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This may brand me a total beginner but I need help ! My 2005 Excursion is up on jack stands until I can figure this out. I spent hours on the forums but could not find an answer.
I had to replace my front rotors and got Powerstop Rotors, Timken inner and outer bearings and a Timken seal. The rotors come with races pre-installed.
When I reassemble the rotor and bearings I am unable to get the nut tight enough to allow for the cotter pin to go through the hole. The specs call for a preloading torque of 30 ft/lb, loosening, re-torquing at 20 ft/lbs, loosen 1/2 turn and final torque at 17 in/lbs. Following this, the hole is cover by 1/4 by the nut. This is just enough to not allow the cotter pin to go through especially with the castle lock on top.
If I tighten to 50-60 ft/lb I can get enough clearance to insert a smaller cotter pin but the rotor has some resistance (a bit harder to turn),
With the original rotor there was about 2-3 mm between the nut an the hole where the pin goes.
Can anyone help ?
I can't help you mechanically, but the first thought that I had was to check to make sure that you have the right bearing. Maybe there are slight differences between similar models. Good luck.
This may brand me a total beginner but I need help ! My 2005 Excursion is up on jack stands until I can figure this out. I spent hours on the forums but could not find an answer.
I had to replace my front rotors and got Powerstop Rotors, Timken inner and outer bearings and a Timken seal. The rotors come with races pre-installed.
When I reassemble the rotor and bearings I am unable to get the nut tight enough to allow for the cotter pin to go through the hole. The specs call for a preloading torque of 30 ft/lb, loosening, re-torquing at 20 ft/lbs, loosen 1/2 turn and final torque at 17 in/lbs. Following this, the hole is cover by 1/4 by the nut. This is just enough to not allow the cotter pin to go through especially with the castle lock on top.
If I tighten to 50-60 ft/lb I can get enough clearance to insert a smaller cotter pin but the rotor has some resistance (a bit harder to turn),
With the original rotor there was about 2-3 mm between the nut an the hole where the pin goes.
Can anyone help ?
Thanks a bunch !
It's a good idea to use the races that come with the bearings. Are the races in the rotors fully seated and are the rotors fully seated on the spindle?
Thanks fro everybody's help. I ended up measuring the bearings and the rotor and comparing them to specs. Go figure, the rotors were both out of specifications ! Enough to make me think they were boxed wrong. No indications on the rotors themselves as to what model they were.