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So you have a 2016 according to your profile.
Lets try to help here.
Your coolant is a DexCool variant from Ford. This coolant has 2-EHA in it as the inhibitor. Dex has been around a long time, proven over a couple bazillion miles, as long as a couple of things are carefully watched. First, Dex will oxidize rapidly in an open system. The 2016 is closed, OK there. The 2-EHA is a plasticizer, the gaskets in the Ford are chosen to be compatible, (unlike GM's faux pas with the lower intake gaskets on many V6's), and should be no problem. Testing? I agree with your service guy... reset the prompt and go. When it is time for a coolant change, switch to a diesel rated coolant, and keep on driving. Shell makes several diesel coolants. Ultra ELC would be a good choice. Coolant Tech
Transmission: I'm in the camp of drain and fill every 30,000 and filters every 60,000 when towing. There is a lot of heat there, fluid breaks down, it's cheap insurance.
Wheel bearings get checked and maintained when you get brakes replaced. If you are towing, you'll be doing that long before any interval on wheel bearings would come up anyway. 2wd, bearings get repacked, looks like 4wd bearing and hub are a single unit. SuperDuty brakes
Fuel: No way all fuel year round is winterized in Minnesota. No company, Amoco, Shell, whoever, is going to put stuff in the fuel that adds cost and reduces bottom line if it isn't needed. I'm sure you have seasonal changes though, so no need to do anything except fill up. I add Stanadyne every tank for cetane boost and lubricity, you should too. If you have downtime where the fuel will set for months, PowerService Clear Diesel will stabilize, and and a Biocide (StaBil or PowerService) of your choice should be added to inhibit algae growth.
Hope this helps.
The problem with your question about sell more maint vs sell more hardware is at least three fold.
a). Having 10k between oil changes looks good on paper for fleet operators-
b). The vehicle needs to last the warranty period. Fleet operators will reinvest after 5years
c). OEMs cost in terms of added risk by exending service intervals is off set by the added sales a lower maint vehicle projects. And beyond that, they will add the cost of warranting your vehicle to the price of next years truck- this is why truck prices are increSing beyond the consumer price index.
molybdate and nitrates are added to diesel coolant to coat the metal so when the fluid cavitates it will attack the chemical coating instead of pitting the metal. so you can add the additives or flush and replace the antifreeze with a diesel rated antifreeze. check out the 7.3l forums, that engine would eat thru cylinder liners without treatment. also check out diesel engine cavitation on the net
No Nitrates in the new 6.7L engines using Orange Coolant. Test strips better not show any Nitrates with Orange Coolant. If the test strips do show ANY Nitrates when using Orange Coolant, someone put the wrong coolant in.
This is an "old" thread now, but after getting very little use in the lat 15 months, the truck has finally hit about 65,000 right now. I'm going to have the transfer case serviced (they said it's just a dump and fill), and add the coolant additive - it says 1 oz per quart, so I'll get the quart of VC12, which the Ford dealer says is what's needed. I'm not SURE I need it since they had to drain the cooling system as 48,000 miles and SAID they added 50 gallons of coolant, but apparently it won't HURT anything, so I'm going to add the stuff.
Because we tow, I'm also thinking drain and fill the transmission, though every place I've talked to, except in here, says don't bother...
As far as the coolant additive - do I just add it to the two reservoirs and it'll get mixed over time?