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So I got this cool old Ford with my son about a month ago. It drove on the trailer with a fuel line to the pump from a gas can. I'm no stranger to engines but not a pro. I wheel a 94 xj on 42's. After we got it repaired form the encounter with a horse we were able to get it someone running. I then proceeded to remove all the old cracked vacuum lines and emission crap on the motor. At that time I did not realize the distributor needed vacuum to set timing.... I'm accustomed to OBD1 and OBD2 FI stuff. So I need some pointers and advise on where to go now. Is there a place or thread or write up that is detailed on what lines are needed and where they need to be? I did find this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...parts-etc.html Post 9 if it had images might be a huge help. Any help or threads that might help would be great. Currently I have a truck that does not want to start and it backfires through the carb and exhaust which I believe is a result of my pulling the vacuum lines.
You do not have a vacuum line to your distributor and no where to put it correct? Your engine was OBDI, with a throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, oxygen sensor, etc, even though it still uses a carb. Most people swap the dsitributor out with a older model that does have a vacuum line and controls the timing mechanically, and they also swap out the carb for a older style that doesn't have all the wires. That is probably what you need to do unless someone has converted it already.
What Franklin2 said is correct, if the truck is still original. Beginning in 1984 [49 state] and going through 1986, the 4.9L engine had the "feedback" ignition and carburetion system. Check the bottom of the distributor and see if it has a bundle of electrical wires or a vacuum line?
What did this FI system look like? This is a 1984 truck. So how do I need the vacuum lines to run from the distributor to the carb? I was messing with this a little after work yesterday. The key is not working right and I suspect the ignition switch. Basically it will stick in the start position. Could it be not sending the required voltage in the run position which in turn shuts it down? Is there a test method for this? Thank for any help here.
The keyswitch sticking is a common problem with these trucks. Cold weather makes it worse. I would drown the upper part where the key goes in with wd40, and unbolt the column and let it drop down to the seat and replace the ignition switch which is the electrical part of the switch. Till then, a light wiggle after you start it should bring it back in position.
Since you have a vacuum line on your distributor, you do not have the computer controlled engine. All you need to do once you get it running good is find a vacuum port on the carb that will not suck on your finger at idle, but does when you rev it up. Once you find that port, hook a rubber line from there directly to the distributor. Until you get it running correctly, I would leave the dist vacuum line disconnected.
P.S. CAUTION! If you have a automatic, before you drop the column disconnect the little plastic cable line that hooks to the column and operates the PRND21 indicator. If you forget this it will break.
What did this FI system look like? This is a 1984 truck.
The feedback system was not F.I.. It was what Ford did just prior to the F.I. It was a carburetor which had some capabilities of varying fuel mixture based on input from a MAP and Oxygen sensor. I cannot tell from the carburetor photo, but on the driver's side, toward the front of the carburetor would be what looks like a solenoid with wires attached. If your carburetor does not have this, then it has been swapped for an earlier model. The metal box located on the driver's side inner fender is the Duraspark ignition box, which is what was used for the ignition of the earlier models.
Here are some more of the mess I started with. I'm going to see if I can find out what should have 12 volts with the key in run. The more I tinker with it and think about it the more I think it's either loosing voltage when it goes from start to run.
The carb and vacuum lines before I started removing them. The mess I removed. The motorcraft "computer" is on the Driver inner fender.
I checked the coil. It has 12v on the hot wire. I guess I need to check and confirm spark on the coil wire and each cylinder. next. Going to clean up the key but I was thinking graphite over WD40. I made another post earlier with more pictures but done see it.
I Currently I have a truck that does not want to start and it backfires through the carb and exhaust which I believe is a result of my pulling the vacuum lines.
Your truck= F-?50
4/2WD ?
When you get the chance, photo the other sides of your Carb.
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