400 build ideas needed

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Old 01-03-2019, 10:18 AM
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400 build ideas needed

Hey guys, i'm trying to start gathering some info for a project that I'm going to be starting in the distant future. It's a '77 ford f150 4wd with a 400 and c6. It's going to have 35 inch tires and i believe it has 3.56 gears. I want to get as much horsepower out of this thing as possible on my budget and i want it to sound really really angry so this is what i was thinking so far. Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, Summit m2008 750cfm carb, long tube headers, have the heads shaved as much as possible, and a CamResearch custom cut camshaft. I just didnt know if there were some tricks to get the 400's to make good horsepower without going crazy ie. stroker kits, heads, complete ignition systems etc. If there are any tricks to get these gutless engines to wake up, please feel free to share lol. This is not my first engine build, but it is my first 400 build so i'm completely open to suggestions.
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:02 PM
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You’re recipe isn’t that far off, but I would change a couple of things. That carb would be too big. A 600 or 650 would be right. These engines don’t turn enough RPM to need such a carb. My second suggestion is most important. Don’t bother milling the heads. That would only give you a couple of tenths improvement at best. Your best bet would be to bore it and use the TMI pistons spoken about so much on this forum. If you really want it to run you MUST get the CR up and you can’t accomplish that without pistons or aftermarket heads. Pistons are the most economical route.

This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.

Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.

My $0.02,
 
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
You’re recipe isn’t that far off, but I would change a couple of things. That carb would be too big. A 600 or 650 would be right. These engines don’t turn enough RPM to need such a carb. My second suggestion is most important. Don’t bother milling the heads. That would only give you a couple of tenths improvement at best. Your best bet would be to bore it and use the TMI pistons spoken about so much on this forum. If you really want it to run you MUST get the CR up and you can’t accomplish that without pistons or aftermarket heads. Pistons are the most economical route.

This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.

Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.

My $0.02,
Thank you for your input! I will keep all of that in mind when i begin this build. The cam i was really wanting to use was a Comp Thumpr although i'm sure that even if i use flat top pistons, the engine still won't have enough compression for such a nasty cam. As for the 35s, I think that's what's on the truck now, but they could be 33s, I just took a quick glance at them. Whatever is on there now is probably what it's going to get back on it because it looks very balanced as is. Also, i see that you're here in Texas, where abouts if you dont mind my asking?
 
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:53 AM
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What is your budget?
 
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Old 01-05-2019, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SDDL-UP
What is your budget?
Don't really have a set budget, just whatever i can afford as i go. Not very high though. In other words, I'm not buying $2500 in heads.
 
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Old 01-05-2019, 06:24 PM
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The TMI pistons with properly prepared stock heads is a much better value than the expen$ive heads anyway.
 
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:59 AM
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i assume that these are the pistons everyone is talking about?

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/piston-set-ford-400/

By "properly prepared", i'm guessing you mean port and polished? I know it's kinda putting the cart before the horse, but about how much horse power do you think i would be making with this build? Long tube headers, four barrel intake, TMI pistons, comp ***** thumpr cam, 650cfm carb, and maybe a slightly upgraded ignition system.
 
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:54 PM
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I wouldn’t even be able to guess at a horsepower figure, but if it’s a big horsepower number you’re looking for, you’re working with the wrong engine. A 4” stroke engine is well suited for building low rpm torque. Horsepower is a calculated figure. In the calculation a torque peak at a higher rpm gives you a higher horsepower figure. Horsepower is basically indicating how much energy is made overtime. Very generally speaking, torque makes a car fun to drive while horsepower wins races. In a truck, torque doesn’t so much make it more fun to drive, but makes it more suitable for hauling or towing.

And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
 
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
I wouldn’t even be able to guess at a horsepower figure, but if it’s a big horsepower number you’re looking for, you’re working with the wrong engine. A 4” stroke engine is well suited for building low rpm torque. Horsepower is a calculated figure. In the calculation a torque peak at a higher rpm gives you a higher horsepower figure. Horsepower is basically indicating how much energy is made overtime. Very generally speaking, torque makes a car fun to drive while horsepower wins races. In a truck, torque doesn’t so much make it more fun to drive, but makes it more suitable for hauling or towing.

And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
I know that I won't be putting down any record breaking numbers. More than anything, I was just curious as to the estimated gains over stock. My dad built a 400 for his '72 f100 about 2 years ago that is pretty peppy when it runs as it should. I don't plan to build mine exactly as he built his though. His is just a stock internals engine that's been bored .040 and has had the heads shaved. It has long tube headers, an Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, Cam Research camshaft that was cut more for low end, and a FitTech of which I am not impressed. We've never had it on a dyno or anything, but it'll light up the tires from a 30mph roll if you stomp on it. If I were going for a higher horse build, I would probably build my spare 429. I'm still contemplating building that and swapping it in, but I really don't want to take the trouble even though there isn't much needed to swap it in since the bellhousings are the same and I can easily obtain engine swap motor mounts from numerous places. It's still an option I suppose. What would you do? Also, thank you for sharing your knowledge! You have been a great help!
 
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:12 PM
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Before you go and get your heads reconditioned, milled and reworked you may want to get some estimates and then see how much aluminum heads cost.

aluminum heads will also get you some quench if you get the right pistons. No quench with stock heads.

it takes a LOT of $ to get stock heads to flow anywhere near new aluminum ones and the aluminum heads will allow you to run higher compression with pump gas.

Another option might be to go with 4v Cleveland heads.
 
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:11 PM
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The most important thing is getting the compression up. You should also do some port work on the exhaust side and blend all the seats. A back cut on the valves will help as well. If you can afford it buy a set of one piece stainless valves. The stock 2 piece are not a good choice. It's not much $ to get your guides cut for pc seals and spring seat cups. Then it will be a lot easier to set the spring installed height and you will have a far better seat for the springs as well. Make sure you tell the shop to set all the valve tips at the same heights. You are probably going to end up needing a custom length push rod with all the machine work your doing.
 
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