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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

84 4.9 starting running issue....

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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:02 PM
  #16  
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You should have a diagram sticker on the radiator support that tells you where it goes.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Where does the Yellow vacuum line attached to the Dizzy connect to ?
I've tried on a couple different vacuum ports on the carb. From what I understand this should start and idle. The vacuum line comes into play when you rev it up and it advances the timing.

 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
You should have a diagram sticker on the radiator support that tells you where it goes.
I think originally he had a DuraSpark Dizzy in there, so his VECI sticker won't have a connection for for a vacuum Dizzy.
I do see his sticker in the photo, maybe some dishwashing detergent and a soft non-abrasive sponge will reveal it....
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by xjghost
I've tried on a couple different vacuum ports on the carb. From what I understand this should start and idle. The vacuum line comes into play when you rev it up and it advances the timing.
Is that the Yellow hose I saw plugged into the Bowl Vent Valve ?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by xjghost
I've tried on a couple different vacuum ports on the carb. From what I understand this should start and idle. The vacuum line comes into play when you rev it up and it advances the timing.
This is how they connected the vacuum to the Dizzy in 1983...

"S" is the DIZZY port....
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 03:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
I think originally he had a DuraSpark Dizzy in there, so his VECI sticker won't have a connection for for a vacuum Dizzy.
I do see his sticker in the photo, maybe some dishwashing detergent and a soft non-abrasive sponge will reveal it....
I think you mean he may have originally had a EECIV distributor correct? And someone has converted it to a duraspark II. Like I said, this could be truck from Canada, they had some without the computer control from the factory. A picture of his sticker would help.

 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 04:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I think you mean he may have originally had a EECIV distributor correct? And someone has converted it to a duraspark II. Like I said, this could be truck from Canada, they had some without the computer control from the factory. A picture of his sticker would help.
Well. I did think about that, but, if that is his original Carb (non Feed-Back), it does not have the ISC motor, but in it's spot is a Kicker. Also, no TPS on that Carb. (Canada 4.9L did not have kicker in 1984)
I believe you could get the 4.9L in DuraSpark or EEC in 1984, but I'm not positive.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 04:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by xjghost
I've tried on a couple different vacuum ports on the carb. From what I understand this should start and idle. The vacuum line comes into play when you rev it up and it advances the timing.
Don't let this vacuum line hang you up. The truck will run fine without the dist vacuum line hooked up. It only affects your fuel mileage. If it still won't run you still have other problems. You can wait and worry about the dist vacuum line later. The dist has mechanical weights inside it that advance the timing according to rpm.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 04:17 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by xjghost
Currently I have a truck that does not want to start and it backfires through the carb and exhaust which I believe is a result of my pulling the vacuum lines.
True, the vacuum line can wait.
Maybe a timing check and a compression check is in order....?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 05:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Don't let this vacuum line hang you up. The truck will run fine without the dist vacuum line hooked up. It only affects your fuel mileage. If it still won't run you still have other problems. You can wait and worry about the dist vacuum line later. The dist has mechanical weights inside it that advance the timing according to rpm.
That is what I was going to say, plug all the vacuum ports to get it running then go back and hook up the 3 or 4 lines you need.

As he knows he should hook up the dist. vacuum. and maybe the valves on the air filter housing.
If he has AC he needs a vacuum supply for the controls.
PCV needs to be hooked up.
Power brake booster needs vacuum.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 3, 2019 | 12:04 PM
  #26  
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Ok So a little update. I pulled the carb and opened it up yesterday afternoon. Cleaned in the bowl and jet area and all over the inside and outside of the carb. Yes I used carb cleaner. Still will not start and idle. I did get it to start with light pressure on the accelerator pedal. It's been suggested to clean the idle air screw passage.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2019 | 01:34 PM
  #27  
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If the idle circuits are clogged, then the engine will run above idle but not at idle speed. That's one good thing about carbs, they have several different fuel delivery circuits and they are all mostly independent from each other.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2019 | 04:14 PM
  #28  
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Does this help with your distributor vacuum line problem? Pic is from my 82 f100. Currently both red and yellow are hooked to the tree on bottom passenger side of carb. But my vac lines are a complete mess right now, does run pretty good though.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2019 | 07:10 AM
  #29  
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I think there were a couple regional ******* variations in between full-blown EEC-IV and regular old duraspark and this may be one of those.

Usually when a vehicle has sat unused for a while, the carb's jets get clogged with rust and varnish, and all rubber/gaskets dry out caused vacuum leaks around the carb. So, when I troubleshoot a mothballed vehicle like this, the first thing I do is completely rebuild carb. It only costs $20-$30 and a couple hours otherwise it probably won't run worth a crap and you're wasting your time.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2019 | 08:18 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by xjghost
Currently I have a truck that does not want to start and it backfires through the carb and exhaust
Have you checked your timing or verified Top Dead Center ?
Have you performed a compression check ?
 
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