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Beautiful Sunday here in NC, did KOER test, codes displayed: 6,42,18. the truck is running a lot better. changed the MAP sensor, seemed to improve more. but when I slide the ac or heat to on position, the truck idle falls and starts to miss.
42 indicates that the system is running rich. Did you allow the truck to fully warm up before running the test?
18 is still there. Did you perform the testing outlined for this issue in my comment above? You could do a real quick check with a timing light:
Set up the light and start the truck, make sure to keep the light and it's wiring out of the engine fan.
Use the timing light to find the timing marks. Note the timing location.
Place the timing light somewhere safe while you unplug the SPOUT plug. Put it in your pocket so you don't drop it down into the engine bay...learned that one the hard way on my old 5.0 Mustang!
Check the timing again. It should have changed to around 10* (whatever your hood sticker says).
ok, I'm a little intimidated using timing light. never used one. but I want to try and get the 18 code cleared. I will check to see if I could borrow one. not sure if my truck has a hood sticker
ok, I got a timing light. and the best I can tell. it looks like about 10 btdc. trying to count the little grooves was impossible. but no change when spout connector removed. did the start up without connector and reconnected after idle resume. did KOER test getting 25r and 18. the truck is running really well. but still stumbles some, thanks again you guys for all the help
NOTE: Timing is not adjustable on Electronic Ignition
Engine off. Unplug the SPOUT connector in the (usually) yellow wire coming from the distributor connector (either in-line or shorting plug see figure below).
Restart engine, and with a timing light, set to specifications on decal (usually 10 degrees BTDC). Shut off engine and reconnect SPOUT wire.
To check timing advance the SPOUT must be hooked up. Start a running EEC test and when test starts (RPM’s go up) check the timing.
It should be advanced about 20 degrees (plus or minus 3 degrees) more than the original base timing. Since base timing is usually 10 degrees BTDC then the advance is usually to 30 degrees BTDC.
If it's really not advancing the timing with the SPOUT in, it could be an issue with the TFI module. Here's how to test that:
Code 25 is weird to see there. It means that the knock sensor didn't detect anything. As this book states:
One cause of code 25 is leaving out the SPOUT connector after checking or setting initial timing. CHECK THE SPOUT CONNECTOR.
The code 25 means no detonation was detected when the engine was "goosed" during the KOER test. Just before the dynamic response code, the timing is advanced to 20*btdc and locked there. With the timing this high, the engine should detonate "ping" slightly when goosed. Several things can keep the engine from detonating during the goose test:
Engine Problems: If the engine compression is reduced for any reason, it can inhibit the engine's ability to detonate.
Initial Timing: If the initial timing of the engine is retarded, the engine will be less likely to detonate.
If the fuel, engine, and initial timing have been ruled out as possible causes of code 25, begin by repeating the KOER test. This time, when the code 10 dynamic response is given, do NOT goose the throttle. Instead, tap on the exhaust manifold directly above the knock sensor with a hammer or wrench.
If, after doing this, code 25 is not returned, check the voltage between pins 23 and 46. This voltage should be between 1 and 4 volts. If it is, replace the Knock Sensor. If the voltage is less than 1 volt, check for a short on the Knock Sensor wiring. Also check to make sure the wiring isn't grounded. If the wiring checks out, replace the Knock Sensor. If the voltage is GREATER THAN 4 volts, check for an open in the Knock Sensor wire (pin 23 at the ECA connector) or the Knock Sensor return signal wire, at pin 46. If the wires are not damaged, replace the Knock Sensor.
ok, I got a timing light. and the best I can tell. it looks like about 10 btdc. trying to count the little grooves was impossible. but no change when spout connector removed. did the start up without connector and reconnected after idle resume. did KOER test getting 25r and 18. the truck is running really well. but still stumbles some, thanks again you guys for all the help
with the spout connector removed, set your base timing to 10 BTDC...
Looks like rain tomorrow, (Saturday), want to do more testing on that old truck. I'm thinking of buying a obd2 scanner for other vehicles, Which scanner would you suggest?
Looks like rain tomorrow, (Saturday), want to do more testing on that old truck. I'm thinking of buying a obd2 scanner for other vehicles, Which scanner would you suggest?
I use the Actron CP9185, but that does OBDI & II ..... There are cheaper ones out there..
hey ya'll , trying to use the timing lite. after cleaning the witness marks on the crank, I was able to see the timing grad. it looks like the timing is at 22 or 26 with spout connecter disconnected. with the electronic ignition not adjustable how do I get base timing? if cmp or cam position sensor is failing would there be a code displayed,
hey ya'll , trying to use the timing lite. after cleaning the witness marks on the crank, I was able to see the timing grad. it looks like the timing is at 22 or 26 with spout connecter disconnected. with the electronic ignition not adjustable how do I get base timing? if cmp or cam position sensor is failing would there be a code displayed,
You will have to loosen the Dizzy hold down bolt and turn the dizzy to set the timing to 10deg btdc with the Spout connector removed.
when I started truck with spout connector disconnected and allowed to idle, I reconnected spout connector and timing was at 30 t0 34. does this sound possible
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