Potential First Diesel Purchase
#1
Potential First Diesel Purchase
I've been searching for some time now for a OBS 7.3 and will be going to look at one this coming week that's for sale. It's a 1997 4 door F350 SRW 4x4. It has 267,000 miles on it and has had 4 owners - Carfax/title comes back clean. In the past 6 months, it has had quite a bit of work done on the truck. The seller has shown me the invoice for everything having been done. It included 2 new batteries, ICP sensor, Intake Y o ring, Irate Diesel Fuel System, Brake Flush, PMF Suspension adjustable track bar kit, new powerstroke thermostat, turbo install gaskets, turbo exhaust inlet clamp, riff raff diesel intake Y boot kit, PMF suspension rear 6'' blocks and u bolts, oem battery to battery positive cable assembly, oem passenger and driver ground cable, new HPOP alliant power, HPOP gaskets, 4'' diamond eye exhaust, OEM turbo charger, OEM turbo pedestal and hardware, bellowed up pipes, oem turbo up pipe collector, and Up pipe Hardware. All fluids have recently been changed as well. Truck has 37'' tires, and a 6'' rough country lift.
All of the labor work/parts have 2 year 100k mile warranty. The body of the truck and interior all look exceptional from pictures and no rust is reported. Seller also reports no blow by.
Based on all the recent work done, can anyone give me their honest opinion on this truck? Does this sound like typical work being done for these trucks at this mileage? Or does this sound like it could be more of a money pit. Invoice shows all of this work done was around $10K.
Can anyone give me additional advice on what to look for/inspect when the time comes to check this truck out?
Thanks in advance!
All of the labor work/parts have 2 year 100k mile warranty. The body of the truck and interior all look exceptional from pictures and no rust is reported. Seller also reports no blow by.
Based on all the recent work done, can anyone give me their honest opinion on this truck? Does this sound like typical work being done for these trucks at this mileage? Or does this sound like it could be more of a money pit. Invoice shows all of this work done was around $10K.
Can anyone give me additional advice on what to look for/inspect when the time comes to check this truck out?
Thanks in advance!
#2
Make sure the oil valley is dry, its a high leak area. Check dip sticks for burnt fluid. Make sure you start it cold, dont let them warm it up. Check coolant and make sure there is no oil in it these trucks dont ride very smooth, so they can have stuff become loose, feel around underneath and make sure there is no play in anything. If you can take a jack with you, you can lift up each front tire and check for movement.
make sure the Check Engine light comes on before you start it. Some shady people will pull bulbs out. Oil cooler is visable from driverside front wheel well, check for any moisture there.
make sure the Check Engine light comes on before you start it. Some shady people will pull bulbs out. Oil cooler is visable from driverside front wheel well, check for any moisture there.
#3
#4
ThingsToLookForWhenBuyingAUsedPowerStrokeDiesel
Turbo:You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...;=21&t;=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
#5
So, it really has this and a crappy ad -
Lift kit with huge tires on stock gears. Probably open diffs. Also bad news for the trans.
Some basic maintenance. 260k and a thermostat, but not a water pump or fresh hoses? Or belt and idlers? HPOPs are pretty much kaput at this point.
Batteries and cables are a plus, if they are 850CCA and good ones.
Efuel kit, no experience with Irate's kit. Looks like it will work well.
Exhaust and uppipes.
Does not sound like $10000 worth of stuff to me. Sorry. Furthermore, I could probably knock all of that out in a week myself.
Lift kit with huge tires on stock gears. Probably open diffs. Also bad news for the trans.
Some basic maintenance. 260k and a thermostat, but not a water pump or fresh hoses? Or belt and idlers? HPOPs are pretty much kaput at this point.
Batteries and cables are a plus, if they are 850CCA and good ones.
Efuel kit, no experience with Irate's kit. Looks like it will work well.
Exhaust and uppipes.
Does not sound like $10000 worth of stuff to me. Sorry. Furthermore, I could probably knock all of that out in a week myself.
#6
Thanks everyone for all this helpful info. Truck is listed as having original transmission still so now I’m feeling like steering away from this truck. Especially for what asking price is. Attached is craigslist ad online. Any additional thoughts?
https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...818393110.html
Thanks!
https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...818393110.html
Thanks!
#7
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#8
Agreed. A 270k trans is on its last legs, even if the clutches are good...it is leaking internally.
If that was addressed, along with pictures of all these new parts, it could be worth $15k maybe. I really dislike low light photographs in sales ads.
Furthermore, I noticed the ill fitting floor mats up front. I mean, were $75 direct fit Husky Liners too expensive?
If that was addressed, along with pictures of all these new parts, it could be worth $15k maybe. I really dislike low light photographs in sales ads.
Furthermore, I noticed the ill fitting floor mats up front. I mean, were $75 direct fit Husky Liners too expensive?
#10
Not sure what you are looking for but if you are willing to travel you can find good deals.
This is is a 1 min. search.
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...Type=spotlight
This is is a 1 min. search.
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...Type=spotlight
#11
#12
It seems like most members here feel that most trucks are overpriced, however trying to find a decent one for under 10k doesnt really exist here in colorado, people ignore blue book values. Most for sale near me with over 250k are priced 10k or higher(probably 15k average), i have one im selling for 8k and its got 310k, lifted and not very good condition, but phone goes off frequently with interest.
i would stay away from a lifted OBS at that price.
i would stay away from a lifted OBS at that price.
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