So my truck is a 2000 F350 7.3 automatic. A week ago my truck would crank but wouldn't start. It smoked a ton. I had noticed for a few weeks that the starter was turning over maybe a little slower than before. Batteries are less than a year old, they are Motorcraft batteries 850CCA. All connections are clean. So I change out the starter and fires right up. Starts great for a about a week.

Go out yesterday to run to the store, crank no start. This time no smoke. Temps haven't been bad here in Colorado, it's been low 50s during both these occasions. My WTS light comes on and stays on for the same length of time it always has. I have checked all my fuses (under hood and under dash) and they are good.

My fuel pump and fuel bowl / filter housing are new within the last 6 months. Both were replaced with Motorcraft parts. Trying to trouble shoot this I found my ICP has oil in the connector. So I ordered a new one and pigtail (Motorcraft). Still doesn't start with ICP unplugged. I'm showing RPMs on the tach so shouldn't be CPS, right?

My next thought is IPR. I have ordered one. I just don't want to replace these and find out it still doesn't start. What else should I be looking at?

 

I opened up the fuel bowl and replaced the filter. It looked fine, I usually replace every other oil change. I'm 1500 miles from when I was going to change it next. Made sure that fuel was filling the bowl before I put the cap back on, it was. Hooked up the jumper cables to the Bronco and charged the batteries since I ran them down trying to start it. Had the cables on each battery for about 5 minutes. Tried to start it and fired right up. How are these batteries bad already? Less than a year old and not a cheap battery either. I bought Motorcraft batteries because I have had great luck with them in the past and had a coupon that made then cheaper than Interstate batteries.

So I will be replacing the ICP and I guess I have a spare IPR now.

 

That's enough to make you wonder. It might not be the batteries, you might have an intermittent problem and only time will tell. I wouldn't throw those batteries out yet, get them fully charged and load test them.

 

 

Do you have any codes? Start with the "No-Start" flow chart and follow it religiously. Plug it in and see if it starts then. We need more data (HPOP numbers, batt voltage, rpms when cranking). In short, the injectors need to see the following to fire....10.5 volts, 500 HPOP pressure, 20 fuel pressure, and 200 rpms. If I missed something, someone will chime in. Start from the top and work your way down. I have learned this the hard way. Let us know how it goes. We'll get this thing going.

One more thing...check the pigtail to your IPR. Those wires up inside the pigtail can get exposed and touch each other and you'd never know. years of diesel, oil, and heat take a toll. Maybe jiggle that pigtail if all else fails and see if she fires.

FINALLY.....DO NOT use Ether.....that is all.

 

thats all it takes from me for the wife to get all hot n bothered..

 

Jumped it again this morning. Drove it to O'Reillys, alternator is putting out 14.4v. Disconnected the batteries and load tested both individually, they both tested fine. Truck started fine after that.

With a multi-meter im showing .375a draw on the batteries with everything off except the under hood light. That seems acceptable.

 

Hows the cranking sound/spins with authority? Buddy of mine cruised by last week complaining of truck baarreelly kicking over. After checking batteries and output at relay, i crawled under to inspect starter and found the problem. 1 of 2 bolts that secure the starter as a whole, was broke in half causing the guts not to be uniformed. Installed new starter and pa-pow!

 

 

 

Nope, not a chance...

I wouldn't even use blue loctite, especially with properly sized bolts and lock washers.

 

Yeah, I third no Loctite, especially red. Just proper sized bolts and you'll be good to go.

 

Might be a corroded PCM bracket ground. They are known to corrode and cause intermediate electrical gremlins.

 

Truck has been doing great. I have been carrying my multi meter and checking draw on the batteries everytime i park it over night. Always the same .375a. Drove to work 35 miles, it sat for 48 hrs in low single digit temps. Fired right up to leave work, drove it for 20 minutes shut it off parked for 8 hrs. Wont start. Multi meter showing .375a draw both batteries show 12.4v but wont start unless jumped. I do get a strange clicking under the dash when it cranks but wont start. That clicking goes away when jumping and it accually starts.

 

12.4 is low for voltage, 12.6 is about the bottom.