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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

95 E350 no start

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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 02:29 PM
  #16  
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
It's a brand new relay and it shuts off when I turn the key off. I will check to see if it eventually shuts off next time I work on it.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 03:23 PM
  #17  
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Glow plug can stay on up to two minutes.

Now it they put a starter relay relay on it they will never shut off
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 12:26 PM
  #18  
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Got a chance to look at the van today. It does not have a tach. I unplugged the ICP and the connector was full of oil. Still no start with ICP unplugged. Is the oil in the connector a sign of failure soon?
Decided to pull the IDM to try it on my dads truck and it has water in it. Where is a good place to get one? I see some on Ebay for $225 with a lifetime warranty. Are they any good?
I left the key on and the glow plugs did eventually shut off, so I guess they are ok.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 01:50 PM
  #19  
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Do you have an auto recycler near? An IDM from any Ford 7.3 vehicle will work, in fact the 99-03 have a little more voltage in them. The oil in the ICP says that it is not long for this world.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #20  
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Local salvage yard wants $200, ebay has them for $170 after core or $225 with no core. I will order an ebay one unless I get a bunch of bad feedback from people here.

​​​​​​​thanks to everyone for all the help so far!
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 08:31 PM
  #21  
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From: Livoina,La
 
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 03:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bashby
What would.cause the glow plugs to stay on? I know someone was saying they can stay on a long time, but do they stay on after the light goes off? I think I left the key on for 4 or 5 minutes when I started to smell a burning smell. I'm pretty sure I got the wires hooked up right.
You need a ground isolated relay . You most likely are using a starter relay . you need a Napa GPR 109 IIRC.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 11:17 AM
  #23  
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Got the new IDM in and it started up. Seemed like it had a missfire so I unhooked VC connectors to isolate it. The drivers front one made little difference. Figured Id let it warm up and see if it cleared up. The up pipe going to the turbo from that side started leaking what appeared to be raw fuel. (Its a van so Im looking at it from the rear of the engine.) Im afraid it might have a hole in a piston on one of those cylinders. I guess the next logical step would be a compression test. Im hoping someone will have an idea of something less terminal.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 02:42 PM
  #24  
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Could it be an injector hanging open? As you stated, a compression check is in order.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 04:16 PM
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Is sticking injectors something that happens with the PSDs? Are there any other tests I can do? I dont own a diesel compression tester.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 04:45 PM
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I don't know of any tests for the injectors, other than to pull them and put them on a flow bench. My brother has a 2000 F350 that had around 270K on it when it got so it didn't want to start when the temps dropped to around 40 degrees, with out it being plugged in. The GPs checked out good, then it started "making oil". I swapped in some used injectors that were susposed to have around 70K on them, and both problems went away. Jim at Rosewood diesel says he doesn't see how the injectors could "make oil". but all is good after the injector swap.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 08:28 PM
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I had a hole in my piston last summer and it didn't leak fuel. I did of course have a miss and also a lot of white smoke.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 02:01 PM
  #28  
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Got back out to work on the van again. To recap, engine now runs but has a misfire. No smoke from tailpipe. There is what appears to be fuel seeping from the drivers side exhaust where it bolts to the Y at the turbo. Disconnecting the drivers front VC connector makes little difference. Other three make huge difference.

i pulled the two glow plugs on suspected cylinders. Cranking the engine made equal chuffing noise from each cylinder.. I made an adapter out of an old glow plug and put shop air into the cylinders. Both of them held enough that it pushed the pistons down until a valve opened. I rigged up a gas compression gauge but it had no check valve to hold pressure. Each time the piston came up un comp the gauge jumped to 180-200 then back to zero.
I think I may have an injector not atomizing fuel. How can I check this? Any other ideas of what to look at?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 02:34 PM
  #29  
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Been seRching for answers. I didnt realize I could run it with the VC off and not make a huge mess. I need to do that to isolate which cyl is missing. After that I can swap that injector with another cylinder and see if the miss moves with it.

​​​​​​​Im open for other ideas if ya got 'em!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 07:42 PM
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You have a bad ( broken) injector .
 
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