affect upshifting? I've got one laying in the garage I can throw on there but I really haven't had a problem with it downshifting. I sort of though the short shifting I felt was from the engine flattening out on the top end due to the secondaries not opening.
I assume you are running a DSII ignition. One option would be to swap the Blue Strain relief DS II module for a White strain relief module, the white module has cranking retard other than that it is exactly the same as the blue one. So if you are getting advance hard start this is one way to rectify it with out having to open up the distributor and re-curve it.
1/0 wire installed, it cranks faster than ever now. Ended up replacing the + to solenoid wire too since I had enough wire.
N
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
I assume you are running a DSII ignition. One option would be to swap the Blue Strain relief DS II module for a White strain relief module, the white module has cranking retard other than that it is exactly the same as the blue one. So if you are getting advance hard start this is one way to rectify it with out having to open up the distributor and re-curve it.
Ill keep that in mind if the problem comes back. Thanks though, I had no idea there was such a thing
1/0 wire installed, it cranks faster than ever now. Ended up replacing the + to solenoid wire too since I had enough wire.
N
Ill keep that in mind if the problem comes back. Thanks though, I had no idea there was such a thing
As side not replace those battery clamps when you get a chance they one step above a set of vise grips. Install lugs on the cable and use Mil Style battery clamps for a no issue ever install.
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