Seagull and wolfen,

Thanks for the help, but I am gonna pass on the manual. I had one for a Cavalier i had and never used it. You see, I always fall into the trap - I try to save money by doing it myself, but I end up screwing something up, or the manual left out somethign or wasn't quite clear and I end up paying more.

Example - I thought my alternator was going a few weeks ago. I was getting a high pitched buzzing noise from the truck. I talked to a guy at work who rebuilds cars and he told me the bearings were going in my alternator. I call around to check out prices, and finally settle on a rebuilt for $200. I buy it and bring the truck in to have it swaped out. The mechanic tells me that it is NOT the bearings but ratehr I need a new drive belt. He replaced the belt, cleaned up the belt pulleys (wheels?) problem went away. I tried to take the alternator back to where I bought it and they won't let me. So now I am stuck with a $200 alternator I cannot return! So much for saving money.

Anyway, lets NOT get into the alternator discussion. Suffice to say that I shoulda have just gotten it fixed in the first place because I have spent $100 getting a second opnion, so I have spent more to save money.

I am worried that I now have a tranny problem AND a clutch problem. My mech tells me it is most likely a clutch and not tranny but cannot tell until he gets in there.

Digger

Ps Anyone want to buy a alternator?....never mounted.

 

Where are you buying your parts? ANY reputable parts store will allow returns of unused or wrong parts. In fact, in every state I've ever lived in, and I'm sure most others, merchants must accept returns by law. You need to bring this to their attention, get your money back and then start buying parts from NAPA or any of the national parts store if you have one close by.

 

This is a local parts store in Nova Scotia Canada.

Good advice though, perhaps I can contact out local BBB and see what develops.

Thanks
Dgr

 

I typically see a sign that says no refund on electrical parts. On the clutch, is there about an inch of free play before you start feeling pressure? If there is too much play, you will have problems shifting.

 

Nope, no signs. I called BBB they said it is up to business to take returns or not. Course she told me this AFTER I paid for it.

Yup, normal amount of freeplay. I checked that already.

We are trying to diagnose a problem over a chat/forum. You have to drive it to be absolutely sure, plus it could be any number of things:

1) I recently had the lines bled. THEN this problem happened - grinding in reverse and difficult to shift in 1st. I had my mech check it out. He rechecked the bleed and said it was ok. He consulted another mech in the same shop and asked his opnion and they both agreed that the clutch needs replacement. I cannot get a clear answer on WHY this did not happen before.

2) Ford dealer said it could be clutch or tranny and wanted to rebleed the lines. Since this was already done and checked, I declined. I assumed that since the previous mech had checked them they were ok. I did not want to rebleed, pay for this and have to go ahead and get the clutch replaced anyway. They also said in order to be sure whther it was a clutch or tranny that they would have to remove the bell housing and tranny and would charge me $300 just to look for a problem. They DID say it FELT like it was the clutch.

3) Although I get some good leads here, nothing is definate. You guys have listed a whole bunch of possibilites and if I get them ALL checked out it and it ends up being the clutch I will have even more $$ to dish out. No offense, but since you guys did not have your actual eyes and hands on this truck...you're guessing at the problem. My mech has driven it, heard the problme, felt the problem and actually looked at my truck. So I think he is in a better position to recommend a solution.

Again, please don't take offence, I am gratefull of your help, but I am wondering if it is some Ford Ranger thing (i.e. they all do this) or if some other problem.

I guess I am asking what a course of action would be on dealing with my mech. What questions should I ask? What should I be wary of? Why can't he TELL what the problem is just by driving it - wouldn't a clutch problem be differant than a tranny problem? What check can I perform to see if it is the clutch or tranny? I guess i want to be sure that it is indeed the clutch, if so fine, but I don't want to pay for unnessesary parts and the same problem happen when I drive it off the lot.

I tried one test another forum member recommended - drive in third gear at about 1200-1500 RPMs. Then stomp on the gas, if the engine revs up and truck does not move it is a clutch problem (similar if you stepped on the gas while truck is in neutral). I tried this and truck did lag abit (apparantly normal) but picked up speed and the same rate of the engine.

This test suggests it is not a clutch problem......

Digger

 

Hey! diggbrd
CHOW IN THIS:
WELCOME TO THE REAL WORLD! SOMETIMES WE HUMANS HAVE GO THROUGH A PROCESS (I'LL BET THAT YOU'VE OF IT) CALLED TRIAL + ERROR? AND SOMETIMES, NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY, YOUR SCREWED!! THIS IS WHY YOU ARE HERE AT FTE; TO FIND THE CORRECT ANSWERS! Case in point: I decided to dismantle inspect + clean my MAF sensor (which had 2 frozen philips screws that I had to dremel; using the cutter wheel, to cut off the stink'in heads) because I wanted to teach myself to it's construction and after bouncing from neumerous threads I decided to proceed because I have a CAN-DO ATTITUDE!!. There are definately 2 elements, (as shown in the MAF cleaning pictorial thread). They are still in an excellant non-calcafied or corroded condition. Still, I cleaned them w/ top-of the line electrical contact cleaner (electronics / electronic cleaner; the fast drying kind that leaves no residues). I'm still getting a intermittant "Check Engine" light on my dash board. I'll be going to the O2 sensor + EEGR assembly next. I know that I should be pulling codes, but this is also a learning process for me and I find it exciting! You'd flip if you knew the extent of ingenuity + creativity that I had to muster to try + complete this "Ranger Project"...and you know what...I'LL NEVER END!!
______________________________________

KAIZEN THE NEW AMERICAN WAY!!!
_______________________________________
The Old School Moto is: DO WHATEVER IT TAKES!!
The Brain Is Always On The Move!!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by wolfen
[B] Hey! diggbrd
CHOW IN THIS:
WELCOME TO THE REAL WORLD! SOMETIMES WE HUMANS HAVE GO THROUGH A PROCESS (I'LL BET THAT YOU'VE OF IT) CALLED TRIAL + ERROR? AND SOMETIMES, NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY, YOUR SCREWED!! THIS IS WHY YOU ARE HERE AT FTE; TO FIND THE CORRECT ANSWERS! Case in point: I decided to dismantle inspect + clean my MAF sensor (which had 2 frozen philips screws that I had to dremel; using the cutter wheel, to cut off the stink'in heads) because I wanted to teach myself to it's construction and after bouncing from neumerous threads I decided to proceed because I have a CAN-DO ATTITUDE!!. There are definately 2 elements, (as shown in the MAF cleaning pictorial thread). They are still in an excellant non-calcafied or corroded condition. Still, I cleaned them w/ top-of the line electrical contact cleaner (electronics / electronic cleaner; the fast drying kind that leaves no residues). I'm still getting a intermittant "Check Engine" light on my dash board. I'll be going to the O2 sensor + EEGR assembly next. I know that I should be pulling codes, but this is also a learning process for me and I find it exciting! You'd flip if you knew the extent of ingenuity + creativity that I had to muster to try + complete this "Ranger Project"...and you know what...I'LL NEVER END!!


Please calm down. I am not so naive that I do not know who the real world works. I did not say I do not have a CAN DO attitude I am just not confident in the workings of an automobile.

It is good that you do try your own repairs and successful. I am wary that I will do some damage to my vehicle and it end up costing me more, which I why I would rather a expert do the repairs. People on this forum have been a great help, but in all honesty, it is just a forum and difficult to diagnose a probelm from afar.



Digger

 

Digger,
If you don't like the replies just go along with your mechanic.
If you want to become more knowlegeable on this problem you should re-read through all these posts carefully and consider every comment thoroughly. Your problem is similar to mine on my 91 4.0 with 5 sp but it has vastly improved by simply changing the tranny fluid. Used Valvoline Durablend. (Notice that a tranny fluid change has been mentioned many times by others in this thread).
Do ALL the simple CHEAP things first.
Also search this forum for other posts, you may get even more helpful information.
BTW, you mentioned that your mechanic said he would check the synchros while he was "in there" for the clutch. Remember that the synchros are inside the tranny and in most clutch replacements they assume they will not have to go to the expense of getting inside the tranny, much less checking components inside. Any mechanic who is not just doing a favor will charge for that extra work. If he is smart and does not want to pull the tranny out twice he will always suggest replacing suspect parts while the tranny is apart.

 

Hi DanZ;
Thank you for your thoughts on this matter!

_____________________________________

KAIZEN: THE NEW AMERICAN WAY!!!
_______________________________________
The Old School Moto is: DO WHATEVER IT TAKES!!
The Brain Is Always On The Move!!

 

I don't blame him for wanting to be as smart as his mechanic so he can avoid extra expenses, but a shop is a business and can find ways to make sure their hours are billed. I have seen many shops do extra little free things for me and I appreciate it and return with more business. It's called customer service.
On the other hand if people are trying to help someone and that person tells them they are wrong, then you tend to deal with that customer differently

 

I would still try bleeding it again but I would do it myself. These are hard to get all the air out. There is a rubber plug that you can pop out and see the slave cylinder operate. I am thinking that it may be possible to make a measurement of how far the cylinder is moving the pressure plate. That way we would have a reference to go by. That would be useful in elimanating master/slave problems.

 

...back to Mike W's inquiry about the freeplay. I noticed mine seems to have a little too much....this is relative to a 94 4.0 which had a very stiff clutch, which I prefer to the sloppy clutch in my 98 3.0L. Is the freeplay caused by the slave cylinder problems, or are there other possible reasons? The mechanic told me my clutch plate is in pretty good condition. My clutch did stiffen up a bit when they filled the slave cylinder, but after a couple months it's right back to where it was.

 

Hi everyone. I took my truck to the shop last week and had the systems bled, the problem remains the same. The mechanic told me that I needed to change the synchro rings. So I went to another shop to get a second opinion and they told me the same thing (need to change the synchro rings). Now my truck is in the shop to get those rings changed. As soon as get my truck back I will let you know how it went. Aside from this, I would like to let you guys know that these forums are for helping each other solve problems not insulting others. Thanks.

 

i've looked inside of a few of these tranny's (mazda ones) and have found this... the main cluster gear meshes into a plastic gear that tends to shred on the very end. this is usually caused by poor lubrication. nobody has mentioned if their shifting problem is accompanied by a noise. but in each case i dealt with the owner complained of a whine noise, in every gear but 4th...(4th is the only direct drive that does not transfer through the cluster) i dont know if that info helps, but drive the vehicle and listen for noise, then see if any noise is still there in fourth gear. if so, you may be looking at a rebuild. also, if your shifting problem has just started, check your fluid for proper ammount, and proper type... the mazda's use atf, should be a healthy pink color. HOPE THIS HELPS!!

 

Howdy! freerangin';
Have you ever had a chance to change the ATF fluid in a 90 Ranger w/ a Mazda? I'll say "It's a real pain in the bung-hole!" If so, how did you do changing yours? When accessing the filler hole, you have have to be a contortionist...never mind trying to get the fluid in the trany, which ends up mostly on the ground (Not scoring any points here w/ the EPA or Hazmat!) OH! YEH! When I went to change mine it was a crappy brown color and thick!