Hi everyone, I'm new here. I just bought last week a 2001 ford ranger 4.0L, 5 speed manual trans., 6 cylinders, 4x4, 4 doors, with 35000 miles. It's a wonderfull truck but lately I've been having problems shifting. When I start the engine and the clutch is all the way in, it's really hard to shift into 1st. If the truck is in 4th gear and you need to stop, you can downshift from 4-3-2-1 with no problem at all, as long as you don´t take your foot off the clutch. I've checked all the fluids and they are ok. Can anyone help me here? any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Pardon my english, I'm from Venezuela (spanish speaking country).

 

Hello eev, welcome to FTE!

Does it get easier to shift after you drive around a little and things warm up?

 

You're English is great, no need for apologies!

Sometimes a manual transmission can be hard to get into first if after you parked the car rolled back or forward a small amount. I had that problem when my parking brake wasn't working very well.

As far as the downshifting, you should be able to push in the clutch, move from 4 to 3, release the clutch, and continue driving or repeat the process from 3 to 2. You will notice the revs go up and the "engine braking" to take effect. You said you can only do it with the clutch always in. What happens if you let it off?

 

Thanks for the repies. It really doesn´t get any easier after driving for some time, and it happens even on level roads. If I let the clutch off to shift into 2 or 3 the same thing happens, I mean I have to jerk around the stick a bit to shift into any other gear. I've read somewhere in this forum about bleeding the system. Do I need to this on my truck? Again thanks for the replies.

 

I have a 96 4x2 ranger 5sp manual.

Same problem. Difficult to get in 1st. While moving it's ok, but once I stop, release the clutch, push in on the clutch and try to put it in 1st...very hard.

I had the lines bleed because I was getting a high clutch pedal. After that, this started to happen (difficult shifting). I had it to 2 places and each one tells me I need a new clutch - cylinder, disc, pressure plate and to be rebled.

They also say it could be transmission. But cannot tell until they take off bell housing. To even determine the problem it would cost me $300, as they have much work to do with this type of problem.

I am hoping it is the clutch as I am having it replaced Monday.

Digger

 

my 98 ranger 2.3 has the same problem. what did you find out digger?

 

I took my 98 in 4 months ago with a similar problem. From a stop it was difficult to put into gear. As long as I was moving it wasn't a problem, with one exception...on long trips at high speeds for an extended time it became hard to shift into any gear. I thought I needed a new clutch, but was told that the slave cylinder was low on fluid. They refilled the slave and it was better...for a while. Then recently, it has become more difficult again. I was told that the slave cylinder is plastic in the newer trucks, so I would think that this is the root of the problem.

 

Hi, if you guys trucks have the mazda 5 speed transmission with the internal slave cylinder then more than likely the slave cylinder is the problem. All these symptoms are very common for the crap slave cylinder in these trannys. Just because it doesnt leak doesnt mean its not bad! The slave cylinder runs about $90 around here. The crappy part, the transmission HAS to be removed to have the slave cylinder replaced. Hope this helps ya. here is a link for a little info - read the info on the Mazda R-1 5-Speed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ManualTransmission.html

 

I had a 1988 Ranger 2.9L 4x4 w/ 5 speed for 200 K miles, until 2000.

It did the same things as described above, after about 65-70 K miles for a year or two. Very hard to get into first while standing still (worst in cold weather) and hard to shift in any gear after a high speed interstate commute home every day, about 25 miles (worst in hot weather).

My clutch was never changed, and never adjusted, nor fluid added nor bled, over 200K.
It appears to me to be a wear characteristic of the syncro rings.
The problem went away with further use and normal wear.

The clutch did not noticeably drag ever.

Changing the trans gear oil will help somewhat, but be sure to use the right weight gear oil.
It originally started for me soon after I got lazy and had a local quick-lube shop change the trans oil for me. I think they used the wrong weight or type, and started the wear.
I had it changed to Ford-spec gear oil, and it was a problem for about another year or two, improving slowly over time until I didn't notice it any longer.

 

Hi all.
PIECE-OF-CRAP SLAVE CYLINDER! I see all of you having a similar situation, along w/ myself, in my 90 Ranger 2.3L w/ the Mazda trany. You would think Ford would get it together and fix this problem that, what I can see, has a problem for years! These are fine trucks! It is going to be a heck of a project for me, even w/ my mechanical abilities, as for you out there w/o a mechanical background, to replace something that we know is going to fail again! We must find a solution, even if it means using a slave cylinder from another make of vehicle that is compatable! This is a matter that many of us small truck owners would benefit from! Open to All replies!

 

Well, I don't have much to add from my original post. Like I said, they wanted to charge me $300 just to find the problem. Could be Syncros could be clutch. They don't know until they take off the bell housing.

Sooo, I am going to go on the advice of mu original mechanic (not ford dealer) and replace the clutch. While he's in there he will check out the syncros. But I beleive the syncros will be ok. This trucks original owner was a young lady who put mainly highway miles on it. So I don't think they are worn.

$900 Canadian to repair. Siggghhhhh

Digger

 

Hey diggbrd;
What I've done for this exact same shifting problem is 2 things: I added DOT3 (as per my Haynes repair manual) to my Clutch Reservoir that goes to my Clutch Master Cylinder; tried adding fluid to Resevoir W/ black cup still in; thought it was a contaminant filter + with vehicle not running, took my rubber inspection grommit out, set my clutch pedal down to the floor (used long ice scraper + my seat pushed forward) + got a can of PB Spray (This Product is Super- Excellant) + SPRAYED ONLY THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER'S SLIDE ACTION / TELESCOPIC AREA, USING A SPRAY NOZZLE AND AIMING IT WELL AWAY FROM THE CLUTCH DISC AREA!! (OIL ON A CLUTCH IS A DEFINATE NO!- NO!) Well...My slave went from a growel to a whine during activation (pushing clutch to floor). This worked for me, it should work for you too! Give it a go + you'll save yourself lots of money + you'll be suprised as hell w/ the results!! ALWAYS DO THE RIGHT THING + YOU CAN'T LOSE!!
_______________________________

The old school moto is: DO WHATEVER IT TAKES!!
The Brain Is Always On The Move!!
________________________________

My Beastie:
90 Ranger 2.3L EFI 2wd Mazda

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by wolfen
[B] Hey diggbrd;
What I've done for this exact same shifting problem is 2 things: I added DOT3 (as per my Haynes repair manual) to my Clutch Reservoir that goes to my Clutch Master Cylinder; tried adding fluid to Resevoir W/ black cup still in; thought it was a contaminant filter + with vehicle not running, took my rubber inspection grommit out, set my clutch pedal down to the floor (used long ice scraper + my seat pushed forward) + got a can of PB Spray (This Product is Super- Excellant) + SPRAYED ONLY THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER'S SLIDE ACTION / TELESCOPIC AREA, USING A SPRAY NOZZLE AND AIMING IT WELL AWAY FROM THE CLUTCH DISC AREA!! (OIL ON A CLUTCH IS A DEFINATE NO!- NO!) Well...My slave went from a growel to a whine during activation (pushing clutch to floor). This worked for me, it should work for you too! Give it a go + you'll save yourself lots of money + you'll be suprised as hell w/ the results!! ALWAYS DO THE RIGHT THING + YOU CAN'T LOSE!!
_______________________________


Thanks for the advice, but I am not that knowledgable with vehicles. I know SOME of the parts and their function and catch on pretty quick, but no real experience and knowledge.

I am concerned that if I do this I will cause myself more money.

Couple of questions though -

What is PB spray?

How does one know if your transmission is about to go? I have 163,000km (101,000 miles) but it is mostly highway driven. I hear a soft clunk when I try to put it in first from underneath the truck.

I think I will just get my mechanic to replace the truck and have it done....

Digger

 

Hey again diggbrd;
1st off: do you own a repair manual or can go to the library to get one for your vehicle? Anyone can become a good mechanic, just give yourself time + confidence, to do whatever it takes to do a job!

2nd: PB spray is a penetrating / lubricant, used mostly for loostening stubborn rusted metal parts.

3rd: The clunk that you are hearing is you having to force your trany into gear because your slave cylinder is not properly doing it's job; seperating the pressure plate; to allow the shifting to happen!

4th: OR...It maybe your universal joints are making the klunking sound during engagement! (I'd go w/ #3 before anything else!)

5th: AND...If your mechanic dosen't fix the problem, what then?
Your at FTE to find answers + you'll find neumerous threads (postings) about many of us being disgruntled at the way things are mishandled at repair shops!
___________________________________________

The old school moto is: DO WHATEVER IT TAKES!!
The Brain Is Always On The Move!!

 

I saw nearly the exact same sort of question you posted in a Popular Mechanics magazine section and the author responded saying that was a classic synchronzer issue. Synchronizers help gears to match speeds with each other so they can mesh. The author said the reason shifting from 5-4-3-2-1 helps is because it helps decelerate the "madly" spining 1st gear. One thing the person asking the question added was that shifting gets MORE DIFFICULT as things warm up.

The truck in question was (at the time) a newer model with not that many miles on it~60k. Yours seems kinda young to be having this synchro problem unless it was abused before you got it. A synchro problem necessitates a rebuild or replacement tranny.

Before you go replacing anything, try changing the tranny lubricant a few times, say 500miles between each interval. Also try bleeding the clutch. There are sometimes specific instructions on how to bleed it so it would help to know what they are when you do it. A repair manual should give you the necessary steps. Hope this helps.