So, here's the deal. I found what I think is a killer deal on a truck. A 2006 F-350, single cab, dually flatbed, 4x4, automatic, 96,000 miles on the truck. Was used as a fleet rig for a contractor. The ad says " It will start up in the coldest of days and runs powerful and strong with no hesitation but temp doesn't get hot inside cab unless your foot is on the peddle. We have had this problem for over a year and doesn't seem to be getting worse but don't need the truck anymore."

In discussing with the seller, he told me that they've had to keep adding coolant "every other day". This makes it sound to me like they continued running the thing, possibly for a year (per the ad) with a bad head gasket.

I can pick the truck up for $2500, which I believe is a reasonable price. After factoring in a couple grand in parts (I intend to do the labor myself) I see it as a truck with under 100k miles and a new engine, for under 10 grand. I should be able to run it for ten years or more. Killer deal.

My concern is, if they've been running it with this known coolant consumption issue, am I likely to run into a scenario where the heads are shot, or possibly a cylinder wall is warped? Swapping parts is no big deal, but if I have to factor in the cost of new heads and a new block, then the numbers will look vastly different, and not quite as favorable.

Thanks in advance for y'alls input.

 

 

True, but just the same, figuring the possibility of an extra 4k into this build is a hefty chance to weigh in. I guess what I really need to know is, is it likely that I'm going to run into a scenario where either the heads or block are not salvageable? I don't know what burning coolant consistently might do to the motor. Theoretically, if they kept adding coolant every other day, then they probably weren't letting it overheat, but that's far from guaranteed and I don't know what damage might be caused by burning coolant for a year, even if it never overheats.

In the event that I do go the long block route though, who are the recommended suppliers? I haven't been able to find much info on that. And 4k for a long block seems cheap, I've only seen one website that would give prices but they were around 3500 for a short block and 5200 for a long block.

 

 

If they were adding water and not mixed coolant then there is a lot that can happen.

As for a crystal ball on this just flip a 1/2 dollar and that will give you an idea.

The risk is anywhere from $3500 to $13,000 Used engine or a full fresh one.

 

 

There are more then a few farm tractors out there that have a history of that. And when those motors are pulled down it very apparent when looking at the cylinder wall. As a buyer I would approach this as it needing a long block. And if not, it's your lucky day.

 

I am, indeed, located in Alaska. Logistically, that makes sourcing much of anything more expensive and time consuming than in the lower 48. To add on to that, I'm actually in pretty rural Alaska, so there's an added cost to get anything from Anchorage.

Yahiko, when you say $13,000 for a full fresh one, what do those numbers entail? Buying a complete reman engine and paying a shop to do the install? It seems to me that a new long block can be purchased, along with all the necessary accoutrements, and assembled for significantly less than that, no? I've been seeing costs of 2500-5000 for all parts (excluding block/heads) on all the build threads I've been reading.

Packagerjr, I'd rather not go into it anticipating that I may end up parting it out. I have too many other things going on in life to deal with a vehicle like that. I'm looking for a vehicle that I can work and DD for the next several years without breaking the bank, and I'm comfortable taking on a project to achieve that because my truck has at least a few years of life left in her. But if the chances are fair or better that the engine isn't worth rebuilding, then that changes my consideration for this particular vehicle.

TooManyToys, what happens to the engine when they burn water as opposed to coolant? Cylinder walls get scored? Warped? I would venture to say that perhaps the cylinder walls in this particular truck aren't warped. Reason being, and this is simply my shade tree mechanic logic, but they claim the truck starts and drives alright. If a cylinder wall were warped, would that not result in a loss of compression and more than likely a horrible running engine, if it runs at all?

If I end up needing a long block, that's not the end of the world. However, I would like to (obviously) get the biggest bang for my buck. Who/where are the reputable suppliers for long blocks? What might a realistic cost be to purchase one?

Also, I'll ask the seller, and if he tells me that they consistently kept coolant in it, not water, and didn't let it overheat, and just topped it off when the coolant was low, does that make the situation better? Assuming he's telling the truth, that is. If they never let it overheat and just burned through a ****load of coolant, is it likely that that (as opposed to burning water) has damaged the block beyond repair? Or does it simply get consumed and need to be replenished, and that's that?

I will also inquire to find out approximately how much driving they did with it once they discovered this issue. It's possible that they mostly parked it once it developed this issue, and has seen minimal run time since then. We'll see.

 

 

Ahh, yes. Rust. Didn't even think about that. Pitting would be a problem. I don't know anything about cylinder wall warping either, just have read that it can become a problem if the head gaskets go.

16k is much more than I'm looking to spend on this, to say nothing of 22k. My intent in even considering this truck was to buy it, rebuild the engine to a point that it's as reliable as I can reasonably get it without breaking the bank, and have a work truck/DD for several years to come, keeping the total cost to about $10,000 (figuring 7000-7500 in parts max).

However, it's sounding like maybe those numbers aren't realistic for what I'm looking at doing.

The reality is, I'm going to need another vehicle in the next couple years, and ideally it'll be a flatbed like I drive now, because that's what I use. I can't afford a new one, and even if I could I wouldn't buy one. If I could get this truck and rebuild it for a reasonable cost, to a level of quality that will provide me with several years of service, then I'd be happy. But if I'm looking at a bill of 15-20k by the time it's done, I'd probably be better off to take that cash and buy something outright when the time comes. That's not nearly as exciting, I'd like to take on the project. Just not totally disregard the financial considerations while doing it.

 

My worry about water only has to do with cavitation and the damage that will cause to the inside of the coolant passages.
It can even blow through the back of the front cover where the coolant pump mounts.

The $13,000 was for a Ford Full dress reman engine uninstalled. They come all ready to install. Jack has had some issues with
the one he has in his truck and a few others have popped up also. But on the up side you can install it yourself and still have the
Ford 2 Year unlimited milage warrantee. As I understand it that warrantee is good even for ones being in heavy use. Just not abuse
I would think. I would if you are going that route check the warrantee fine print just to be sure and also the price has likely changed.


Full Dress is the complete engine with turbo and injectors. In other words ALL OF IT.

 

DO NOT GET A FORD REMANUAFCTURED MOTOR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You could get a salvage motor or a bare long block from someone like Asheville, although the shipping issue you've mentioned. Labor would go up if you are not able to transfer parts.

 

Jack I don't think I would go that far. If they had more failures maybe but we are not hearing cases of mass failures.

 

Well, I do have this video coming once my sinus clears enough to finish the voiceover.

Then there's this.