Filter Changes
I'm a bit confused about the air filter as it appears there are 2 part numbers. I looked in the manual for the air filter part number and it shows FA-1926 for the air filter and FA-1927 for a foam pre-filter. I haven't looked under the hood but is there 2 different air filters?
For the fuel filter I see it is an FG-1147. I think that is the engine mounted one. The book talks about a frame mounted (near the fuel tank) filter also but I didn't see a part number for it. Should they both be changed at the same time? Anyone have a part number?
How often should the cabin filter be changed?
I did do a search for this topic and I'm sure it has come up before but I didn't find anything specific to my questions. Thanks.
Cabin filter is every oil change "if dirty' if you drive in dusty smoky conditions, that can be quite frequent.
Engine air filter, about every 2 - 3 oil changes, depending on dusty conditions. There is also an air minder that measures restriction, if this is set off, then it should be changed.
By all your filters online at for example Diesel Filters on line and do it yourself for significant savings.
Alternatively, I am on a maintenance package, I am getting lots of extra cabin air filters, engine air filters, wiper blades, as and when needed.
life of them and checked them a couple times and there spotless. There’s also filters under each seat for the heated cooled vents. They can be vacuumed off though.
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30k for fuel
45k for air foam (one piece with paper filter-earlier if the DP tell tale shows it needs it)
In case of emergency, read your manual.
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OP - if your dealership recommended all of which you stated, then you should find a new dealership. Your sig states 2017 and you stated second service so I can only assume on mileage - the part that makes me say stay away from the dealership is the air filter recommend more than anything else.
Oil and filter change - when vehicle indicates - generally will be between 7k-10k, around 300 engine hours.
Ford states fuel filters every other oil life minder requested oil change - this should be in the area of 600 hours. The frame fuel filter is huge, unless you have a contamination issue, you will find it will be no where near capacity, point being even 600 hours is generous.
Cabin air - I have found in experience that 20K is a good number. It is not the quickest and easiest to access so you will probably be inclined to change it when you go through the trouble to remove it - unless you live on a gravel road or haul in and out of a stone yard everyday, the cabin air is large enough to accommodate 20K.
Air filter - the three biggest misconceptions on air filters are: it is okay to open and inspect it, you can tell if it is plugged by how dirty it looks and should change it when it looks "dirty", the little doo-hickey hanging off the side of the air box affectionately known as your air filter restriction gauge does not work because it never moves. The best thing you can do for your air filter is to not touch it - open it to inspect it provides opportunity for dirt contamination and breaks the seal between the air filter and housing. Cellulose air filters have a very high initial efficiency which only gets even higher as it loads with dirt. That is a good thing - changing the filter prematurely keeps you in the initial efficiency range only. As for the minder - that is the one and only reason you should ever open the box and change the filter - when it states to. That minder will indicate filter change at 20" or 25" of restriction - whatever Ford chose to select.
Your new air filter creates 1" at most, most likely closer to .5" The gauge does not look like its working because it is! The filter outflows the engine air requirements - the filter has to be relatively full before restriction starts to climb. Once the filter reaches near end of life, restriction climbs relatively quickly.
For the 6.7L, the manual states you should inspect the filter minder - it does not specify mileage replacement interval or to visually inspect the element.
You will have no effect on performance or fuel consumption up to around 20" of restriction on a turbo charged diesel engine even up to full load conditions which is when the greatest air volume is drawn - below those conditions, you draw less air volume. The industry standard is to replace at 25" of restriction at the filter. Restriction is based on the amount of surface area of the filter PLUS the air flow. Hence why it takes so long. For most owners, you will not see an air filter change request until you are in the area of 100K. Quick lube and dealerships places all over the country will fight you on this but the real truth is that changing your air filter early provides no benefit, waste Your money and can in fact be detrimental.
For those who are interested, Fleetguard, Donaldson, Cummins and many others have PDF files online which you can quickly find regarding air filter best practices.
**Also - if you have the newer style air filter which you should being a 2017 (air filter housing is in the back next to the firewall verse the front next to the radiator, the foam piece is integrated into the air filter and is serviced as one assembly. The two piece paper with replaceable foam insert applied to 2011-2016 6.7's.
I will probably not be using the dealer again and try to find a local shop that can do the oil and filter. I had 2 leaking valve stem/sensors and the recall on the engine block heater so it was convenient to have it all done at once. The cabin and air filters will be here tomorrow and the fuel next week. May not be necessary to change anything right now but I will do it before our travel season starts. My engine has 533 hours.
Your mileage may vary. If you don't tow then all your intervals will be longer than mine.
Two additional points to consider for those who chose the visual inspection route - air filters have depth, a lot of it actually and when you look at your filter, you are only seeing the very upper top surface. Also, dirt comes in many different colors which is why the 'black dirt' means nothing. For example, an air filter from a piece of equipment operating in a stone yard all day may be lightly discolored when it reaches full restriction so the visual aspect can work the opposite way as well.
Some of you probably think I am getting a little too into the air filter thing but I have seen (numerous times) vehicles come in with damaged air boxes, broken clips, air filter seal torn etc from other places removing the air filter 'every oil change.' The most recent vehicle I had was a '17 Chevrolet Suburban with less than 30K on it and the air filter box was cracked from the screws being over tightened. This in turn caused the lid to not be secure and allowed dirt to be sucked in around the loose air filter. There is no reason for that but the plastic holes the screws go into were already worn! That air filter would have easily last to 100K before being at full restriction. I have oil analysis reports from customers of mine that shows what happens when dirt gets sucked in past the air filter. It happens and I have seen it enough - your truck cost too much for something silly like that. True our design is pretty service friendly but why chance it and the more you open it up, the higher probability from an issue.











