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Did a search for torque values on the front wheel bearings. Found all kinds of info .. FOR 4wd nothing for 2wd. The truck is a 1977 XLT 2wd 400 and a C6.
22-25 ft lbs while rotating the rotor in opposite direction, then back off 1/8 turn, install nut retainer, cotter pin & dust cap....applies to F100-F350 2wd & the E100-E350.
I've never had my rotors off on my or any Dent, but if they go on like most RWD car front rotors I've messed with, then you can probably rely on the old advice to tighten them up by feel. It's always worked for me.
If I'm not mistaken, the torque you want to be measuring is the drag on the rotor as the rotor/bearings are tightened down.
It doesn't hurt to go back and lift the wheel after driving it a few or several miles, and checking for any bearing play by trying to move the wheel in and out - you just have to be careful and rule out any play in the tie-rods or king pin/ball-joints.
Thanks Guys.. muchly appreciated. Keeps me going on the build. That will almost complete the front suspension. I say ALMOST cause I still have to install the front sway bar. But for that I need the weight on the front tires with the engine and stuff installed. That'll be a while yet.
Old rule of thumb was to put the end of a flat-blade screwdriver between the bearing washer and the rim of the opening; twist the screwdriver to move the washer. Tighten the nut till it starts to become difficult to move the washer; back off till the washer slides smoothly with just a little effort twisting the screwdriver, lock it down there. Recheck after you have driven it a ways and adjust as needed. Takes longer to explain than to do.