1965 F100 Electrical Problem
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1965 F100 Electrical Problem
Hello, This is my first post, so I hope I am doing this correctly! I recently bought a 1965 F100. The truck would not start and I thought it was the starter (I am not a mechanic!). I took the starter to the store and they bench tested it. The starter was okay. I re-installed the starter, hooked up the battery and it started right up. A few weeks later after driving quite a bit, the truck wouldn't start again. Did not crank at all, no noises. I unhooked the battery and then re-connected it. Again, the truck started right up. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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On the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid ,where it bolts onto the solenoid there is a 10 gauge wire on this terminal,unbolt both of the connections and clean them up.
the 10 gauge wire powers the rest of the truck.
i bet it’s crudy and maybe a little loose.
also check the negative battery cable at both ends to be sure they are clean and tight
the 10 gauge wire powers the rest of the truck.
i bet it’s crudy and maybe a little loose.
also check the negative battery cable at both ends to be sure they are clean and tight
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
On the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid ,where it bolts onto the solenoid there is a 10 gauge wire on this terminal,unbolt both of the connections and clean them up.
the 10 gauge wire powers the rest of the truck.
i bet it’s crudy and maybe a little loose.
also check the negative battery cable at both ends to be sure they are clean and tight
the 10 gauge wire powers the rest of the truck.
i bet it’s crudy and maybe a little loose.
also check the negative battery cable at both ends to be sure they are clean and tight
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Do yourself a big favor, if the battery, starter, & ground cables are original (or even just old) they all need to be replaced. Trust Me. Now don't just buy the generic replacement cables in the blister pacs at the auto parts stores, those are junk. They are "okay" for modern, lightweight 4 cylinder engines maybe.
For the same price or near enough can get good heavy duty AWG copper cable with quality terminals at a Tractor Supply store. Grind down to bright shiny bare metal at the frame, block, and firewall &c., where ever they terminate, and tighten securely. Coat with vaseline, chassis grease etc. The starter relay solenoid itself grounds through the bracket. Make sure all of these connections are clean and tight.
For the same price or near enough can get good heavy duty AWG copper cable with quality terminals at a Tractor Supply store. Grind down to bright shiny bare metal at the frame, block, and firewall &c., where ever they terminate, and tighten securely. Coat with vaseline, chassis grease etc. The starter relay solenoid itself grounds through the bracket. Make sure all of these connections are clean and tight.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 375
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From: Southern OR
Hello, This is my first post, so I hope I am doing this correctly! I recently bought a 1965 F100. The truck would not start and I thought it was the starter (I am not a mechanic!). I took the starter to the store and they bench tested it. The starter was okay. I re-installed the starter, hooked up the battery and it started right up. A few weeks later after driving quite a bit, the truck wouldn't start again. Did not crank at all, no noises. I unhooked the battery and then re-connected it. Again, the truck started right up. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Mount Vernon
Make sure that your starter solenoid is grounded very well to the inner fender. I remounted mine by drilling and tapping both holes and also added nuts to the bolts so the screws do not come loose. Make sure your negative cable is connected from the battery to the motor and the connection has a clean landing area. No paint or rust. Make sure there is a ground strap from the motor to the frame and clean connections on both ends where you are connecting the ends of the cables. Make sure the cables are least #2 coming from the battery. Connections are everything on these old trucks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
And do yourself a favor any time you have a new-to-you old vehicle that runs glass fuses. Pull them all out and put them all back in!
Just this action alone serves to clean the contact points and, perhaps, let more current flow through them. Most of the old fuse panels had this issue over time. Some more than others, usually having to do with the moisture in the air. But even here, in what's a glorified desert, it still happens.
The "official" recommendation before doing this is to disconnect the battery (you can just disconnect the negative/ground cable and this disables all the electrical functions in the vehicle) but with most fuse setups, you can remove and re-install the fuses without causing undue stress to the system. Or yourself when sparks fly!
Good luck.
Paul
Just this action alone serves to clean the contact points and, perhaps, let more current flow through them. Most of the old fuse panels had this issue over time. Some more than others, usually having to do with the moisture in the air. But even here, in what's a glorified desert, it still happens.
The "official" recommendation before doing this is to disconnect the battery (you can just disconnect the negative/ground cable and this disables all the electrical functions in the vehicle) but with most fuse setups, you can remove and re-install the fuses without causing undue stress to the system. Or yourself when sparks fly!
Good luck.
Paul
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