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So, my 7.3 IDI dump truck has been giving me fits. Started have hards starts after sitting, to not starting at all when hot. Rebuilt injector pump, rebuilt injectors, all new return lines, caps, orings. Truck started right up after replacing all these parts, seemed to run great. Then I noticed a fuel leak, near the lift pump. The rubber hose going to metal supply line was chafed, leaking. Changed the line, and still the pump seemed to be leaking. Turns out the inlet nipple on the lift pump had a hairline crack where it entered the housing. Im down in the islands, parts are hard to come by so I ordered one from Advance auto- Delphi pump. Install the pump, truck wont start. Turn it over, bleeding schrader on the filter housing, no fuel. Pull the line from output of lift pump to filter housing, nothing coming out while turning the engine over. Pull the pump back off. Hooked up a line to the inlet nipple to a jug of diesel, actuated the lever by hand against a wall- after a few strokes, fuel shot out the oulet-pump is good. Took a air hose, rag, pressurized fuel tanks, both front and back, changing selection with the dash switch. Fuel coming out both selections on supply line coming from the FSV.
Re-install lift pump, hook up supply line to nipple, spin engine over while pressurizing tank with air-nothing. No fuel exting lift pump. Hook up a supply line to lift pump from a jug of diesel right above it- nothing, still no fuel. My only conclusion is the arm on the lift pump is not traveling with enough of a stroke to pump fuel- perhaps a worn crank lobe couple with a poor tolerance pump. Can I attempt to bend the lift pump lever to try and get a little more stroke, then reinstall?
Try around post 10 in thread below. The pump mentioned looks pretty good. You will also need a blockoff plate for where the mechanical pump went. Amazon has the plate and also has the pump for a bit more than where the poster got his from. Use a relay operated from the fuel cutoff solenoid on the injector pump to power the electric pump, that way electric pump turns on/off with key on/off. Block off plate I think is same one for a Chevy 350 or Amazon had it as an addition when I looked up the pump
So are you running a relay for the facet pump, or just powering it straight from that FSS? I ordered one of those facet pumps, best price I could find on the net was about 113$ after shipping. Stilling tryin to find a source for a relay https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=9133
Since this lift pump is not working out, Im gonna pull back off, and put a best-guess bend on the lever arm to try and get it to contact the crank lobe. Hard to believe that lobe is so worn it wont drive this pump but I have no other explanation. If you have a link for relay, Id appreciate it.
Seems obvious you've either got the wrong pump or the eccentric on the cam is flat. They're nothing but Carter gas engine pumps that were used for years and years and basically trouble-free. Haven't had one in my hands for years, but IIRC you'll have fits bending the arm. Should be able to figure a way to check the lobe first?
If it ran with the old pump but now not the new pump then that should tell you that new pump isn't any good or the wrong one (most likely)
x2
The benefit of a mechanical lift pump is that most parts stores have a lifetime warranty. I have had one go bad on me though and pump diesel into the crankcase.
BTW, you should be able to see the eccentric the mechanical pump rides on with a flashlight and inspection mirror.
Everyone is always quick to put an electric fuel pump on these trucks, but I never understood why. The only benefit is when you go to change the fuel filter, it primes easier. If you fix the fuel leaks/air intrusion properly, there is no problem with fuel delivery and starting. I have never had an electric fuel pump on my truck and have had it for 14 years now. Only time I had problems starting or staying running is when there was a fuel leak somewhere that would let air in. They had mechanical pumps from the factory and these trucks would go hundreds of thousands of miles with no need for an electric pump. Just my .02
my reason for going with the e-pump was it seems the only time the mechanical pump would go bad and fill the crankcase up with fuel was when i was out on the road.
by eliminating the mechanical pump and replacing it with the duralift, i no longer have to worry about that.
my reason for going with the e-pump was it seems the only time the mechanical pump would go bad and fill the crankcase up with fuel was when i was out on the road.
by eliminating the mechanical pump and replacing it with the duralift, i no longer have to worry about that.
It definitely sucks when the pump goes bad like that.
Luckily, I was only driving the truck back and forth to the parts store when I noticed it. I ended up changing the oil twice in the span of a week or two just to make sure I had fixed it.
all three times i lost the diaphragm in the lift pump i was at least 200 miles from home escorting a wide load, and did not notice it until i smelled fuel. the damn pump filled the engine up with 5 gallons of fuel one time.
luckily i was only moving under 20 mph so it was basically idling and no damage was done.
but it still cost me because i had to hire someone to take my place while i drained the engine, flushed it, changed the pump, and finally filled it with real oil.
after the second time i bought the e-pump, and had it in the truck for when it happened again. it has been in the truck for over 230,000 miles now.
There used to be a guy on forums who ran an injection shop and he was saying many IDI transfer pumps are designed to leak fuel out a small breather hole externally if the diaphragm ruptures rather than fill the crankase. I vaguely remember something like that years ago when the same pump was used on most gas engines, but don't know if it's true or not. I've never had mine rupture and it's well over twenty years old.
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