Gang,
I'm finally starting on my oil leak fix and turbo/up pie/down pipe replacement on my 2000 2wd Superduty. I'll be replacing my up pipes with Sous' old bellowed pipes and wanted to know if anyone had any tricks that would make the job easier. I've been spraying the bolts with Deep Creep and other penetrating oils monthly for the past 7 months and will hit them again tonight and tomorrow before starting battle. The passenger side pipe looks to be the worst as far as accessibility goes. Is the fender well removable or is it necessary? I'll be removing and replacing up pipes, down pipe, resealing fuel bowl and HPOP, adding RR FRX and CNC HPOP lines, and replacing turbo pedestal, turbo outlet (EBPV delete ), and turbo. Any tips would be appreciated.
Lewis

 

Auto or manual? If manual look into permanently plugging the valley drain to keep your clutch from getting oil all over it.

Fender liners do come out, I recall removing them for my up-pipes.

Its not a bad job if you are doing the turbo anyway.

Be careful with the o-rings and look up how to install them before tackling this, do not over torque. The seals on the fuel lines are different, you want to bottom out the nut on these.

Look into the passenger side fuel line mod, this line is known to rub, burst, and leak. Best to re- install it so this doesn't happen.

 

Thanks for the info. It is an auto tranny.

 

 

The driver's side up pipe at the exhaust manifold is easy. I didn't take out the fender liner on that side. You can do the passenger side one without pulling the fender well, but I ended up pulling it to get the new up pipe to manifold back on. I used a folded up towel on the front of the engine because my knees were killing me. If you have any inkling you're going to put in a ww2, do it now. I'm having regrets already about not doing it. Also, just put the riffraff intake to spider boots on now. Have the Advil ready. This was like doing yoga with weights. I had sore muscles I never new I had afterwards. Also, a 1/4 electric ratchet will make pulling everything apart faster. I had the whole thing torn apart in about 2 hours. I did have to cut the bolts on the passenger side flange and took a sawzall to the top of the passenger side up pipe next to the accumulator. Make sure to cover the holes so metal doesn't get down there. The rubber gloves on the intake manifold works great and it's a huge piece of mind.All the videos make putting the turbo back in super easy and it was not for me. Have someone watch those orings on the turbo as your putting the turbo back on making sure they don't move. Have a booster leak tester cap is nice to make sure you've got all your leaks done.

 

I'm replacing all the boots and clamps with RiffRaff offerings as well as intake manifold inserts. I've already rebuilt Sous' old turbo and installed the KC turbine wheel to augment the RR 4X4 compressor wheel that he had already installed. I'm looking around for some packing blankets or a pad for the engine top, my knees have always given me trouble and now that i'm an old fart they're not any better.

 

 

.1. Don't tighten anything till it is all assembled finger tight, especially the bolts at the manifold or you will really fight trying to line up everything at the the baby's butt. Assemble everything, snug, then torque.
2. Make yourself very comfortable when you set that turbo down of top of the pedestal so you can lower it straight down onto those orings without sliding them out of position, and don't forget there are orings on both sides of the pedestal.

 

 

I knew if I asked there would be a tsunami of knowledge heading my way, thanks. John(Colorado 350) what or where is HF?

 

 

O heck yeah, I lived thru that! Reps for the sound advice and thanks for the lolz.

Top side creeper my dudes. No need to perforate your bacon on the damnable hood latch.

 

Make sure you have a full box of curse words, you're going to need them all.

 

I think, as much as I know I could do mine, I am going to pay the $175 I paid a few years ago when I did my OBS ones. This job just sounds worth losing $200 to not hurt for 5 days afterwards. Either this, or pull my engine to get other stuff addressed all at once.

 

Honestly when I took off my OEM up-pipes it took very little effort and they pretty much fell apart in my hands. Was very easy...

When I took out the up-pipes that Lewis now has and is going to install it was a nightmare. The pipes were only a couple years old and I had installed them properly. I was also planning to resell them, so I could not try to destroy them in an effort to win the all out assault on the up-pipes.

I would not pay someone to install up-pipes, not a chance. But, I can always get more time and since I am on a fixed budget, I would rather spend the time than the money.

Anyway, this is the guide I used Lewis. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf

I know the RiffRaff instructions are for International, but the process is the same. Again, if you have the OEM up pipes, they will probably fall apart in your hand when you go to remove them. Since you have been soaking them with penetrating oil, that is all the prep I did as well. Based on what I know about your experience, I think you will be just fine.