Another Cold Starting Issue
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio
Another Cold Starting Issue
Been chasing this Gremlin for several winters. Being overseas, I'm limited with the amount of time I have to work on this issue so I've kept the darned thing on trickle chargers most of the time. Additionally, there aren't any Ford Truck Mechanics here. Currently, all less than a year old are, both batteries, Alternator, and starter. When below 40F this thing needs to be started everyday and driven. If not, the batteries are drained. I'm a new user to the Autoenginuity scanner but not educated enough yet to use to to diagnose this problem. Any thoughts on that is appreciated. All battery connections are perfectly clean and tight. I've searched all the forums but the majority are for GPR vehicles and not GPCM vehicles. Ideally, there would be a diagram of Step 1 through Last step or "start here at this point, if not this then that, if not that, then this" (made sense in my head when I wrote it). Again, any pointers are greatly appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 1
From: Loveland,CO
That is not a starting issue, it sounds like you have a draw somewhere that is draining the batteries, thus making the truck hard to start. You need an amp meter to help you find what is draining your battery down. How are the battery cables? though connections are tight the cables could be corroded. Search for "parasitic draw" in the forum search...there are several posts that might be able to aid you.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio
Update,
brought my truck to a recommended auto electrician (yes they have these in Italy). Explained the problem, gave him an end-state/expectation and he said no problem. Fast forward three days. Now my A-Pillar gauges don't work (lights or gauges) and my alarm system no longer locks the doors. Even the electric door lock button does not work. So I check fuses. All fuses in the cab are good. Maxi fuse 102 in the battery junction box is blown. A 30A fuse is blown that wasn't when I drove it in. Seems suspect at best. Replace the 30A fuse and still no electric door locks. What's weird is that the park lights run through the same fuse and those work. Could use some help because right now I'm worried that this clown did some serious harm to my baby.
brought my truck to a recommended auto electrician (yes they have these in Italy). Explained the problem, gave him an end-state/expectation and he said no problem. Fast forward three days. Now my A-Pillar gauges don't work (lights or gauges) and my alarm system no longer locks the doors. Even the electric door lock button does not work. So I check fuses. All fuses in the cab are good. Maxi fuse 102 in the battery junction box is blown. A 30A fuse is blown that wasn't when I drove it in. Seems suspect at best. Replace the 30A fuse and still no electric door locks. What's weird is that the park lights run through the same fuse and those work. Could use some help because right now I'm worried that this clown did some serious harm to my baby.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 263
Likes: 9
From: Near Chicago
I honestly don't trust shops, why I tend to do everything myself.
well, at least the 2 new symptons should be easy to track down with a decent meter and/or a test light.
start at the fuse and trace it until you find where the power loss occurs, could be something as simple as a bad ground.
As to the parasitic draw there is a great step by step on these forums, just type parasitic draw into the search bar. That was how I found the bad diodes in my alternator last month causing it in my Excursion. A few years ago on my Expedition it was a bad power/ battery cable from the battery to the alternator/starter (it is a one piece on the Expedition, not sure if it is on the Excursion as I have not looked that close at it yet)
well, at least the 2 new symptons should be easy to track down with a decent meter and/or a test light.
start at the fuse and trace it until you find where the power loss occurs, could be something as simple as a bad ground.
As to the parasitic draw there is a great step by step on these forums, just type parasitic draw into the search bar. That was how I found the bad diodes in my alternator last month causing it in my Excursion. A few years ago on my Expedition it was a bad power/ battery cable from the battery to the alternator/starter (it is a one piece on the Expedition, not sure if it is on the Excursion as I have not looked that close at it yet)
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 60
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From: San Antonio
Not exactly much help and doesn't assist towards finding a solution. Your experience working in a Fiat dealership as a kid has no relationship to my current predicament regardless how you find the similarities.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio
I honestly don't trust shops, why I tend to do everything myself.
well, at least the 2 new symptons should be easy to track down with a decent meter and/or a test light.
start at the fuse and trace it until you find where the power loss occurs, could be something as simple as a bad ground.
As to the parasitic draw there is a great step by step on these forums, just type parasitic draw into the search bar. That was how I found the bad diodes in my alternator last month causing it in my Excursion. A few years ago on my Expedition it was a bad power/ battery cable from the battery to the alternator/starter (it is a one piece on the Expedition, not sure if it is on the Excursion as I have not looked that close at it yet)
well, at least the 2 new symptons should be easy to track down with a decent meter and/or a test light.
start at the fuse and trace it until you find where the power loss occurs, could be something as simple as a bad ground.
As to the parasitic draw there is a great step by step on these forums, just type parasitic draw into the search bar. That was how I found the bad diodes in my alternator last month causing it in my Excursion. A few years ago on my Expedition it was a bad power/ battery cable from the battery to the alternator/starter (it is a one piece on the Expedition, not sure if it is on the Excursion as I have not looked that close at it yet)
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 263
Likes: 9
From: Near Chicago
I hear you on the free time, i spend about half the year working lots of OT myself. But tracing wires downs is pretty simple and an hour here or there could find your culprit right away.
Just start at the fuse, then jump to the next component (switch, relay, etc) power going into it/power comig out of it? Same thing for the ground side, just checking for ohm's instead to find where the ground is lost.
Move on down the line until you find the bad wire/part.
In principle not much to it, just some pesky free time.
Just start at the fuse, then jump to the next component (switch, relay, etc) power going into it/power comig out of it? Same thing for the ground side, just checking for ohm's instead to find where the ground is lost.
Move on down the line until you find the bad wire/part.
In principle not much to it, just some pesky free time.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 816
Likes: 7
From: Prescott, AZ
You're right on all points. Sorry for trying to inject some humor into an unpleasant situation - I hope you get your issues worked out.
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