P20B9 Code?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 74
From: Houston TEXAS
I bought a bumper to bumper ESP for 8yr 100K miles. And I'm told the DEF parts fall under either the diesel warranty and/or the emissions warranty. So one way or another it should be covered. Worst case is my ESP has a $200 deductible.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,600
Likes: 83
The DEF heater is not covered by the diesel powertrain warranty and emissions warranty on these trucks is valid for 5 yrs from date of sale or 50,000 miles. When did you buy your truck? If you get it in under the factory emissions warranty in time then at least you avoid the ESP deductible.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 74
From: Houston TEXAS
It's important to note Ford's ESP Premium Care plan is not bumper to bumper. There are many expensive parts not covered, such as the DPF or EGR cooler. However, it does cover the "DEF system" excluding the catalyst (I guess that's the DOC?) so it looks like you're in good shape to avoid this $850 repair out of pocket.
The DEF heater is not covered by the diesel powertrain warranty and emissions warranty on these trucks is valid for 5 yrs from date of sale or 50,000 miles. When did you buy your truck? If you get it in under the factory emissions warranty in time then at least you avoid the ESP deductible.
The DEF heater is not covered by the diesel powertrain warranty and emissions warranty on these trucks is valid for 5 yrs from date of sale or 50,000 miles. When did you buy your truck? If you get it in under the factory emissions warranty in time then at least you avoid the ESP deductible.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,902
Likes: 26
From: BA, OK
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 8
From: Lubbock
Some states make them cover it longer. California comes to mind...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 74
From: Houston TEXAS
Just a quick update. Got the truck back Wednesday eve. They replaced the DEF tank heater. It was covered under emissions warranty. No money out of pocket. Everything seems back to normal, no check engine light, no codes, and power is back to normal levels.
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
New guy here.
My 2013 F250 6.7 threw the P20BA code last week. I was able to get it cleared by a friend with a OBD but it came on again today. According to my research there are quite a few issues with the reductant heater performance. Enough for Ford to issue an extended warranty apparently. I called my local dealer and of course Out Of Warranty (127k miles) and they are wanting $300 just to diagnose the issue. Really?
My concern is...why would the PCM detect an issue with the functionality of the DEF tank “heater” when it’s over 100 degrees outside here in Texas??? Most of the posts I read suggest the code should only throw when it’s extremely cold, since the reductant heater is designed to warm the DEF tank to prevent the crystallization of the fluid during freezing temps? What am I missing? The truck acts fine right now with no loss of power but I dang sure don’t like the CEL being on. Any suggestions? I hate to be out $300 let alone $900+ IF they say the heater and sender assembly needs replacing....especially if that’s not even the problem. I’m also afraid I may be playing with fire by waiting to address it and don’t want it to go into limp mode.
My 2013 F250 6.7 threw the P20BA code last week. I was able to get it cleared by a friend with a OBD but it came on again today. According to my research there are quite a few issues with the reductant heater performance. Enough for Ford to issue an extended warranty apparently. I called my local dealer and of course Out Of Warranty (127k miles) and they are wanting $300 just to diagnose the issue. Really?
My concern is...why would the PCM detect an issue with the functionality of the DEF tank “heater” when it’s over 100 degrees outside here in Texas??? Most of the posts I read suggest the code should only throw when it’s extremely cold, since the reductant heater is designed to warm the DEF tank to prevent the crystallization of the fluid during freezing temps? What am I missing? The truck acts fine right now with no loss of power but I dang sure don’t like the CEL being on. Any suggestions? I hate to be out $300 let alone $900+ IF they say the heater and sender assembly needs replacing....especially if that’s not even the problem. I’m also afraid I may be playing with fire by waiting to address it and don’t want it to go into limp mode.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
Likes: 74
From: Houston TEXAS
New guy here.
My 2013 F250 6.7 threw the P20BA code last week. I was able to get it cleared by a friend with a OBD but it came on again today. According to my research there are quite a few issues with the reductant heater performance. Enough for Ford to issue an extended warranty apparently. I called my local dealer and of course Out Of Warranty (127k miles) and they are wanting $300 just to diagnose the issue. Really?
My concern is...why would the PCM detect an issue with the functionality of the DEF tank “heater” when it’s over 100 degrees outside here in Texas??? Most of the posts I read suggest the code should only throw when it’s extremely cold, since the reductant heater is designed to warm the DEF tank to prevent the crystallization of the fluid during freezing temps? What am I missing? The truck acts fine right now with no loss of power but I dang sure don’t like the CEL being on. Any suggestions? I hate to be out $300 let alone $900+ IF they say the heater and sender assembly needs replacing....especially if that’s not even the problem. I’m also afraid I may be playing with fire by waiting to address it and don’t want it to go into limp mode.
My 2013 F250 6.7 threw the P20BA code last week. I was able to get it cleared by a friend with a OBD but it came on again today. According to my research there are quite a few issues with the reductant heater performance. Enough for Ford to issue an extended warranty apparently. I called my local dealer and of course Out Of Warranty (127k miles) and they are wanting $300 just to diagnose the issue. Really?
My concern is...why would the PCM detect an issue with the functionality of the DEF tank “heater” when it’s over 100 degrees outside here in Texas??? Most of the posts I read suggest the code should only throw when it’s extremely cold, since the reductant heater is designed to warm the DEF tank to prevent the crystallization of the fluid during freezing temps? What am I missing? The truck acts fine right now with no loss of power but I dang sure don’t like the CEL being on. Any suggestions? I hate to be out $300 let alone $900+ IF they say the heater and sender assembly needs replacing....especially if that’s not even the problem. I’m also afraid I may be playing with fire by waiting to address it and don’t want it to go into limp mode.
$300 just to diagnose sounds high. First dealer I went to charged $89 to diagnose if it was out of warranty. Then they'd credit that to the repair cost if you let them do the work.
Mine felt/drove fine until I tried to get on it hard, like getting on the freeway or passing, then you could tell it was lacking power.
I'm not sure if ignoring the issue (while it's hot outside and the heater isn't needed) will cause any long term problems or limp mode.
If it's gonna cost you nearly $1000 to fix, and you're out of warranty.... I'd say that money would be better spent toward a delete.... if you can do it in your area.
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Mine went out on a really hot Texas day too. Weird.
$300 just to diagnose sounds high. First dealer I went to charged $89 to diagnose if it was out of warranty. Then they'd credit that to the repair cost if you let them do the work.
Mine felt/drove fine until I tried to get on it hard, like getting on the freeway or passing, then you could tell it was lacking power.
I'm not sure if ignoring the issue (while it's hot outside and the heater isn't needed) will cause any long term problems or limp mode.
If it's gonna cost you nearly $1000 to fix, and you're out of warranty.... I'd say that money would be better spent toward a delete.... if you can do it in your area.
$300 just to diagnose sounds high. First dealer I went to charged $89 to diagnose if it was out of warranty. Then they'd credit that to the repair cost if you let them do the work.
Mine felt/drove fine until I tried to get on it hard, like getting on the freeway or passing, then you could tell it was lacking power.
I'm not sure if ignoring the issue (while it's hot outside and the heater isn't needed) will cause any long term problems or limp mode.
If it's gonna cost you nearly $1000 to fix, and you're out of warranty.... I'd say that money would be better spent toward a delete.... if you can do it in your area.
And yes, you’re right. I can drop another $1K and just roll coal and be done with all the emissions crap. 🤨
1st Gear
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thank you for posting this. I had the same thing happen and just got off the phone with my local dealer and it is covered under the Customer Satisfaction Program. One thing the dealer did tell me was to be sure not to reset the code when you bring it in, because the code has to be active in order for it to be covered.
I cannot say thank you enough for this information, I was planning on replacing it myself until I found this thread.
I cannot say thank you enough for this information, I was planning on replacing it myself until I found this thread.
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