ok, its got 300k miles on it and i know thats not exactly high mileage for these engines, but way more miles than i've ever had on a car. it a super clean 97 2wd f250 with a brand new factory tranny. is there anything to look out for. i would like to find something with less miles but getting tired of looking. should i buy it?

 

look for leak's in the top of the eng, pull the intake hose off the turbo to see if the compresser wheel is chiped up(Dusted) ,how was it serviced? how does it run, how much or they asking

 

i haven't seen it yet. its a good hour and 1/2 away. asking $6400. probably go see it on friday.

 

Tips - Idea - Hints
Others will most likely add to the following
BuyingUsedPowerStrokeDiesels


ThingsToLookForWhenBuyingAUsedPowerStrokeDiesel

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

OH! and 24/7 online technical help right here.

 

I just got my f-350 cc had 279k on it for 6k, knew it had some issue's like the fuel pump leaked.
But do look for fuel sitting in the valley of the motor & oil leaks in the front or under.
As long as it hasn't been rode hard and put away wet.

 

Good info. Looking for one myself and this is very helpful.

 

It better be better than perfect for 6400 being 2wd with 300k, even with a new tranny.

 

6400 is WAY too much... I paid $6200 for my 96 with 147k original miles and I bought it from the original owner. All stock except an upgraded trans cooler, recently rebuilt trans, wheels, and RSK kit up front.

 

price sounds high, I've seen plenty of 4wd trucks that are 4wd for less than that

 

mine for 10k and id deliver lol!

 

way to much. i bought my 97 350 dually, 200000 miles, perfect interior, ran like brand new, no leaks, brand new tires and has a western hauller flat bed for 5500

 

bought mine, '95 F350 dually with less than 10k on reman transmission and 160k on engine for $5200

 

see if it has the original injectors and turbo. those are expensive repairs. since they claim the tranny is good no need to worry bout that. the axles and springs are easy and fun to work on, at least i think. electrical is always interesting. but all to his own. if you like to work on vehicle then buy it but try to talk the guy or girl down as much as you can. if not then go buy a super duty because 9 times out of 10 these truck always need something lol.

 

mine is high, but theres one local at a dealer for 13,800 and its 2wd with 175k on it..So i was just going off that.

 

Bwahahaha... does it come with the keys to Fort Knox too?