wheel bearing re-pack.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
From: Florida
wheel bearing re-pack.
With all the time my front wheels spend under the water and in mud, i occassionally take my wheel bearings off the spindles and clean them up and squirt some more grease in there and toss them back on. I usually do this while I'm rotating my tires, since I have them off anyway.
when i put them back on, i tighten the nut just to the point where you can't move the rotor when you grab it and try and move it back and forth, in other words I never over tighten the bearing.
question is, when I go to repack the bearing the next time, before i pull the rotor off the spindle i grab it and try and move it back and forth....and it does have some play in there.
So my question is, am i tightening the nut enough by using that method? is it natural to have a little play in the wheel? Will the little play harm my spindle or just warp the bearing? What do you guys think, anyone knowledgeable in this area?
Oh and Joe, I already checked. And unfortunately it's NOT the voltage regulator
Tom
when i put them back on, i tighten the nut just to the point where you can't move the rotor when you grab it and try and move it back and forth, in other words I never over tighten the bearing.
question is, when I go to repack the bearing the next time, before i pull the rotor off the spindle i grab it and try and move it back and forth....and it does have some play in there.
So my question is, am i tightening the nut enough by using that method? is it natural to have a little play in the wheel? Will the little play harm my spindle or just warp the bearing? What do you guys think, anyone knowledgeable in this area?
Oh and Joe, I already checked. And unfortunately it's NOT the voltage regulator
Tom
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
I'm not exactly knowledgeabel in this area, but i can make a suggestion. Find out what the factory torque specs are, and torque it down with a torque wrench. What's happening (or sounds like its happening) is you are not tightening it down ENOUGH, and the normal road vibrations and all that mumbo jumbo are slightly loosening it. The same should be done with your lugnuts. Overtightening them can kill your studs, and undertightening them will yield loose lugs after some time. A torque wrench can be found cheap online, like 10-20 bucks, check eBay. I was just looking for one yesterday. I know the studs on our trucks are over 100 ft-lbs, i can't remember exactly. It might even be about 140 ft-lbs. But double check with factory specs. (for something of that high torque, like lugs, i suggest only a 1/2-in drive.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
There should be no noticeable play in the bearings. I’ve look around today but could not find any online references to the correct torque. Depending on which direction the movement is in, it could also be caused by tie-rod ends and or ball joints. Both have been know to cause problems for off roaders – especially those with big beefy tires.
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
From: Florida
ok guys, obviously you've never taken your spindles apart and repacked your bearings.
Alright, first off, I know what a torque wrench is ok? funny though, hee hee.
Second, there is nothing to torque. The haynes manual says to turn the nut (very odd shaped nut) only tight enough so that there is no play in the rotor. The nut is covered by a piece of funny shaped aluminum that has holes in it that a pin goes through. The pin keeps the nut from backing itself out or tightening itself more. It's like the cotter pin on the rear tire of a motorcycle.
If you could torque the nut, the specs would probably be 1/2 pound of torque, otherwise you'll smash the bearings into the spindle. You don't torque bearings. Bearing cannot have any pressure on them at all. Just like the steering head of a bicycle or anything else containing bearings.
Its probably normal wear and tear with my big tires and eventually the bearings would need to be replaced. I'm not too concerned about it, i just wanted to get a new thread going and was wondering if anyone had any knowledge of front wheel bearings.
Tom
Alright, first off, I know what a torque wrench is ok? funny though, hee hee.
Second, there is nothing to torque. The haynes manual says to turn the nut (very odd shaped nut) only tight enough so that there is no play in the rotor. The nut is covered by a piece of funny shaped aluminum that has holes in it that a pin goes through. The pin keeps the nut from backing itself out or tightening itself more. It's like the cotter pin on the rear tire of a motorcycle.
If you could torque the nut, the specs would probably be 1/2 pound of torque, otherwise you'll smash the bearings into the spindle. You don't torque bearings. Bearing cannot have any pressure on them at all. Just like the steering head of a bicycle or anything else containing bearings.
Its probably normal wear and tear with my big tires and eventually the bearings would need to be replaced. I'm not too concerned about it, i just wanted to get a new thread going and was wondering if anyone had any knowledge of front wheel bearings.
Tom
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
Have you tried resetting your ECU? just disconnect the battery for a few minutes. I figured you knew what a torque wrench was, i was just saying they were cheap online. Anyhow, you're right! I've never dissasembled my spindle and repacked my bearings. Good luck with everything, tho.
Armand
Armand
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
From: Florida
I know, i was just bustin' on ya that's all, it's what I do best sorry 
My torque wrench got alot of use installing the lift kit. I still crawl underneath and recheck the torque on them once a month.
My torque wrench got alot of use installing the lift kit. I still crawl underneath and recheck the torque on them once a month.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
From: Florida
oh yeah, i forgot to mention, i'm not sure what the torque is for our stock lugnuts but I torque my acorn nuts down on my aftermarket rims at 80lbs. any more than that and the slopped acorn nut will carve or crack the rim.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
Yeah thats SOOO bad dude. I work at Sears Auto Center, and when we torque them down, we use the impact guns, but we use a torque stick inbetween. Depending on the thickness of the torque stick, it translates into lost torque. So we do a final check with torque wrenches, and it SHOULD turn just a bit before the click. I know a few guys who are lazy and just use the next highest torque stick. For instance, on a Honda, it calls for green stick, 80ft-lbs. The lazy mechanics will go yellow stick, which will transfer about 100ft-lbs, so that they don't have to go in and hand torque them. Lazy *******s! Thats why we always have broken studs..... but thats fun, too, breaking a stud off with the impact gun....hehehe
you devil you 
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
When I pack my wheel bearings I use a torque wrench.I pack the bearings and put everything back together.I torque the spindle nut to about 15 ft. lbs and remove any excess grease.Then,while turning the rotor forward,I torque the nut to 35 ft.lbs.I remove anymore excess grease then back the nut off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn,then hand tighten it as much as I can.I put the tire on with a couple of lug nuts tight and grasp the tire top and bottom to check for free play.If there is excess,I re-tourqe the nut,back it off and hand tighten it again.Ive never had to do this more then twice per wheel. 
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Ahhhh, someone who actually repacks their bearings 
Thanks for the input Blue. where did you get the 35 lbs/ft figure from? Just from experience. Why do you press them on first and then back them off and then tighten them again. Do you do this to sort of "pre-crunch" the bearings or something. 35 seems like an awful lot.
Tom
Thanks for the input Blue. where did you get the 35 lbs/ft figure from? Just from experience. Why do you press them on first and then back them off and then tighten them again. Do you do this to sort of "pre-crunch" the bearings or something. 35 seems like an awful lot.
Tom
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: MN.
Tom,
BlueOvalfitter has setting the wheel bearings correct, I don't know the correct torque setting for your year truck.
I drive a 1981 f100 I use a torque wrench to seat the bearing 25 ft lbs
then spin wheel forward reset to 25 ft lbs while spinning , then back off nut 1/4 turn hand tighten, put your lock nut and new cotter key back. you should have no play. Check a little farther , your play may becoming from warn ball joints or king pins depending on your truck model
BlueOvalfitter has setting the wheel bearings correct, I don't know the correct torque setting for your year truck.
I drive a 1981 f100 I use a torque wrench to seat the bearing 25 ft lbs
then spin wheel forward reset to 25 ft lbs while spinning , then back off nut 1/4 turn hand tighten, put your lock nut and new cotter key back. you should have no play. Check a little farther , your play may becoming from warn ball joints or king pins depending on your truck model