Hello!
I'm trying to get the cluster out of my '93, and so far have removed most of the front dash panel. Problem is the headlight pull switch and fuel selector switch don't want to budge! Does anyone know how to get these two items out of the way?

Jay
'93 F-150 XLT

 

Here's how you do it. First take off the headlight ****. Use a screwdriver, hook, etc. Pull switch all the way out (on). Put the small screwdriver in the small slot in the shank of the **** at about a 90 deg angle, pull the **** straight out while pushing on the release tab ( straight out too, same direction as you are pulling the ****) . Next pop off the two trim pieces (see pics) and remove screws behind them. Then just pull a bit till it pops loose. pull it out a ways and then just pull the plug off the back of the Fuel switch. Pull the dash piece off and there you are. There a few screws and the cluster comes right out (remember to pull the 2 plugs from the back of it.)

http://members.tccoa.com/charlez/fdash1.jpg
http://members.tccoa.com/charlez/fdash2.jpg

 

This info from charlez is right on. I swapped a tach cluster in place of the original no tach cluster in 45 minutes total time. I even reinstalled my original odometer. Thanks again charlez.

Doug
1966 Fairlane 500 428 2-4v MR 4/spd
1995 F-150 4x4 5.0 5/spd
Yahoo Club Ford FEver (332-428 FE)
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/fordfever

 

I also tried to swap a no tach cluster in my 95 with one from a 93 with a tach. Easy installation, but be careful with the gear indicator if you have an automatic, do not pull to hard on it or you will snap the plastic tubing.

I had one major problem that still is not sloved. With my new cluster the alternator was not charing and it would slowly drain the battery so that it would not run anymore. I finally switched back and everything charges just fine. I can only figure that the dummy batterly light, amp light??, is using a differnet pinout than on my original dash. I still need to trace the printed circut board on the back to see if I can just switch a couple wires or if the dash will not work in my truck.

Very frustrating.

Joey

 

Thanks for the help guys!

Jay
'93 F-150 XLT

 

Is there a handbook around that might tell what parts fit which vehicles? I'd like the same - instrument package.

 

 

1996 F250 XL 5.8 auto

Just swapped from a non-tach cluster to a tach cluster using original speedo/odometer. Same problem. Ran OK for a while then died - determined new alternator wasn't charging. Bench tested and alternator is fine. Had a few gauge problems (faces on gauges slipping and some lighting problems).
Tach worked for a while but speedo went out then speedo back but tach quit.

Frustrating.

Switching back but need to identify problems so I can re-install tach cluster!

Please help. Thanks.

Just found another similar thread> I hope this one helps me. Thanks!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1220561-93-f150-wont-charge-the-battery.htmlhttps://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1220561-93-f150-wont-charge-the-battery.html

Ray

 

What year is the tach cluster from?

 

1995, I think. Pulled from salvage truck.
Ray

 

Does the battery light illuminate during the initial startup? Could the resistor and the lamp be bad on the new cluster?
Just got my service manual and have not looked up any wiring diagrams yet, but the typical layout is for the ignition switch to feed the regulator's Green w/red wire 12v "through" the battery indicator lamp.
There is a bypass resistor circuit so that if the bulb burns out the Green w/red wire will still get power when the key is ON. If the bulb is burned out AND the resistor is not functioning, then the alternator will not charge.

In some cases the resistor is a twist-in socket thingy on the circuit board, similar to one of the lamp sockets. Not sure what they use on our year trucks though, but that's one of the styles I've seen on other vehicles.
I'm going to be doing the same mod soon, so hopefully we can get this figured out. I'll go check that link in Boss1Ray's post, but wanted to talk about the resistor before I forgot.

Good luck to all with charging issues!

Paul

 

Good interchangeably information here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...atibility.html

 

This may or may not help.
Recently switched from a no tach to tach cluster, and swapped my speedo to get correct mileage. Everything worked fine.....at first.
Next day noticed my volt gauge was reading wildly inaccurate, and I had light bleeding out from behind the volt and water temp gauges. Volt would read anywhere from 8 to 18 volts. And if you tapped the top of the dash, volt would jump all over the place and stick there.
Took it all back out, and discovered the "stickers" with the actual markings had come undone from the gauge face. Lined them up correctly, used a little scotch tape top and bottom to hold them in the correct place, everything works perfectly.
Apparently the "sticker" on my volt gauge being out of place was binding the needle.
Once the gauge cover is reinstalled, cant even see the scotch tape.
Again, dont know if that helps, but, over 200 miles later my problem is solved.

 

That's great. Even if it's not the fix for all the issues, it's a good thing to know, so thanks for bringing it up.

Paul

 

Almost hate to dredge this question up from literally 19 years ago(!), but not really... It's still a very legit concern.
Anyone watching this thread actually know how to "be careful" with this delicate thingy?

Do you have to disconnect the adjuster section from the lower dash, or does it just pop out? I had to snake my head up there pretty good on the '93 a few months ago to re-adjust it, but have not seen anything about removing it.
And how easy is it to disconnect the actual pull-cable part? Is it just a quick un-hooking, or is there a trick?

Thanks. I have a Hayne's manual that just arrived today, but wanted to throw this out there before digging into the book. Especially if it's only to find out they don't deal with that aspect! Been there, had that happen many times.
Waiting for the Ford version to show up soon.

Thanks.

Paul