Hello members,
Dropped the kid off at daycare this morning and hopped back in the 7.3 excursion and no start... theft light blinking.
Left key on run for over a minute, didn't go out... disconnected batteries for a few minutes... didn't reset anything...
Got out, recycled the keyfob lock, unlock... no go
Remembered 8 quick key cycles for adding a key fob, desperate ... no go...
Tried to check obd codes with hypertech programmer (came with truck) no codes and it kept saying turn key to the run position even though it had been turned to the run position.
Keyswitch? About to take the volt meter and second key back to the truck check fuses etc... left the batteries disconnected.
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance, between a rock and a hard place here

 

I don't know much about the Ex and their PATS (I think that is what it is called), but do you have a chip on the PCM? If so, I would try to remove that and get it back to stock and then try to start the Ex.

Someone with a bit more knowledge will be along shortly.

 

No chip, all stock minus the 4" exhaust.
Never had any leaky windshield either, and stays parked under a carport.

 

Hopefully just a wonky key... is the theft light blinking fast or is it on steady when the key is in/ignition on? Fast means incorrect/unrecognized chip in key, steady means waiting to "see" a key chip.

Not sure if the Hypertech programmer will read the manufacturer codes.

The Excursion forum gang may be more familiar with PATS... maybe cross-post there.

 

Does they mechanical operation of the key still feel normal?

 

Neither key works, Key feels fine in switch nothing unusual, all fuses under hood good...
Tried the key on until blinking slows, remove key 15secs and replace... still fast blinking.
Anyone know if snap-on scanners can disable pcm needing pats verification?

 

Is the theft light blinking in a pattern? I had a similar problem a few months back that ended up with needing a replacement PCM. Most of my troubleshooting and fixes are documented here.

 

 

I need to print that, along with the "no-start flowchart", and keep it in the truck.

 

The wait for fast blinking to stop, key out 30, then back in immediately begins fast blinking again.
After the slow blinking begins i do have the same 1blink pause 6blink as the video in the referenced post.
Ill drive back to it shortly and pull connectors to the fuel heater, ebp sensor, and icp sensor.... ofc i got rained on while checking fuses
***ADDITION*** will check #30 fuse under dash and whether wts light comes on, i think it did but may have been distracted by the theft light blinking.
Video link pasted here for clarification of which one,

 

Unleashed, did your original pcm that was sent to Diesel Technology of Chattanooga ever work again after finding the shorted fuel heater?
Found plenty of info on shorted fuel heater no starts being fixed with a new heater not killing the pcm and no theft light blinking.

 

Put it in Neutral and try to start it.

 

Did that earlier, no change... starter will run in P and N.
Rain stopped so im headed back to it now.

 

No, That PCM did not work. Had to cough up $$$$ for another PCM I still have mine adorning the shelf. I have a doubt that it might not have been the original PCM either and one of the 2 POs of the EX might have replaced it at some time in the past. But I am not sure how to confirm that either.

 

@mike71800b When you get back to your EX, check if there's fuel in the bowl. Also try to just disconnect the fuel bowl heater and then start. Be careful not to run the batteries down