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On our ‘93 DRW 4x4 F350 with the D60 front end; the spindle bearing decided to thrash itself causing us some headaches. It ran torn apart for a bit and left only the outter casing of the bearing assembly. Our worst nightmare, as you can imagine, is removing that thin piece of metal. I’ve tried a screw driver and no luck with the angle to hit the lip. Even tried a pry bar with no such luck. Thought a pilot bearing removal tool should do the trick, nope just slides.
Its not the “greatest” photo but all I have on my phone at the moment.
Anyone got got any other ideas that I’m not seeing?
I have used a long punch to drive them out. I’m not sure if there is enough of a lip left to do that. Maybe a Demel to very carefully cut it out?
My next thought was either a dremel or the blind hole bearing removal tool but like you said its gotten hot and thinned out in places. Which is scary to think because the case material is pretty hard. I had a similar issue with the bushings on a chevy being stuck and we just welded a bead on the inside and they popped right out. I am afraid to try that here...
If any of the lip's still left, a steel punch and a big hammer are the way to go. support it
on something solid, and don't be afraid to hit it pretty hard. Work your way around.
Some hubs have notches for just this purpose- I've never worked on a D60...
If the lip's gone, cutting the race carefully isn't too bad. A few nicks in the hub won't
cause any problems- don't cut deeply, nor make a groove all the way through (it will leak grease!)
but you can get it out that way.
Once it's out, I'd check everything to make sure it didn't wear or bend or scar up a surface that you need for
sealing or strength...
If all else fails you can just take it to a machine shop and let them deal with it for a few bucks for ya.Over the years I've learned when it's more efficient to let others handle some things.I can say,I've never not been able to get a race out before though.Being burnt in from self destruction I understand just what your dealing with though and probably why I would just go to a a machine shop with it and let them clean it up for me.That or replace the hub,whichever is cheaper (likely the machine shop in this case.Especially considering those only came on 4wd cab and chassis and they're hard to find,plus are well worth fixing to keep going.)
A torch would easily get it out. Being so thin that it would turn red instantly and would not even heat the spindle. Much like how you can blow a bolt out and not mess the threads up
A torch would easily get it out. Being so thin that it would turn red instantly and would not even heat the spindle. Much like how you can blow a bolt out and not mess the threads up
This is what I was thinking. You could then use a spray bottle with water and that may cause it separate from the spindle.
If all else fails you can just take it to a machine shop and let them deal with it for a few bucks for ya.Over the years I've learned when it's more efficient to let others handle some things.I can say,I've never not been able to get a race out before though.Being burnt in from self destruction I understand just what your dealing with though and probably why I would just go to a a machine shop with it and let them clean it up for me.That or replace the hub,whichever is cheaper (likely the machine shop in this case.Especially considering those only came on 4wd cab and chassis and they're hard to find,plus are well worth fixing to keep going.)
Being a farm kids son we’ve been taught how to fix things ourselves. Which in this day and age the internet and having it at our fingertips is a plus. Going to try and torch it out this afternoon. That’s exactly what we have is a chassis cab 4wd and the spindle itself is anywhere from $230-625, not very cheap at all.
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