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Wheel Bearing Problems - Need Help !!!

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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 09:48 AM
  #1  
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Luftstrom
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Wheel Bearing Problems - Need Help !!!

This may brand me a total beginner but I need help ! My 2005 Excursion is up on jack stands until I can figure this out. I spent hours on the forums but could not find an answer.
I had to replace my front rotors and got Powerstop Rotors, Timken inner and outer bearings and a Timken seal. The rotors come with races pre-installed.

When I reassemble the rotor and bearings I am unable to get the nut tight enough to allow for the cotter pin to go through the hole. The specs call for a preloading torque of 30 ft/lb, loosening, re-torquing at 20 ft/lbs, loosen 1/2 turn and final torque at 17 in/lbs. Following this, the hole is cover by 1/4 by the nut. This is just enough to not allow the cotter pin to go through especially with the castle lock on top.
If I tighten to 50-60 ft/lb I can get enough clearance to insert a smaller cotter pin but the rotor has some resistance (a bit harder to turn),
With the original rotor there was about 2-3 mm between the nut an the hole where the pin goes.
Can anyone help ?

Thanks a bunch !
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 12:53 PM
  #2  
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seville009
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I can't help you mechanically, but the first thought that I had was to check to make sure that you have the right bearing. Maybe there are slight differences between similar models. Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 03:53 PM
  #3  
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mpriester
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Originally Posted by Luftstrom
This may brand me a total beginner but I need help ! My 2005 Excursion is up on jack stands until I can figure this out. I spent hours on the forums but could not find an answer.
I had to replace my front rotors and got Powerstop Rotors, Timken inner and outer bearings and a Timken seal. The rotors come with races pre-installed.

When I reassemble the rotor and bearings I am unable to get the nut tight enough to allow for the cotter pin to go through the hole. The specs call for a preloading torque of 30 ft/lb, loosening, re-torquing at 20 ft/lbs, loosen 1/2 turn and final torque at 17 in/lbs. Following this, the hole is cover by 1/4 by the nut. This is just enough to not allow the cotter pin to go through especially with the castle lock on top.
If I tighten to 50-60 ft/lb I can get enough clearance to insert a smaller cotter pin but the rotor has some resistance (a bit harder to turn),
With the original rotor there was about 2-3 mm between the nut an the hole where the pin goes.
Can anyone help ?

Thanks a bunch !
It's a good idea to use the races that come with the bearings. Are the races in the rotors fully seated and are the rotors fully seated on the spindle?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 12:30 PM
  #4  
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Luftstrom
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From: Colorado
Problem solved

Thanks fro everybody's help. I ended up measuring the bearings and the rotor and comparing them to specs. Go figure, the rotors were both out of specifications ! Enough to make me think they were boxed wrong. No indications on the rotors themselves as to what model they were.
 
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