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Rear differential leaking

  #1  
Old 11-28-2018, 11:34 AM
Philly driver
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Rear differential leaking

2009 Ford E350 75k miles
yesterday I noticed that the rear differential is freaking leaking...
Does anybody know if this axle fluid is the correct one for my van?
And do I need to add friction modifier additive?
Genuine Ford Fluid XY-75W140-QL SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant - 1 Quart
Amazon Amazon

Sorry for so many questions is my first time dealing with one of this.
thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 11-28-2018, 04:32 PM
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Yeah that lube will work and you only need friction modifier if your truck has an LS diff.
 
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Philly driver View Post
Sorry for so many questions is my first time dealing with one of this.
thanks!
No apologies necessary---we all learn by asking. Your question and any resulting answers might help another sometime too.
 
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:43 AM
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Thank you guys I hope to get the job done this weekend, so the van is ready to travel during Christmas.
 
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:16 PM
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I went with royal purple, no modifiers needed, not happy there is no gasket available, you have to use sealer.
 
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01 View Post
I went with royal purple, no modifiers needed, not happy there is no gasket available, you have to use sealer.
Yes I find that kind of retarded...
Btw is 30 ft/lbs the correct torque for the bolts?
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:29 PM
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Cover housing bolts: grade 5 - 35, grade 8 - 45, gonna have to read the head of the bolt, but I think a 350 is a grade 8, use lock washers, they work loose it seems.
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01 View Post
Cover housing bolts: grade 5 - 35, grade 8 - 45, gonna have to read the head of the bolt, but I think a 350 is a grade 8, use lock washers, they work loose it seems.
Perfect, thank you.
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:36 PM
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You're welcome, I believe you're supposed to change it every 80,000 miles, takes almost a gallon.
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 09:40 AM
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With those bolts and sealer, no need to torque them to the max. You want an even clamp force, not the maximum. It's just a stamped or plastic cover, not a moving part. I wouldn't torque them over about 25 ft/lbs. Any tighter and you'll just squeeze the sealer out and distort the cover (or crack it if it's plastic)
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 05:07 PM
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That is what the manual says, and you are not supposed to bolt it up when the sealer is wet, proper tightening will not warp it either, it's like bolting a wheel on your vehicle, spread pattern.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by maples01 View Post
That is what the manual says, and you are not supposed to bolt it up when the sealer is wet, proper tightening will not warp it either, it's like bolting a wheel on your vehicle, spread pattern.
Max torque will distort a stamped steel cover and crack a plastic cover. Especially doubling it just because the bolts will handle the torque value. You wouldn't use 45 ft lbs on a valve cover would you ? This is the same thing, same size bolts. It's nothing like bolting on a wheel. Even cured silicone will squish. But go ahead and try it. Let us know how bad it leaks afterwards.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:33 PM
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I finish the job yesterday, it took me almost 3 hours taking my time; those bolts required serious torque to unbolt them, even though I put DW40 for the last 2 days they were there for good... anyway with the breaking bar I did it. At the end I torque them to 40 ft/lbs I hope I didnít over torque them, if the differential start leaking Iíll report back.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:47 PM
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Mine was fine until the bolts started loosening years later, as for valve cover bolts, they aren't grade 8, guess you've never noticed, must have never worked on one or you're one of those that wings things, screw the manual.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01 View Post
Mine was fine until the bolts started loosening years later, as for valve cover bolts, they aren't grade 8, guess you've never noticed, must have never worked on one or you're one of those that wings things, screw the manual.
I can tell you've got limited experience in mechanics here. And the rest of your postings reveal this as well. The limiting factor here isn't the bolts, it's the thin stamped steel cover. Applying maximum force to the bolts on a thin stamped steel part isn't the smart thing to do here. Your bolts loosened up because the gaskets shrunk with age. The cover on these rear ends does nothing but cover a hole. That's why it's made of thin stamped steel or plastic, so please explain to all here why you'd use the maximum torque value for grade 8 bolts on this part ?
 

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