I am having a bit of a problem getting my distributor set up correctly. Let me give you guys a rundown of what the problem is, and what I've tried.

I bought a Cardone remanufactured distributor for my 1976 Ford F-250 Ranger XLT with a 2bbl 390 in it, because the old distributor had a little bit of slop in it. It is the Ford Duraspark electronic ignition system. Upon installing the distributor, I got it set at a decent base timing to get it to run, and then I believe started out at around 14 degrees initial. I noticed I was having trouble getting more than 5 or 10 degrees of mechanical advance out of it, so I found the point at which I got roughly 36 degrees total at around 3,000 rpm. That point was probably around 20 degrees initial. So I thought, there's no way that there is an 8L slot on the weights! So I opened up the distributor to find it set on the 16L slot. So, with the base timing set at 20 degrees, I should've been getting 52 degrees total timing instead of 36 or so. So, I dialed the timing back to 4 degrees initial to see what it would do, and with it set that low, I didn't get any mechanical advance whatsoever. I would even see the timing retard a few degrees when the engine was revved up. With the 16L slots, I should be able to set the initial timing at 4 degrees, and end up with 36 total. So what gives?

My question for you is this: What would cause a distributor to give me some mechanical advance when the initial advance is set way too high, but not give me any mechanical advance, even have the timing retard, when I have the initial advance set properly?

I've tried lighter springs, even running with one spring, and the same exact thing happened. Should I try heavier springs next?
I am able to rotate the rotor counterclockwise a little bit and have it snap back into place when I let go. So there is smooth and free movement, and the springs aren't weak.
The vacuum advance works fine. I can suck on the vacuum line running to the vacuum advance can and have the revs come up slightly, like it's supposed to.
Could it be a problem with the electronic ignition control box? My guess is no, because the vacuum advance works fine, and both the vacuum and mechanical advance work off of the timing between the reluctor and the magnetic pickup, but I'm open to hear everything.
I disconnected the vacuum advance during all of this, as you're supposed to do, except when I was specifically testing the vacuum advance.
Is it possible that I somehow got a bad remanufactured unit?

Hope you all have some ideas on this. I'm stumped.

 

Something is causing it to bind.

RPM will increase timing unless the springs are way too heavy or there is a mechanical stop (bind).

I would keep the light springs in it. I used to use Mr. Gasket 925D.

 

The first thing you need to realize is that current REMAN is junk. If the re-builder sets the curve(s) correct, the dist will only apply to certain applications. By using generic curving, the same part will fit many applications. Same as reman carbs.

If you want the proper curves, you need to find a speed shop with a distributor machine who is knowledgeable and caring. You can also buy a timing tape and do it yourself with a timing light and tach.

Just throwing an aftermarket spring kit at it ain't gonna do anything but make it worse.

The above is only (IMO) of course...

 

Alright guys I got the problem solved. I decided to go look at the distributor another time, and took off the breaker plate (magnetic pickup plate, whatever you want to call it), and looked everything over again. Like before, everything was turning and moving completely smoothly, no binds, no sticking, no nothing. So I grabbed some spray lithium grease and gave every rotating and/or moving part a good spray, then put everything back together. I also put in some bigger jets and a new power valve that I had wanted to do for a long time. Fired it up, and started getting the advance I needed. Thank you all for the replies.

 

That looks pretty decent to me. And even those might improve a bit with more driving.

Paul

 

In colder climates the wires inside the distributor can become very frigid and prevent the vacuum advance from functioning correctly. This is obviously not your current issue but just something to be aware of in the future.