Rear differential leaking
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2018
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Rear differential leaking
2009 Ford E350 75k miles
yesterday I noticed that the rear differential is freaking leaking...
Does anybody know if this axle fluid is the correct one for my van?
And do I need to add friction modifier additive?
Genuine Ford Fluid XY-75W140-QL SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant - 1 Quart
Sorry for so many questions is my first time dealing with one of this.
thanks!
yesterday I noticed that the rear differential is freaking leaking...
Does anybody know if this axle fluid is the correct one for my van?
And do I need to add friction modifier additive?
Genuine Ford Fluid XY-75W140-QL SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant - 1 Quart
Sorry for so many questions is my first time dealing with one of this.
thanks!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,011
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From: Maryville
Cover housing bolts: grade 5 - 35, grade 8 - 45, gonna have to read the head of the bolt, but I think a 350 is a grade 8, use lock washers, they work loose it seems.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
With those bolts and sealer, no need to torque them to the max. You want an even clamp force, not the maximum. It's just a stamped or plastic cover, not a moving part. I wouldn't torque them over about 25 ft/lbs. Any tighter and you'll just squeeze the sealer out and distort the cover (or crack it if it's plastic)
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,011
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From: Maryville
That is what the manual says, and you are not supposed to bolt it up when the sealer is wet, proper tightening will not warp it either, it's like bolting a wheel on your vehicle, spread pattern.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
Max torque will distort a stamped steel cover and crack a plastic cover. Especially doubling it just because the bolts will handle the torque value. You wouldn't use 45 ft lbs on a valve cover would you ? This is the same thing, same size bolts. It's nothing like bolting on a wheel. Even cured silicone will squish. But go ahead and try it. Let us know how bad it leaks afterwards.
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I finish the job yesterday, it took me almost 3 hours taking my time; those bolts required serious torque to unbolt them, even though I put DW40 for the last 2 days they were there for good... anyway with the breaking bar I did it. At the end I torque them to 40 ft/lbs I hope I didn’t over torque them, if the differential start leaking I’ll report back.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,011
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From: Maryville
Mine was fine until the bolts started loosening years later, as for valve cover bolts, they aren't grade 8, guess you've never noticed, must have never worked on one or you're one of those that wings things, screw the manual.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
I can tell you've got limited experience in mechanics here. And the rest of your postings reveal this as well. The limiting factor here isn't the bolts, it's the thin stamped steel cover. Applying maximum force to the bolts on a thin stamped steel part isn't the smart thing to do here. Your bolts loosened up because the gaskets shrunk with age. The cover on these rear ends does nothing but cover a hole. That's why it's made of thin stamped steel or plastic, so please explain to all here why you'd use the maximum torque value for grade 8 bolts on this part ?