Battery hold down bracket corrosion
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 188
From: Knightstown Indiana
At just under 2 years and 130k miles (this thanksgiving) my truck wouldn’t start. I had no previous indication there was a problem. I have always had issue with the original batteries weeping, and would remove the caps and clean up the mess. I never needed to had any water.
So, when the truck wouldn’t start I disconnected a battery, put my volt meter on the uncharged batteries, and using the glow plugs as a test load, I found the passenger side battery pulled down far greater than the drivers side. I charged the drivers side independently and even with the passenger battery disconnected the truck would not start. I swapped their positions and the truck would start on the one good battery.
I walked away with some observations and questions.
1. The passenger battery is primary. Although they are in parallel, and it’s a good sized cable that connects them, you still have to have a solid battery on the passenger side to start.
2. I’ve contemplated rotating the batteries, if one sees more load, would I get a longer life distributing the “wear”?
3. My truck often runs hours without significant electrical load, but still charges the charged batteries at a high rate. I recently had a rental 2018 Tahoe and found the volt meter would drop to 12v while on a long trip. I asked my ford master tech buddy about it and he acknowledged that new fords do that too, but the volt meter needle stays centered in the good zone to keep customer complaints down, but that the computer drops the charging rate to save fuel because of lower alternator drag. I suspect that the batteries will last longer because that extra charging adds heat, and heat kills batteries.
So, when the truck wouldn’t start I disconnected a battery, put my volt meter on the uncharged batteries, and using the glow plugs as a test load, I found the passenger side battery pulled down far greater than the drivers side. I charged the drivers side independently and even with the passenger battery disconnected the truck would not start. I swapped their positions and the truck would start on the one good battery.
I walked away with some observations and questions.
1. The passenger battery is primary. Although they are in parallel, and it’s a good sized cable that connects them, you still have to have a solid battery on the passenger side to start.
2. I’ve contemplated rotating the batteries, if one sees more load, would I get a longer life distributing the “wear”?
3. My truck often runs hours without significant electrical load, but still charges the charged batteries at a high rate. I recently had a rental 2018 Tahoe and found the volt meter would drop to 12v while on a long trip. I asked my ford master tech buddy about it and he acknowledged that new fords do that too, but the volt meter needle stays centered in the good zone to keep customer complaints down, but that the computer drops the charging rate to save fuel because of lower alternator drag. I suspect that the batteries will last longer because that extra charging adds heat, and heat kills batteries.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 769
Likes: 156
When I bought my 2014 F250 two months ago I noticed that the terminals and hold down clamps had quite a bit of corrosion (white powder) so I used the battery terminal protector kit that comes with two felt washers, cleaner, and protector spray. I removed both battery clamps and used the terminal cleaner tool to clean the corrosion from the clamps and then the terminals. I used the cleaner, wiped down the surfaces and then applied the protector on both terminals and connectors. Also sprayed the areas of the clamps that were affected. I've done this to all my cars and rarely ever have issues with corrosion at the terminals.
battery protector kit
battery protector kit
Senior User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
FWIW...My 2015 gasser with 45000 miles had the same corrosion. I cleaned the bracket up and repainted...seemed odd at the time that the corrosion would be so bad as to peel the bracket paint off and start rusting. Never had the problem on the 2001.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Spring Hill, SC
Maybe, maybe not. The issue could be the batteries venting due to normal charging at normal voltage levels. In this case going to an AGM type battery would more than likely correct the issue. If your alternator is over charging, correct this issue and your venting will go away.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Spring Hill, SC
An AGM battery can't leak. Well, I suppose it could leak it it broke open but those type of batteries don't have a liquid like a flooded cell battery. So the AGM battery could be masking the problem. Any overcharge by the alternator (I have two) could certainly be the problem. But if that's the case, why aren't both batteries exhibiting the problem? My driver side (the most common one that I've read about) was replaced this week due to corrosion.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 14
From: Utah
Wow! A much bigger response than I anticipated. THANKS TO ALL. Is there any way to reach out to Ford about this issue which does not seem to be a small one of type of issue? Knowing that batteries seem to have a very short life, having a 3 year old vehicle that needs 2 new batteries seems very odd to me?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
At 20° F it's a full volt higher, so 15+ volts is normal (and necessary) in extreme cold. A given charging voltage that would eventually ruin a battery in summer would just barely keep things topped off in winter. Be sure to take temperature into account when measuring alternator output. Chronic undercharging and the resultng plate sulphation are the main battery killers along with heat, and vibration. An external charger with 20 amp capability should extend dual battery service life considerably and would pay for itself quickly.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
My terminals were spotless but the tops of both batteries were wet and the hold downs corroded. Everything was good a month ago when I serviced the truck. Put in two new Interstate 850's today from Costco. 95 bucks each. Cleaned and repainted the clamps. Batterys were 4 year old Motorcrafts.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 286
Likes: 6
I asked my ford master tech buddy about it and he acknowledged that new fords do that too, but the volt meter needle stays centered in the good zone to keep customer complaints down, but that the computer drops the charging rate to save fuel because of lower alternator drag. I suspect that the batteries will last longer because that extra charging adds heat, and heat kills batteries.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 119
From: Tallassee, ALabama
I had the corrosion problem on both batteries in my 2015. I cleaned them and hold down with soda, installed the felt washers with plenty preventative over a year ago. To date, no more corrosion showing.
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