When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
recently bought an old flatbed (95 f250 7.3) that had some shifting issues. OD light would be flashing around 50% of the time, always shifted hard, shifted harder in limp mode. Seller claimed his mechanic said it was the solenoid pack. Took it home, hooked it up to a scanner, threw codes for MLPS and Baro/MAP. Replaced the MLPS and the Baro (since the MAP was good and the line was new) and it is shifting normally.
My issue is, for the 3 days I drove it before replacing the parts, it had a decent amount of pep for an older truck. Now that I fixed the shifting issues it seems MUCH slower on acceleration. When I give it it's head it only feels a bit faster than my 4 banger Ranger. This is actually my first auto, so I'm wondering what's up. Did the computer overpressuring the lines somehow help my acceleration, or is there another issue that isn't throwing a code? This is my first diesel, and my first auto, so I dont really have a baseline for what feels normal. Thanks!
Bad Baro can cause hard shifting issues but they seldom fail. Bad MAP can cause poor power issues but they also seldom fail. How do you know it's good, what's the boost numbers when accelerating? If you unplug the MAP's 3 wire connection and take it for a spin and it runs much better the MAP itself might be bad, hose connection to it or a major boost leak. Truck will throw a CEL with it unplugged but will go away when plugged back in. It doesn't hurt anything to try this procedure.
Bad Baro can cause hard shifting issues but they seldom fail. Bad MAP can cause poor power issues but they also seldom fail. How do you know it's good, what's the boost numbers when accelerating? If you unplug the MAP's 3 wire connection and take it for a spin and it runs much better the MAP itself might be bad, hose connection to it or a major boost leak. Truck will throw a CEL with it unplugged but will go away when plugged back in. It doesn't hurt anything to try this procedure.
No difference plugged in or not, and line is recently replaced. It was for sure the baro, chucked a code, and hard shifting immediately stopped when replaced. Boost numbers all look normal from what I've looked up. At this point I'm just assuming it's an old sloppy transmission that doesnt handle acceleration well. I'm planning on throwing a John Woods in there sometime in the next 6 months, a long with some mild performance upgrades.
No difference plugged in or not, and line is recently replaced. It was for sure the baro, chucked a code, and hard shifting immediately stopped when replaced. Boost numbers all look normal from what I've looked up. At this point I'm just assuming it's an old sloppy transmission that doesnt handle acceleration well. I'm planning on throwing a John Woods in there sometime in the next 6 months, a long with some mild performance upgrades.
John Woods is a good choice. A couple things to check before going that route for a power issue ...
1. Check fuel pressure when idling, should be around ~ 50 PSI.
2. In cold climates the EBPV will close trying to warm the engine up faster. This causes loss of power big time unless you get on the throttle, but it takes a few seconds to respond.
3. On 2 above you can disconnect the EBPV via the 2 pin connector just in front and below the turbo. This will disable that function and most of us just leave it disconnected.
4. And of course proper grade oil that is designed for this diesel engine, no additives at all, ever.
Needless to say you probably know all this but your not giving a lot of information on what has been checked, except for a few sensors. Hard to troubleshoot on here without more info.
Originally Posted by Action4478
The trans most likely wont make the motor run better
I agree, if the transmission was slipping badly codes would be thrown with OD light flashing.