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I have been trying to chase down the problem. The problem started on day when someone cut in front of me and I laid on the horn. The horn was stuck on after that, so I tried to pull the fuse. But I didn't need to as the fuse popped before I could get to it.
Now to the problem, I have isolates the horn pad and it is bad. So I am going to be replacing it. But I have a secondary issue now. When I remove the pad from the circuit and jumpered the connection the horn sound for a second or 2 then blow the fuse again.
All that history for my question, where sound I be looking? The whole circuit seems to be working, so I am wondering if one of the horns might be causing my problem now. FYI when I did some additional tested I had to use a 25 amp fuse and it did not blow.
The horns most likely. One probably got hot and the coil is shorted out a little and is drawing more amperage than it should. Get an amp meter and check each horn. or check resistance of each horn.
I will be testing the horns and the wiring when I get a chance, hopefully next week. Since I know the horn pad switch on the steering wheel is bad, I am trying to decide between getting OEM (My first choice) and a Dorman switch. If it wasn't for the price difference it would not even be a choice, but the OEM part is about $330 and the Dorman is $135.
Now the next question for anybody, the 05 horns are discontinued so do you think the horns from like a 14 will work.
I went through a similar situation not too long ago, and I installed an aftermarket horn, and the dorman switch, and so far so good. a few months into it...
Thanks , I ended up with new horns from the dealer and a aftermarket horn pad switch. When I tested the old switch in the truck it was stuck on, but when I took it off the steering wheel and bench tested it, it worked fine. I just replaced it anyway.
BTW I just ordered the horns for an 08 Super Duty and used my old bracket
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