Put a 10k load behind these trucks and stab the throttle....the spring wrap is amazing.

 

Talked to OUO: There are 8 holes per mount for the "self-anchoring" type bolts that would be used on a box-framed truck. For our old open "C" shaped frames, only 4 bolts/buts are necessary per mount.

I ended up using 2 out of the 4 factory holes on the frame, and drilling a 3rd on the bottom rail (sides I used all 4 bolts). The 4th hole on the bottom lined up half-way with a factory hole and if I drilled it, it would have essentially made one big hole shaped like a figure-8. I opted to not bother with this.

I'll post pics later for reference but the mounts are all on - ready to install trac bars after I run some errands (including picking up a large 1-15/16" socket) to finish the install.

Here is a good, short video that shows the axle movement before and after the install (not my truck)l:

 

I have some good footage from under the truck when I was trying to identify the clutch chatter.

With a 12k lbs trailer the axle was rock solid and did not move one bit.

They are pricey, but very stout and do a great job.

 

Got them on. The bucking I experienced at times with the wheel turned all the way in reverse is GONE. Shifting is also much smoother. I used to be able to feel the driveline flex in the shifter, not anymore.



Here is the hole I didn't bother drilling.


While I had the truck in the garage, I also added my Centramatic Balancers:



And decided to paint my rusty hubs too:



Looking a little better:



Truck barely fits in my garage (there is less than 1" clearance to the door after I changed to the 3-1/2" F350 rear blocks.

Notice the droopy doggy-dick MRBP exhaust? The rear section was loose enough that you could see it jiggling at the joint. Thanks 4WheelParts!



I fixed that too.



I was greasing my driveline and noticed the output shaft nut on my t-case was completely loose.... Ugh, fixed that too. The clutch shop I went to hires meth heads:



And my front driveshaft was missing a zirc fitting... got one put back in, but I cannot for the life of me get my grease gun tip to fit in there. How do you guys grease the front-most fitting?! (This driveshaft was rebuilt less than 10k miles ago - another stellar shop job!!)



Only thing left to do on the driveline is adjust my parking brakes. I put in new Motorcraft cables today and noticed a big improvement, but they are still not as tight as I'd like. It's damn near impossible to adjust the rollers now that I have the OUO brackets welded on the axle... I'll be looking for a stumpy thick flathead screwdriver next trip to the store...

 

 

The needle is interesting, hard to tell by the scale, is it so small that it fits in the tiny hole where the little check-ball is?

 

 

I've towed 13k behind a lifted F-350 and my stock Excursion and haven't felt any issues. Both automatics and I tow gently so that might explain me not feeling the need. I mostly asked because I've talked to several people that 'needed' them without knowing what they do or why they 'need' to have them.

 

Is the bracket the holds the bar to the axle welded or something else? Hard to tell in this photo

QUOTE=beef ****;18461558]Got them on. The bucking I experienced at times with the wheel turned all the way in reverse is GONE. Shifting is also much smoother. I used to be able to feel the driveline flex in the shifter, not anymore.



.[/QUOTE]