400 build ideas needed
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Senior User
Joined: May 2018
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From: Hico
400 build ideas needed
Hey guys, i'm trying to start gathering some info for a project that I'm going to be starting in the distant future. It's a '77 ford f150 4wd with a 400 and c6. It's going to have 35 inch tires and i believe it has 3.56 gears. I want to get as much horsepower out of this thing as possible on my budget and i want it to sound really really angry so this is what i was thinking so far. Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, Summit m2008 750cfm carb, long tube headers, have the heads shaved as much as possible, and a CamResearch custom cut camshaft. I just didnt know if there were some tricks to get the 400's to make good horsepower without going crazy ie. stroker kits, heads, complete ignition systems etc. If there are any tricks to get these gutless engines to wake up, please feel free to share lol. This is not my first engine build, but it is my first 400 build so i'm completely open to suggestions.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
You’re recipe isn’t that far off, but I would change a couple of things. That carb would be too big. A 600 or 650 would be right. These engines don’t turn enough RPM to need such a carb. My second suggestion is most important. Don’t bother milling the heads. That would only give you a couple of tenths improvement at best. Your best bet would be to bore it and use the TMI pistons spoken about so much on this forum. If you really want it to run you MUST get the CR up and you can’t accomplish that without pistons or aftermarket heads. Pistons are the most economical route.
This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.
Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.
My $0.02,
This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.
Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.
My $0.02,
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2018
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From: Hico
You’re recipe isn’t that far off, but I would change a couple of things. That carb would be too big. A 600 or 650 would be right. These engines don’t turn enough RPM to need such a carb. My second suggestion is most important. Don’t bother milling the heads. That would only give you a couple of tenths improvement at best. Your best bet would be to bore it and use the TMI pistons spoken about so much on this forum. If you really want it to run you MUST get the CR up and you can’t accomplish that without pistons or aftermarket heads. Pistons are the most economical route.
This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.
Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.
My $0.02,
This a mid range engine and if built right will work wonderfully in the midrange so DON’T over cam it. Don’t undercam it either. 220@.050 or 230@.050. With stock heads I would stay with 220, and with aftermarket heads and a high stall converter maybe the 230 would be okay.
Also, think long and hard before the 35 inch tires. If you insist on them, don’t do it unless you do some SERIOUS brake improvement. I had 33’s on mine and even with power brakes in good condition I had to TROMP the brakes. The added rotating mass takes a LOT to stop. Having experienced 33’s I can’t begin to imagine how poor the braking would be with 35’s. BTW the gears are probably 3.50’s. 3.56 is not a ratio typically found in a nine inch.
My $0.02,
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: Hico
Don't really have a set budget, just whatever i can afford as i go. Not very high though. In other words, I'm not buying $2500 in heads.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2018
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From: Hico
i assume that these are the pistons everyone is talking about?
https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/piston-set-ford-400/
By "properly prepared", i'm guessing you mean port and polished? I know it's kinda putting the cart before the horse, but about how much horse power do you think i would be making with this build? Long tube headers, four barrel intake, TMI pistons, comp ***** thumpr cam, 650cfm carb, and maybe a slightly upgraded ignition system.
https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/piston-set-ford-400/
By "properly prepared", i'm guessing you mean port and polished? I know it's kinda putting the cart before the horse, but about how much horse power do you think i would be making with this build? Long tube headers, four barrel intake, TMI pistons, comp ***** thumpr cam, 650cfm carb, and maybe a slightly upgraded ignition system.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
I wouldn’t even be able to guess at a horsepower figure, but if it’s a big horsepower number you’re looking for, you’re working with the wrong engine. A 4” stroke engine is well suited for building low rpm torque. Horsepower is a calculated figure. In the calculation a torque peak at a higher rpm gives you a higher horsepower figure. Horsepower is basically indicating how much energy is made overtime. Very generally speaking, torque makes a car fun to drive while horsepower wins races. In a truck, torque doesn’t so much make it more fun to drive, but makes it more suitable for hauling or towing.
And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2018
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From: Hico
I wouldn’t even be able to guess at a horsepower figure, but if it’s a big horsepower number you’re looking for, you’re working with the wrong engine. A 4” stroke engine is well suited for building low rpm torque. Horsepower is a calculated figure. In the calculation a torque peak at a higher rpm gives you a higher horsepower figure. Horsepower is basically indicating how much energy is made overtime. Very generally speaking, torque makes a car fun to drive while horsepower wins races. In a truck, torque doesn’t so much make it more fun to drive, but makes it more suitable for hauling or towing.
And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
And.... yes those are the pistonsoften discussedand recommended here.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
Likes: 55
From: Bothell
Before you go and get your heads reconditioned, milled and reworked you may want to get some estimates and then see how much aluminum heads cost.
aluminum heads will also get you some quench if you get the right pistons. No quench with stock heads.
it takes a LOT of $ to get stock heads to flow anywhere near new aluminum ones and the aluminum heads will allow you to run higher compression with pump gas.
Another option might be to go with 4v Cleveland heads.
aluminum heads will also get you some quench if you get the right pistons. No quench with stock heads.
it takes a LOT of $ to get stock heads to flow anywhere near new aluminum ones and the aluminum heads will allow you to run higher compression with pump gas.
Another option might be to go with 4v Cleveland heads.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
The most important thing is getting the compression up. You should also do some port work on the exhaust side and blend all the seats. A back cut on the valves will help as well. If you can afford it buy a set of one piece stainless valves. The stock 2 piece are not a good choice. It's not much $ to get your guides cut for pc seals and spring seat cups. Then it will be a lot easier to set the spring installed height and you will have a far better seat for the springs as well. Make sure you tell the shop to set all the valve tips at the same heights. You are probably going to end up needing a custom length push rod with all the machine work your doing.
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