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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

95 E350 no start

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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 01:10 PM
  #1  
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
95 E350 no start

Just bought this van. It acted like it was running on 3-5 cylinders. Th PO said he has always had to use starting fluid in the winter. The GPR was clicking but not sending power to the GPs, so I replaced the GPR. The block heater cord was bad, so I replaced it also.The plugs at the valve covers were melted so I replaced the VC gaskets, harnesses under the VCs, and the pigtails on the outside of the VCs. I was hoping this would fix the missing also. Got it back together enough that it should start, tried it and cranks but wont start.

I had the key on and smelled something burning, and found out the GPR was not shutting off. Turn the key on, WTS light comes on, loud click from GPR, 10 seconds or so later light goes off but still have power on both big terminals. When I turned the key off the relay clicks and turns off power th the GPs. I disabled it for now.

I tried some starting fluid and it started once, revved up for a couple seconds, then shut off. I didnt try working the throttle to try to keep it running. A few other tries with a little starting fluid and it would not even do that.

It was 45 degrees outside. I had the block heater plugged in for a hour or more before trying it. I didnt see any white smoke while cranking.

​​​​​​​Where should I go from here?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 01:17 PM
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Maybe this will help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:13 PM
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Did you check to see if the GPs were good? The GP relay can stay egauged for a while after the light goes out, ( up to 2 minutes I believe) depending on air temps. What is the fuel pressure while cranking? Should be at least 20 lbs.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:21 PM
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I checked the glow plugs with a test light when I had the VC off. I replaced the one bad one with a Motorcraft GP.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:24 PM
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I did not check fuel pressure. I dont have a gauge but have been meaning to get one.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:26 PM
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I am loking at the flow chart now. As far as the tach moving verifying cps, do the vans have a tach? I didnt think to look for it.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:31 PM
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Do you have another truck with the Powerstroke engine that you could swap the IDM from the van into to see if the problem follows? Not sure where the IDM is located on the E series, on the OBS F series, it is on the drivers side fender liner. On the 99-03 f series you need to remove the fender liner to get to it.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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My dad has two first gen psd's I could swap parts on. Isaw the IDM today when I was working on it. Need to remove driers side battery to access.
Looking at possibilities on that flow chart, i saw the part about the fuel heater shorting out and blowing fuse 22. I have worked on this van for PO a few times. Once he had a no start and I think it was a blown fuse. I might have disconnected rhe heater back then and plugged it back in today. I will need to check that when I get time to work on it again. According to the flow chart my WTS light should not be working if that were the case, though.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2018 | 07:44 PM
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You don't need to remove the battery to get to the IDM. Its under the hood hinge and you don't have to remove all the bolts, just loosen them. Three 8mm bolts and a 10mm bolt to get the wire harness off.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
You don't need to remove the battery to get to the IDM. Its under the hood hinge and you don't have to remove all the bolts, just loosen them. Three 8mm bolts and a 10mm bolt to get the wire harness off.
I think he was talking about the van's IDM.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bashby
Just bought this van. It acted like it was running on 3-5 cylinders. Th PO said he has always had to use starting fluid in the winter.
This make me think armature clearance issue (Worn injectors).
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by farmert
I think he was talking about the van's IDM.
That's right, thanks for the correction.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fordpride

This make me think armature clearance issue (Worn injectors).
I hope not. Th PO did not know it had a block heater and I suspect the glow plugs haven't worked for the 10 years he owned it.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 12:08 PM
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What would.cause the glow plugs to stay on? I know someone was saying they can stay on a long time, but do they stay on after the light goes off? I think I left the key on for 4 or 5 minutes when I started to smell a burning smell. I'm pretty sure I got the wires hooked up right.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2018 | 01:58 PM
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Inside of the gpr it can melt together and gp will stay on. Under normal conditions (gpr works) the glow plugs will run 1 1/2 minutes to 2 minutes then go off.
 
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