When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good morning everyone.....
I am thinking I want to change out my gauge cluster. What I have now is the cluster with the 2 "idiot lights" on the top row.
Here is what I have....
BUT.... what I want is the cluster that has the actual gauges.....
Like this one.....
SO... my questions are these.....
Can I just swap out the 2 idiot lights for the 2 gauges?
Is there a wiring harness issue?
I want to be able to see if my oil pressure is GETTING low..... I don't want to see a dang light come on because my oil pressure IS low......
It's an OCD thing......You know what I mean?
Bad news is cluster sweep gauges versus cluster with warning lights IS wiring harness specific and I understand is to not be a simple cluster swap. There is a few threads that discuss the specifics concerning wires,pin count on the main elec connections ect... Are you also wanting to swap from a 80 to a 100 MPH?
You can always add a aftermarket set of gauges, here is how you tap the "live" oil pressure gauge before the OEM oil sending unit.
Bad news is cluster sweep gauges versus cluster with warning lights IS wiring harness specific and I understand is to not be a simple cluster swap. There is a few threads that discuss the specifics concerning wires,pin count on the main elec connections ect... Are you also wanting to swap from a 80 to a 100 MPH?
You can always add a aftermarket set of gauges, here is how you tap the "live" oil pressure gauge before the OEM oil sending unit.
Ohhhhhhh... well, I was expecting an answer like..."oh, no problem at all.... just put 'em in"......LOL.
Hmmmmm..... yep looks like plan "A" is out, SO, I will try to formulate a plan "B".
Thanks for the response.....
Mike
Hmmmmm..... I just got another 80 MPH Ga waiting in the wings.....
Mike, I did swap my 80 mph gauge for a 100 mph gauge. That part is no problem. You just need to change out the speedometer driven gear on the transmission/transfer case end of the cable, to correct the MPH reading.
I have an aftermarket 3 pack with coolant, oil, and a voltmeter. I used the factory placement for the coolant sensor since I had trouble finding an adapter to use a different hole. But if you spent more than 5 minutes looking and didn’t need the fill the coolant back up that day you could make the factory coolant light work. With the pic posted above you could use an aftermarket oil gauge in hand with your factory light. Voltmeter is cool too AND you can keep the ammeter.
You can install a "known year" gauge cluster in place of an idiot light cluster with some re-wiring efforts and a few parts.
Besides the gauge cluster itself with its appropriate pigtail, you will need an oil pressure sender in place of the oil pressure switch. For the ammeter I purchased a stock ford ammeter that was converted to a voltmeter by Rocketman.
Using the year correct wiring diagrams I re-pinned the old idiot light cluster wires according to the new gauge cluster pin outs..
In my case I wired the former ammeter leads into seatbelt warning position of the new cluster. I even replaced the red seatbelt plastic bezel with my red ammeter plastic bezel so that it illuminates correctly when I start the vehicle. I wired my new Rocketman voltmeter direct with two new leads that were outside of the pigtail harness. My old ammeter leads were positioned into the seat belt illumination locations on the new gauge cluster pigtail .
Effectively I have a voltmeter with separate wires outside of the harness in the stock dash location and an ammeter idiot light in my seatbelt light position.
It really wasn't difficult but more finicky. You must be certain of the model year of the both the trucks harness AND the Gauge cluster/pigtail because there are year to year differences.
Thanks
tbruz
Last edited by tbruz; Feb 6, 2019 at 05:35 PM.
Reason: typo corrections
Ohhhhhhh... well, I was expecting an answer like..."oh, no problem at all.... just put 'em in"......LOL.
Hmmmmm..... yep looks like plan "A" is out, SO, I will try to formulate a plan "B".
Thanks for the response.....
Mike
Hmmmmm..... I just got another 80 MPH Ga waiting in the wings.....
I don't ever recall a time when has used this logic and it's seriously unfortunate. Don't flame me for saying this because it's fact, but easy swaps and universal parts is more of a bowtie thing.
I don't ever recall a time when has used this logic and it's seriously unfortunate. Don't flame me for saying this because it's fact, but easy swaps and universal parts is more of a bowtie thing.
SHAME ON YOU!
Go wash out your mouth with soap!!
Well...... yes, I guess you are right...
Oh well.... ONWARD!!
Ohhhhhhh... well, I was expecting an answer like..."oh, no problem at all.... just put 'em in"......LOL.
Here you go:
The oil gauge is easy. Just pick up your positive power for it where your fuel gauge gets its positive, so that it is regulated by the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.
For the negative, you will need an oil pressure gauge sender, as opposed to the warning light sender. Your sender wire should pop right on to the gauge sender. Then working on the cluster end, you would route the sender wire from the old warning light to the negative side on the new gauge.
The ammeter would be a little trickier, at least for me. But I don't see why you couldn't duplicate the shunt which Ford used, using your existing wiring.
Of course the best way would be to just grab the wiring harnesses from a truck which came with gauges.
As much as I hate it.... I guess I might just start considering plan "B". I want gauges but I don't really like the idea of "add ons"..
I don't know.....
If I find myself a gauge panel with the gauges then it should have the PC board on back. Then getting sending units, wiring them in......
I have too many more things that need attention...... SO, this issue goes on a back burner.
I don't like a bunch of add on stuff either. Especially in the cab where I have to see it all the time. But I'm so danged paranoid about engine health, I added a few gauges. I got used to it, and even like it now.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
has used this logic and it's seriously unfortunate. Don't flame me for saying this because it's fact, but easy swaps and universal parts is more of a bowtie thing.
