Up pipe Replacement Tips
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I also pulled the turbo when I did mine and the job wasn't that bad. I removed the starter and the downpipe for extra clearance. I put together the up-pipe assembly - both pipes and the collector - and dropped them into place behind the engine. After I dropped the turbo in, I used a ratchet strap looped around the front tow hook, over the grill and engine, and through the up-pipes to put some tension keeping the collector in place. I wiggled it around and it snapped into place (there is a peg-and-hole between the collector and turbo inlet). After I snugged the clamp down, take out the ratchet strap. Everyone said this was one of the hardest parts of the job but it only took me a few minutes.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
Honestly when I took off my OEM up-pipes it took very little effort and they pretty much fell apart in my hands. Was very easy...
When I took out the up-pipes that Lewis now has and is going to install it was a nightmare. The pipes were only a couple years old and I had installed them properly. I was also planning to resell them, so I could not try to destroy them in an effort to win the all out assault on the up-pipes.
I would not pay someone to install up-pipes, not a chance. But, I can always get more time and since I am on a fixed budget, I would rather spend the time than the money.
Anyway, this is the guide I used Lewis. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf
I know the RiffRaff instructions are for International, but the process is the same. Again, if you have the OEM up pipes, they will probably fall apart in your hand when you go to remove them. Since you have been soaking them with penetrating oil, that is all the prep I did as well. Based on what I know about your experience, I think you will be just fine.
When I took out the up-pipes that Lewis now has and is going to install it was a nightmare. The pipes were only a couple years old and I had installed them properly. I was also planning to resell them, so I could not try to destroy them in an effort to win the all out assault on the up-pipes.
I would not pay someone to install up-pipes, not a chance. But, I can always get more time and since I am on a fixed budget, I would rather spend the time than the money.
Anyway, this is the guide I used Lewis. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf
I know the RiffRaff instructions are for International, but the process is the same. Again, if you have the OEM up pipes, they will probably fall apart in your hand when you go to remove them. Since you have been soaking them with penetrating oil, that is all the prep I did as well. Based on what I know about your experience, I think you will be just fine.
I also pulled the turbo when I did mine and the job wasn't that bad. I removed the starter and the downpipe for extra clearance. I put together the up-pipe assembly - both pipes and the collector - and dropped them into place behind the engine. After I dropped the turbo in, I used a ratchet strap looped around the front tow hook, over the grill and engine, and through the up-pipes to put some tension keeping the collector in place. I wiggled it around and it snapped into place (there is a peg-and-hole between the collector and turbo inlet). After I snugged the clamp down, take out the ratchet strap. Everyone said this was one of the hardest parts of the job but it only took me a few minutes.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
After my experience I'd pay $175 but if your buddy has a rust clause built into his contract I might have to do them myself. I had to cut the bolts off of the exhaust manifolds with a combination of dremel and acetylene torch. Passenger's side fender liner out and starter off (new starter was in the program anyway so that might not count).
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
Thankfully the up-pipe flanges to exhaust manifolds are attached with bolt and nut - just cut the bolt - access isn't too bad. Your new up-pipes will come with new bolts/nuts most likely. As far as the upper up-pipe flange to baby's butt bolts, those are probably rusted in and will snap off. Don't even bother, new up-pipes come with baby's butt and new bolts. Of course my experience is on a ZF6 truck, YMMV on a auto truck. I also removed the down pipe but did not remove the fender liner(s). I used ebay Up-pipes and they worked just fine, also welded on some ports for the EGT thermocouples - much less risky than drilling and tapping your old cast exhaust manifolds.
Last edited by 3fordasho; Jan 22, 2019 at 01:33 PM. Reason: minor correction
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,353
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I have been very lucky because my truck spent its life in Louisiana and Texas before I bought it. Not one bolt (knock on wood) has been rusted to the point I could not remove it. This is to include the rear leaf springs, anything under the hood and front end suspension parts.
Has been a great truck and when I think that one day I may have to get a 6.7, I just look at some of the "how-to" videos on YouTube about how to work on that thing and I laugh, move onto something more entertaining.
Lewis, you will be fine sir! If you get stuck or need a second opinion, you have my phone number. Feel free to call or text, I would be glad to help.
Has been a great truck and when I think that one day I may have to get a 6.7, I just look at some of the "how-to" videos on YouTube about how to work on that thing and I laugh, move onto something more entertaining.
Lewis, you will be fine sir! If you get stuck or need a second opinion, you have my phone number. Feel free to call or text, I would be glad to help.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 163
Likes: 9
Thanks again for all the info. I let the garage warm up this morning and drove the truck up a set of ramps I have to get it off the ground. I sprayed the manifold/up pipe nuts and bolts with Deep Creep once more and had at it. They all broke loose with a 3/8" hand ratchet and box end wrench, I was able to turn them off with my fingers the last few threads, not bad for 19 year old exhaust parts. I backed it back off the ramps and repositioned it so I could close the garage door and started on the top but didn't get far.
My neighbor came over in need of help, he had a first calf heifer with a partially delivered calf in distress. We got her in the corral after herding around a couple of pastures and called the vet, the calf was too big for her and wouldn't budge. When I got back I had to clean up before continuing.
I'll start again either tonight or in the morning. My fear is that because the bottom came apart so easily that the top will have a bad surprise in store for me just so the Universe can balance its Ying and Yang. We'll see.
My neighbor came over in need of help, he had a first calf heifer with a partially delivered calf in distress. We got her in the corral after herding around a couple of pastures and called the vet, the calf was too big for her and wouldn't budge. When I got back I had to clean up before continuing.
I'll start again either tonight or in the morning. My fear is that because the bottom came apart so easily that the top will have a bad surprise in store for me just so the Universe can balance its Ying and Yang. We'll see.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
maybe it was just filters from running Mexican fuel
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 163
Likes: 9
I went back after my last post to check on the progress and got roped into helping pull the calf. The results were a healthy heifer calf and a sore but functioning mother who was able to stand and nurse her newborn. Sometimes things work out.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
‘Was it backward? I pulled many calves growing up and a few had to be pushed back in turned around or a front leg wasn’t forward and you pushed the calf back in pulled the leg up, making sure you had front feet and then pull the calf out. Being armpit deep in a cow is not the most enjoyable experience either...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 163
Likes: 9
Both front legs were out when we herded her into the corral but she wasn't able to go any farther, possibly her pelvis was too narrow being a 1st calf heifer. I was able to shove the calf back in and position her head a little better and set the chain to pull her when the vet showed up and completed my work. I was glad to let him take over as it wasn't my animal and would have felt bad if the calf had died. While it isn't pleasant to be armpit deep it is warm, the temp was in the high 30s at that point. This is just part of the cattle business, when things work out you get a good feeling of accomplishment.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
Both front legs were out when we herded her into the corral but she wasn't able to go any farther, possibly her pelvis was too narrow being a 1st calf heifer. I was able to shove the calf back in and position her head a little better and set the chain to pull her when the vet showed up and completed my work. I was glad to let him take over as it wasn't my animal and would have felt bad if the calf had died. While it isn't pleasant to be armpit deep it is warm, the temp was in the high 30s at that point. This is just part of the cattle business, when things work out you get a good feeling of accomplishment.
I like your optimistic view, Yeah, it’s warm, you just hope she doesn’t take a crap been there done that... City Slickers will be like what is wrong with you rural folk…? 
. Well, if you can pull a calf you can pull the up pipes, see how I brought the thread back on point? 