Today I replaced ECT sensor. no change in the engine performance. Did KOEO test, codes displayed 67o, 10, and 11c Also did KOER test, codes displayed 6, 10, 12r, 41r and 18r. can anyone determine anything from that? I know the book describes 12r related to idle rpm out of range/high. 41r related to HEGO(H02S) sensor voltage low/system lean. 18r related to SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word(SAW) circuit failure.

 

So your 21r code went away when you replaced your ECT, that is an improvement.

41r - your engine could be running lean, or the O2 sensor is no longer connected, O2 sensor has failed, O2 sensor heater has failed (check fuse #5).
You need to troubleshoot this code 41, or install a new O2 sensor.

 

“The note at the top of page 33 is meant as a way to warm the engine to operating temperature is the engine is cold. If you had been driving the vehicle and/or the engine is already up to operating temperature then there is no need to run the engine for 2 minutes at 2000 rpm. It is not required for the test to be performed.”

I agree that the book assumes a cold-start up. But if the engine sits not running for just 5 minutes, the O2 Sensors without a heater will be cooled off & potentially creating false fault codes. If one leaves the engine running up to the point that they start testing, then no issues. Typically, someone starts up the engine from cold, lets it idle to warm-up and starts the test KOEO Self-Test. Now, the KOEO doesn’t test the O2. Then the engine gets turned off, everyone wanders into the garage to sort out what the codes mean, drink a beer, smoke some weed, then 15-? minutes later the engine is started, left to warm up, no 2K run-up, KOER is performed. So, I want to emphasize the 2K run-up, especially for the non O2 heater models. No Fords will be damaged performing multiple 2K run-ups, maybe chevy’s.

"How would you list an RPM level to reach?" I don’t think I can define this in RPM.

“You are supposed to mash the pedal to the floor and immediately release it?”
Yes, and the book states this, but when I have looked over new troubleshooters’ shoulders, they don’t take it to the floor. So, I am going to modify my note to emphasize going all the way to the floor vice what I have written.

“The tachometer, if you have one, would most likely lag behind the actual rpms anyway.”
Agree.

I might not be correct in saying that the computer is looking for the idle to WOT and back in the test but you are trying to induce a potential pre-detonation condition to test the knock sensor.”
I believe this is to test the voltage range and dead spots in the TPS.

“I would assume that it is looking at the other sensors for changes during that part of the dynamic test but I do not know that for certain.”
I assume the MAP is sensing the change of vacuum, MAF- a change in flow and TPS voltage range. Maybe the A/C shut-off relay during full throttle. All within specified parameters.

My intent is for the 1st time testers/posters, to avoid the 25 & 77 codes that they inevitably get from a sloppy Goose Test, and other issues I have observed. What I posted in post #19 has helped guide beginners, and made it easier to understand what they attempt to provide. I will combine these eventually when I get this right. Thanks for your input.

 

ok its the weekend and I got my new 02 sensor. going to install new sensor Saturday if its not raining.. hope that fixes it.. if not, more diagnostics...

 

replaced 02 sensor. no improvements with engine performance. Did KOEO test, codes displayed: 67o, 10 and 11c, KOER test, codes displayed 6,12r,18r and 25r.I guess I'm making progress, codes have disappeared for the sensors I have replaced, but still need some help.

 

Yeah, you are chipping away at the Fault-Codes, that’s always a good thing.
Code #41 is a good one to get cleared up.

Are you familiar with the SPOUT Connector related to your timing adjustment?

 

no, I'm not familiar with the SPOUT connector. but I would like to learn

 

ok, after some studying I've come to wonder if the universal ignition switch I installed a few years ago could have any effect?

 

See if you can find this Grey plug (SpOut) over near your Ignition Module, drivers side fender back towards the firewall.
Or where it would plug in...

 

I found the spout connector, I also did a KOER test, codes displayed 6,12,41r and 18, here is the 41 again. low voltage,system lean. during warm up, engine idle improved some but when I goosed it, it return to fluctuating up and down idle

 

This guy copied the diagnostic subroutine procedures from the Ford manual: Diagnostic Sub-Routines

The 6 is expected if you've got the 4.9l. The very first number returned is the number of cylinders. If it is the 4.9, make sure the clutch is depressed during these tests.

12: Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low). I assume you've already checked the IACV's connections for cracks or corrosion? If not, do that. You might also want to pull it and check for excessive fouling. Don't forget to get a new gasket!

18: SPOUT circuit open. Check base timing & advance function: Diagnostic Sub-RoutinesDSR-3.0 CHECK BASE TIMING

• Key off.
• Transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL.
• Turn off electrical loads (A/C, heater, etc.).
• Disconnect the in-line SPOUT connector.
• Start engine (do not use a remote starter, only use the ignition key to start engine).
• Check base timing. Refer to the Ignition/Engine Group in the Service Manual for specific instructions. (For 2.3L Dual Plug, use exhaust side plug. If timing light does not light, go to Diagnostic Sub-Routine 5.0.)

DSR-4.0 VERIFY PCM CONTROL OF TIMING

• In-line SPOUT connector disconnected.
• Start engine and let idle.
• Reconnect the in-line SPOUT connector.

41r: Oxygen sensor signal, System lean. Dunno about this one. Check the O2 sensor wiring for cracks. While you're down there, make sure the wiring is clear of the exhaust header. Zip-tie it out of the way if needed (PO of my truck had it resting on the header!). If you keep getting it, test the O2 sensor for voltage and resistance.

 

thanks Tractor150, I have not checked the IACV, that will be my next area to explore

 

Pull the SPOUT apart, clean the plug and the connector socket with electrical cleaner, and put it back together.

 

hey y'all , today is Saturday, and I finally have time to work on my truck. I did the cleaning of the IACV. and cleaned the spout connector, also cleaned the connections at tps. And it made a big difference. the truck is running a lot better. I'm going starting driving it to work again. It still has a miss. but nothing like before. I'm going to do another test tomorrow. You guys are truly brothers. thank you for all your help

 

Happy to help, man. Let us know how it goes, what codes you get, if any.