Wastegate actuator
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Joined: Jan 2019
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Wastegate actuator
I broke the wastegste actuator. Looking for a replacement. Should I go to a 33psi unit? Was thinking of disabling it altogether anyway. Engine is 2002 stock with tps 6 position chip. I rebuilt turbo and swapped the compressor wheel with a 5x5 wheel however when attempting to adjust the length of wastegste shaft it broke.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 13
From: Glendive, MT
Welcome!
If you are located outside of California and don't have to deal with smog inspections, get a mechanical unit from dieselsite.com.
https://www.dieselsite.com/19995-200...ontroller.aspx
If you are from California, get a Banks Big Head. It has an EO# and is California smog legal.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/bighe...uator-99-5-03/
These are an upgrade from stock. The one from Diesel Site is adjustable.
If you are on a tight budget and just want to stay stock, Riffraff has that too.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/waste...uator-99-5-03/
Let us know what you do and how it works out.
If you are located outside of California and don't have to deal with smog inspections, get a mechanical unit from dieselsite.com.
https://www.dieselsite.com/19995-200...ontroller.aspx
If you are from California, get a Banks Big Head. It has an EO# and is California smog legal.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/bighe...uator-99-5-03/
These are an upgrade from stock. The one from Diesel Site is adjustable.
If you are on a tight budget and just want to stay stock, Riffraff has that too.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/waste...uator-99-5-03/
Let us know what you do and how it works out.
Last edited by HD Rider; Feb 4, 2019 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Add
New User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 18
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From: N.C.
I have the 33psi also waiting on warmer weather to rebuild the turbo. My rod end seems way too tight on the shaft. It ought to be able to be hand-threaded but it's locked down tight although the lock nut spins freely. It's generic off eBay so we'll see.... Replacing the pedestal, going to the 360 bearing kit and swapping the EBPV housing for a delete one and adding a 5X5 billet wheel. Have been pondering the TS6 myself but have "overthunk it" a bit since reading reviews and the horror stories about it (and other tuners) that weren't bought direct from the makers. I'm going to follow along with this and look forward to seeing how it all turns out for you.
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Thank you all for the responses. It is my plan to wire the wastegate closed and plug off the line. I'm installing all new boots and clamps, rebuilding the turbo, changed the pedestal for the EBPV delete, changed the turbo housing to remove the EBPV ,changing the HPO lines and adding a cross-over line and replacing the up-pipes. Right now I'm stuck between life moments and the fact that I had to cut all 4 bolts that held the up pipes to the manifolds and they are "welded" to the manifolds. I've been unable to get them out thus far. I've soaked them repeatedly with penetrating oil and have been using an air chisel but no luck. Once I get them out I'll get it all back together and report back how it does in this configuration.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
A safer option for heating the bolt that is less likely to set fire to other stuff around it is an induction heater like this:
Bolt Buster BB2-ACC Orange/Black Handheld Heat Induction Tool
They are stupid expensive though so you may want to try building your own:
https://www.instructables.com/id/100...uction-Heater/
Bolt Buster BB2-ACC Orange/Black Handheld Heat Induction Tool
They are stupid expensive though so you may want to try building your own:
https://www.instructables.com/id/100...uction-Heater/
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
You still have to remove the frozen portion of the bolt from the manifold. And cherry red heat is your friend.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I use old license plates for heat barriers when heating in sensitive areas. I also had the starter out on the driver's side, it gave me extra room. Oh, and I had both fender liners out for better access.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 40
Likes: 6
From: BCS Texas
If there is enough of the bolt still sticking out of the manifolds, you could try welding a large bolt or nut to them. Might give you enough torque to get them out, and would heat them in the process.
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Thanks everyone. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I bought an acetylene torch kit to help and still no go. I'm able to melt the nut end of the bolt but I cannot get to it at the right angle to make a difference. I think now I need to figure out how to weld something to the end of the nut/bolt and see if that will help. I do not feel confident in this as these things are STUCK!! I've even thought about cutting the manifold out and using a u-bolt to connect to the up-pipe flanges but I can see where the heat/cooling cycles will make this a constant maintenance item. Other option is to cut the bolts holding the manifold to the block and hope none of them are stuck in the block. Once the manifold is out I can get the bolts out or replace them if necessary. Most everything else on this truck has been fairly easy until this. Again, once I get these taken care of I'll be able to get it all back together and report back to the group. Any other suggestions on how to get stuck bolts out would be welcomed as well. The only welding option I have is this new torch...
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woodnthings
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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May 28, 2014 05:11 PM