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Hey all, I'm sure this forum gets flooded with these posts so I apologize in advance.
2002 Ford E450 7.3 Van cut w/ 230k
With the van body it is a royal pain to get to anything in the engine bay. Watching youtube videos of people working on these with the truck body just makes me angry.
In attempt to get it to start-
Replaced batteries (though perhaps not enough cca?)
Starter with high torque
Fuel filter
Full fuel
Oil Change
Unplugged ICP (connector is oily but made no change)
DTC codes are:
P0113
P1280
P1670
P0470
P1000
Fully topped up the batteries and gave it a go, motor turns over strong with the new starter but isn't trying to fire at all. No smoke.
When cranking:
Voltage ~ 9.5v
ICP ~ steady 2330psi
IPR ~ steady 45%
RPM ~ steady 180rpm
Where to begin? I live in Hawaii so cold isn't the issue, nice warm 75* here. I'm concerned the voltage is dropping too far but not sure.
When you first turn the ignition to the 'on' position you should hear the fuel pump run for about 20 seconds. It is mounted inside the frame right under the driver's seat and is easy to hear. I know what are saying about working on a van...God bless you on your endeavor here. I have heard that vans have a remote fuel bowl drain cable if you can find it and it hasn't been removed. There is a fuel bowl drain tube that drops down the front of the passenger's side on the front of the engine, it's about a 3/8" steel tube. If no remote drain activator you'll have to do some digging and there is a drain valve on the bottom of the bowl on the back of it. Ideally you could connect a fuel hose or vinyl hose to that tube, pull your remote drain, run the pump and see plenty of fuel coming out of the tube.
When you first turn the ignition to the 'on' position you should hear the fuel pump run for about 20 seconds. It is mounted inside the frame right under the driver's seat and is easy to hear. I know what are saying about working on a van...God bless you on your endeavor here. I have heard that vans have a remote fuel bowl drain cable if you can find it and it hasn't been removed. There is a fuel bowl drain tube that drops down the front of the passenger's side on the front of the engine, it's about a 3/8" steel tube. If no remote drain activator you'll have to do some digging and there is a drain valve on the bottom of the bowl on the back of it. Ideally you could connect a fuel hose or vinyl hose to that tube, pull your remote drain, run the pump and see plenty of fuel coming out of the tube.
I'll check the pump, now that you mention where it is I remember seeing it when I was crawling around down there before. The fuel bowl, that is the lower part of where the fuel filter sits correct? That is in the worst place imaginable...I'll have a look around for the drain valve and tube and *hopefully* the remote activator.
What does the voltage need to be? I thought I'd read that 9.5 was enough for all the systems to activate.
Well if it in fact does need to be 10.5 then that's a pretty easy, although not cheap, fix. I'll pick up some high cca batteries today and see how it goes
Batteries I have now are pretty much new but are 650cca each. How high should I be getting? 750? 800? 850?
Well I may be in the same boat myself. I may not be getting a full charge on mine to test my Cyclops remote but the weather has not co-operated much with the charger either.
No luck!
New batteries and it certainly sounds healthier when cranking, batteries only dipped to 10.7v. Unfortunately still no attempt to start, no smoke no fire...