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Transfer Case, lessons learned.

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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 10:26 PM
  #1  
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Vegetable0
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Transfer Case, lessons learned.

This is a unique case of bad luck. I not too long ago switched my truck from 2wd to 4x4, and I used an older Transfer case when I did. BW 1356, with about 400,000 miles on it when it finally puked up it's guts and the pump nuked it. So, I then replaced it with another junk yard BW 1356 out of an 1988 F350, that they say, looked clean and had no issues they knew of. Run and drove they said... Well 2wd never felt very engaging, like it was slacked and stuck in 4x4... So, I just heard it give out, and decided to do an autopsy to see what went wrong. The final diagnosis: When it was pulled from the truck at the junk yard, they forgot to disconnect the links and pulled her out the fun way, this broke the mode select fork and caused some awesomeness.


The culprit...

The first victim.

The fun day it gave me.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2018 | 01:34 AM
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DarkOverCast
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I find it really hard to trust anyone or any company when I hear stories like this.

I suppose your on the right path using the 1356 vs the 1345 as it's supposed to be better but I'm a sucker for the fixed yoke as the output shaft seals seem to last forever. I have yet to have any trouble out of mine (1345)
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 05:49 PM
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So you are blaming the guy who pulled it? I dont see how you came to that conclusion. Any other evidence?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bashby
So you are blaming the guy who pulled it? I dont see how you came to that conclusion. Any other evidence?
The multitude of evidence. Direction the mode fork was broken. Slack in the shift lever, mis alignment due to it being all roughed up. You can beat on these parts pretty hard. But ultimately steel links are much stronger than the aluminum mode fork. The evidence and the fact the t case sat on a shelf for a year, with chunks of the level and shift assembly coming out the drain hole. It was pulled the fun way, these links are not fun without the proper tool. Do I know for sure? No... but I know what happened. It is enough to convince me.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2019 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
I suppose your on the right path using the 1356 vs the 1345 as it's supposed to be better but I'm a sucker for the fixed yoke as the output shaft seals seem to last forever. I have yet to have any trouble out of mine (1345)
Get a fixed yoke 1356 from a Bronco. I have one of those and a married NP205 under my bench, eventually one or the other will get gone through and replace the 208 in my truck. The 1356 if used will have the pump arm fixed. The 205 will require some crossmember modification to work.

Currently a fixed yoke 208 and I had to replace leaky seals. not my first 208 with leaky seals either, but they're easy to replace. Often they leak because of work bearings though, in the front at least. Not as easy a fix and IMO it's not worth putting money into a 208 as they're basically driveline fuses. Used to carry a spare in the bed when offroading and swapped them on the trail often. I've popped them in low range at idle and screaming at 6500 RPM, they're just weak.
 
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