Well, we got some more rain here and once again I notice the leak. So, it isn't the inclined driveway somehow letting the water get in, it just plain leaks from numerous spots on the upper part of the rear window. My question is this, how hard is that to install a new gasket? Is it possible for me to do or does it need to be done by a window specialist? I can change a gasket if that is all it is, but if there is more than that I may not want to get into it. Anyone happen to know how bad of a job this would be or what? Any help is appreciated. Thank You.
BTW: $5 tool from local AutoZone did the trick on the stereo. I have my CD player in now. The clothes hanger thing just didn't work for me.

 

Odds are that the frame is cracked on the window frame at the center supports.

I bought the fix for the leak but my frame was cracked and there is no fix for that except a new window ( I bought a one piece unit).

As far as pulling the window it's not that hard, it's just that you have to nearly strip the interior to remove the window.

I can supply more details about it if you wish. I'll be out until next Monday though.

 

Do you have a slider or solid glass? If it is a solid glass you would be ok to do it.A slider,thats a bit more challenging.Sliders have a tendancy to crack at the frame as they are removed.And,some sliders are cracked installed,thus causing leaks. I bought my truck used from a Ford dealer and they had an outside glass company install my new slider; under warranty of course.Didnt have to pay anything,but I do know they charged Ford $400.00 something dollars! If you have the extra money,let a professional do it; if not,you face a fun task! Good luck!

 

The rear slider on my 97 F-150 4x4 SuperCab had been leaking. Seems to be a pretty common problem. After doing some research I decided to tackle the problem this past weekend. I got a copy of the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 01-1-11 and ordered the gusset seal (the "fix") from the local Ford dealer. When ordering the gusset seal from Ford the part number is XL3Z-1542086-AA, my Ford dealer had no idea what I was talking about until I gave him the part number. The seal was around $40.00. I got a roll of 3/8" butyl window cord from Napa and got busy. Once you get all the interior molding removed from the cab the window is pretty accessible. You have to remove most of the plastic molding to get the headliner out. I removed the backrest of the rear folding seat also. Once you get all this out just remove the nuts from the back of the window screw posts. You need to cut the existing butyl seal while pushing out on the window, a putty knife works well. Take your time and don't push too hard on the window frame, they can break easily. Follow the directions in the TSB 01-1-11, they are pretty detailed. Be sure to scrape off all the old butyl. My fram had an existing crack in it but I went ahead with the "fix" anyway. The crack wasn't too bad and the gusset seal completely seals the existing frame so I'm not too worried about it. The TSB says to jam a 1" piece of the butyl cord in the gap that exists on both sides of the sliding window. Right above the posts that seperate the sliding window from the two solid windows. This is key! If you have a leaking window without a cracked frame you might get away with just doing this and then resealing the window without buying the gusset seal. But the gusset seal is only $40 anyway. When I was done I tested it pretty good with a garden hose and its as good as new. It took about three hours and was not very difficult. I even had my pregnant wife help get the window out. If anyone has any questions feel free to email me.

 

Thanks for the tips stantojl

I'm sure others will find the info useful.

 

Yeah, thanks for the info. I am contemplating doing this myself as well, I am just afraid the window will be cracked and not reuseable and I will be stuck taking it to Ford unexpectedly. I have an extended warranty on the vehicle which may cover the window, so it may only cost me the $125 deductible for it.

 

If its covered under the warranty you may go that route. Between the gusset seal and the butyl rope I spent about $60. I new my frame was cracked even before I started. I could see the hairline crack in the plastic frame. Take a look at the frame from the back seat. I know people have said that they broke their frames while trying to take them out but if you are careful and take your time I don't see how it could happen. The key is to break the existing butyl seal. I went around the entire window with the putty knife breaking the seal before I even started pushing out on the window. It didn't look like Ford did a very good job at the factory with the butyl seal, that alone may be a lot of peoples problems.

 

Cool, thanks for the info.

 

I bought a 97 extended, two years ago used. I bought in the summer when we didn't have to much rain. One day I got in my truck when it was raining and noticed water pouring onto my back seat. So I went the route of asking my insurance agent if this was covered under my policy. At first he told me that the new agency I was with may not think so and not to "rock the boat". He said if it wasn't they might drop me. One day I was getting the oil changed for my work truck and right next door was a glass place I went and asked them about it and they said it would be covered.
To make a long story short I called the insurance company and they paid for the new window. Yes, it was a slider!
So the point is check to see if you have glass coverage, if you have a loan you have to have full coverage. Glass is part of this. My window was $500+.

 

I know my front window is under insurance b.c yesterday on the way to the Daytona Beach Turkey Run Car Show a rather large rock flew over my friends truck and hit mine. Put a rather nice size crack in it which has since gotten a lot bigger. Called my insurance and I have a windshield shop coming to my house today to replace mine. I need to go read my extended warranty info b/c my deductible on the warranty is $125, but it's $500 on my insurance. Did they replace yours for free through the insurance and not charge a deductible at all? If so I will have to look into that one b/c although I paid cash for the truck I do have full coverage on it.

 

If they are going to replace the front window for free then the rear window will also be free. Glass coverage covers the whole trucks glass not just the front window. No, I did not pay a deductible and my insurance did not increase do to the replace. Good luck!

 

In FL insurance companies are required by law to replace a cracked windshield b/c it is considered a safety hazzard, they have no choice. I will call about the rear one and see what they say, but I'm not gonna keep my hopes up.

 

First of all, I just found this BBS the other day and I want you to know that I am very impressed. You have some great information here. I only wish I had looked for a site like this earlier. It could have saved me a lot of grief.

Okay, as for the leaky rear window, I just had this problem fixed myself. I went to a glass shop we use for our fleet trucks. They told me that they've probably replaced 100 or better Ford rear sliding windows due to cracked frames. I ended up paying $155 for the rear window, $65 for labor and then tax. Initially I was going to go with just a standard rear window, but he told me that a solid window was around $400 installed (maybe someone could explain to me why a solid rear window is more than a slider). Well, there is no leak and now I have a metal frame instead of the plastic. Now I just need to figure out how to touch up the frame around the window. It has dulled to a light gray.