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Truck has been doing great. I have been carrying my multi meter and checking draw on the batteries everytime i park it over night. Always the same .375a. Drove to work 35 miles, it sat for 48 hrs in low single digit temps. Fired right up to leave work, drove it for 20 minutes shut it off parked for 8 hrs. Wont start. Multi meter showing .375a draw both batteries show 12.4v but wont start unless jumped. I do get a strange clicking under the dash when it cranks but wont start. That clicking goes away when jumping and it accually starts.
‘I’m wondering if your alternator is acting up. If you don’t have something that reads voltage in the cab get something like this and watch the voltage you’re getting. You should see high 13’s in the cab, in the area of 13.8, 13.9 + if you see it dropping below that I’d get the alternator tested.
Palumma Car Charger, 5V/3.6A Dual USB Port Safe Smart Quick Car Charger Adapter with LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning Volt Meter Car Battery Monitor (Black)
Just to put this into perspective, today I started my truck let it warm up a bit and admire the 7.3 signature sound.
The voltage reading off the battery on a cold truck a couple minutes after starting it was 14.36v.
When I shut the truck off the batteries read 13.42 about 30 seconds after turning the ignition off. That is a dramatic difference in battery charge levels from 12.4-12.6.
Just because they are 12v batteries doesn't mean they are fully charged at 12v.
Well, I started my truck up, ran to the post office and hardware store, left the truck running the whole time.
Came home parked it for about an hour and now it wont' start. Cranks like crazy but nothing. It's quite cold out so I'm going to wait until tomorrow before digging in to it. Couldn't believe it wouldn't start. It's been running great.
Helped a girl out today on her jeeps brakesjeep is fine now but she still needs some help someone used red lock tite on the caliper mounting bolts...36 in breaker bar and it was still rediculous to get them off. The red stuff is for something like a cylinder head bolt
Do you have any codes? Start with the "No-Start" flow chart and follow it religiously. Plug it in and see if it starts then. We need more data (HPOP numbers, batt voltage, rpms when cranking). In short, the injectors need to see the following to fire....10.5 volts, 500 HPOP pressure, 20 fuel pressure, and 200 rpms. If I missed something, someone will chime in. Start from the top and work your way down. I have learned this the hard way. Let us know how it goes. We'll get this thing going.
One more thing...check the pigtail to your IPR. Those wires up inside the pigtail can get exposed and touch each other and you'd never know. years of diesel, oil, and heat take a toll. Maybe jiggle that pigtail if all else fails and see if she fires.
Okay, I charged up the batteries and then plugged in FORScan.
KOEO readings:
Injector Control Pressure = 0
Exhaust Back Pressure = 12.6
Exhaust Pressure Absolute = 12.6
Manifold Absolute Pressure = 12.3
Barometric Pressure = 1.$
Barometric Pressure = 0.0 inHg
Fuel Pulse Width = 0.0 ms
Fuel Pulse Width #1 = 0.0 ms
PCM Codes:
P1690 Wastegate (always there even though everything is new and working)
P0230 Fuel Pump Monitor Circuit
P1662 IDM EN circuit fault
P0640 Manifold Intake Air Heater
P0670 Glow Plug Control Module (always there even though everything is new and working)
P0230 and P1662 are new to me. Where do I look for a problem?
The only thing it doesn't really tell you is to check the pigtail wire going to the IPR. Wiggle it and see if it starts. If it does,wiggle it and see if it quits. Check the insulation going right to the plug.
Okay, I charged up the batteries and then plugged in FORScan.
KOEO readings:
Injector Control Pressure = 0
Exhaust Back Pressure = 12.6
Exhaust Pressure Absolute = 12.6
Manifold Absolute Pressure = 12.3
Barometric Pressure = 1.$
Barometric Pressure = 0.0 inHg
Fuel Pulse Width = 0.0 ms
Fuel Pulse Width #1 = 0.0 ms
PCM Codes:
P1690 Wastegate (always there even though everything is new and working)
P0230 Fuel Pump Monitor Circuit
P1662 IDM EN circuit fault
P0640 Manifold Intake Air Heater
P0670 Glow Plug Control Module (always there even though everything is new and working)
P0230 and P1662 are new to me. Where do I look for a problem?
I have wiggled all the connectors but to no avail. Took a quick look at the fuses but didn't see anything that looked blown. Does anyone have a close up picture of checking the fuel line pressure?
Also, my batteries wear down very quickly. They are Interstate MT-65 batteries and the local supplier said they were never meant to be in a diesel truck. Only 25 months into a 5 year warranty. They give me one real good chance to start the engine and then die off quickly.
To check fuel pressure you'll need to tap into your fuel bowl and attach a gauge. The fuel bowl has two holes in the back of it, one high (pre filter) and one lower (post filter). They are 4 ORB's Riffraff sells adapters to convert them to NPT threads so you can attach a hose and a gauge and guys tape the gauge to the windshield and take it for a drive. There is no fuel pump monitoring through the PCM on our trucks. You can open the drain on the fuel bowl and turn the key on to verify that fuel is (or is not) making its way through the filter. It would be best to place a container under the truck to catch the fuel. The drain tube discharges down the front of the engine on the passenger's side, there is a steel tube over there about 3/8".
Fuel drains from valve.
ICP unplugged doesn't make any difference - no start.
ICP has no oil in it and appears fine.
All fuses checked out okay.
Oil level is good.
Connections all seem to be tight. I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be.
resolve the P0230 and P1662. Those are both serious clues, no IDM or fuel pump is certain to keep an engine from running. One may be causing the other but either way good chance that is your problem.
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